nILS

* And the autorouter doesn't do that? Right. * And the autorouter knows which signals are high freq? Right. * As they do on autorouted PCBs. You know how much I gerenally dislike the autorouter, but my main concern in this case is that a newbie start to autorouter having absolutely no idea what the result really is, or should mean to him, and simply assumes it's working and perfectly good as Eagle did it. So I'm pretty sure manually routing the first couple of boards will give a beginner a fairly good idea of how the whole thing comes together. Again the same quote: Agreed. So eagle/kicad beginners: Please figure out how to manually route first, it'll save you from a lot of probems when you possibly start autorouting later on.

Text on the red/top layer should be the right way around. If you write text on the bottom layer and then use "change layer" to put it on the top layer this can happen though. Select the top layer first, then add the text.

You've got the space in your design - why not go with a 40x2? More is better when it comes to visual feedback.

Korrekt. Ist nicht unbedingt nötig aber nett.

IMO a good place to start would be a distro that is not fully featured but simply does work. One that allows me to develop applications (development toolchain, mios studio), get on the net to do some research would do for a start. Once that works, I'd like some music making features added. An out-of-the-box linux that can be run from a USB stick would be just perfect ;-)

Angel please stop opening new threads for every tiny thing you need. Try this link for a change: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?action=search

Angel please stop opening new threads for every tiny thing you need. Try this link for a change: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?action=search

Correct. No. You're looking down on the top side of the board. Um. No :-) Blue = bottom = solder side, red = top = component side. You look at it from the top/component side, hence the blue text, which is on the bottom/solder side is mirrored. There's much more to explore :-) What happens if you (accidentally) plug both in? ~30€ gets you there. And a bit further. edit: I wanted to add something and forgot. D'oh. edit 2: Oh, I remembered - good use of tags, m00dawg :D

I'd like to solve: "Solid Edge 2D Free" http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,11892.msg96614.html#msg96614

I just built a fairly lofi version - printed out 12cm diameter gap thingie (180 evenly spaced gaps), put that between two CDs (removed the metal coating first ;)) and used it with an LED and ptohodiode from an old logitech mouse. Works like a charm. Since I don't have any hardware lying around that I could use to build it into a box, I just stuck the screw that's holding the CDs into a drill :-) Now I can fast forward songs. I can only get the "old" version without the touch sensor to work though. The new one (the Pins 4+5 version) doesn't output anything. I'll have to find out why - this is really fun without it though, too ;D

MIDI Troubleshoot Golden Rule #1: It's the optocoupler

There are people on this forum that offered doing this - just search around a bit. You could setup a file printer (any printer, check "print to file" option) and convert the .ps to .dxf using ps2dxf.exe that is available on the net somewhere.

A couple of things: * don't draw all the +5V, GND connection in the schematic - this just gets confusing. Use the ground and +5V symbols instead. * don't put junctions everywhere. Only use those where they are needed. And that is only where more than 2 lines cross or intersect or touch and need to be connected. * don't use the autorouter. * do use a ground plane (search the forum for that) If you want to you could have a look at the cleaned up version in the attachment. It's basically the same thing, I just removed some stuff from the schem to make it a bit easier to read and routed the board a bit neater (still not good, but a bit better). Maybe you find some of that inspiring. bankstick_nils.zip

I once had the same problem, when I was transmitting patch banks via MidiOx. I think I changed the block size to half of what it was and raised the delay. Just fiddle with the values a bit ;-) No (unless you get someone to do it for you). But you don't really have to do any programming. Just look at the two asm files - they should be virtually identical. Just find the differences, change to what you want it to be - done :D I know this sounds confusing, but it's way better to get into it a bit and try for yourself. You know, for the learning and all. I don't quite understand what you mean by that.

OMG this is the worst case of hardcore advertising ever. Sounds like the guys that want me to change my carrier on a daily basis ;D

You have a CAD background and find it difficult to line things up in FPD? ;D Try this: Right click -> align to grid. What I do a lot is to change the grid to whatever it is I am working on.

Patience is for the weak-willed.

You just need SSSS (Super-Speed-Soldering-Skillzâ„¢). Available at mouser, part # 666-23-42-1337

Deadline arriving so soon... ;D

Spread the love ;)

lol. Hmm, they do get pretty warm, but they shouldn't get "burn your fingers" hot ;)

Correct. I'd rather put them in though. You never know what you'll do with it in the future, or it might even be helpful for debugging. Leaving out parts is most of the time not helpful ;) You can use straight through 2x5 cables.

You want a PIC. And you want the correct one. You've gotten enough hints in the chat to figure out which one that is ;)

Aloa Stefgol und herzlich willkommen! Ja, das ist alles (problemlos) realisierbar. Befolge SLP's Rat und kämpf Dich durch soviel Dokumentation wie möglich, schau dir im "MIDIbox of the Week" Forum ein paar Geräte an - vielleicht ist ja schon was ähnliches dabei ;) Die Roadmap sieht den Alphatest (Übernahme einiger kleiner Inseln im Atlantik) für das 1. Quartal 2009 vor.