nILS

[me=nILS Podewski]sets the needle back.[/me] "Such good doco should really be on the wiki. *scrrrr* should really be on the wiki. *scrrrr* should really be on the wiki."

Nice one Wilba ;-) Red LEDs - way better than the blue ones! edit: For everyone awaiting PCBs or Kits for the mb6582 - be patient, it's so worth it. I actually got to play around with this beauty for a bit and I can honestly say it's the prettiest DIY-anything I've ever seen.

;D

Easiest way to find that out would be to check the datasheet at microchip.com (http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/39761b.pdf). You'll find what you're looking for on page 481 (second to last). Since you figured out it's acronyms - why not look them up? http://www.acronymfinder.com That for instance gives you "Plastic Dual-In-line Package" for PDIP. Then google image search that. Which gives you sth. like this: http://www.lingsen.com.tw/images/pack/PDIP.gif Which is exactly what you want. So that only leaves you with 4 options: PIC18F4685-E/P 40 PDIP -40C to +125C TUBE 8.10 7.91 7.72 7.10 * 6.75 * PIC18F4685-I/P 40 PDIP -40C to +85C TUBE 7.38 7.20 7.02 6.46 * 6.15 * PIC18F4685-I/PREL 40 PDIP -40C to +85C TUBE ** ** ** ** ** PIC18F4685-I/PXXX 40 PDIP -40C to +85C TUBE ** ** ** ** **[/code] What that means is:[code] PIC18F4685-I/P 40 PDIP -40C to +85C TUBE ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ | | | | | | | | | | | '-- how they're packed (in a tube, on a tray...) | | | | '-- temperature rating | | | '-- number of pins | | '-- package | '-- temperature rating '-- Model You don't need the -40 - 125°C one, so just go with the PIC18F4685-I/P :D ...or just order them from SmashTV ;-) edit: hmmm, beaten again. But my answer is longer so it doesn't count ;)

Keeping the same 1A wallwart and switching to a 78S05 will not do any good ;) If the wallwart delivers a max. of 1A it's not gonna get any more by switching to a different voltage regulator.

...which doesn't work well in a live situation ;) Yeah, I've tried all of the above ;) Doesn't make much of a difference though.

Hehe, that's not the point - you are more than welcome to ask questions, just try to find the answer yourself before you post ;)

So einen Taster hatte ich zu Windows 95-Zeiten mal in meinem Schreibtisch eingebaut - als Reset-Button für meinen Rechner ;D

My guess would be that smaudio is in Australia as well -> less shipping if he gets one from the locals :-)

"solution" == workaround ;) Apparently there's a lot of (better) alternatives. But most likely not any cheaper/simpler ones. And that was really the focus of that project. It works well and if you're lucky you can get all the parts for ~6EUR.

I've only tried it with two guitars (les paul copy with humbuckers and fender strat) and it works really well so far. Only problem is the low e-String of the les paul - as the lower strings have a lot more noise and overtones than the higher ones. I'm still tweaking the cap and resistor values for the low-pass filter a bit. It does work, and using a flageolett on the 12th fret of the low e-String "solves" the problem.

Nerd ;D You saw that right away didn't you?

Yes, there is: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/windows_toolchain_quickstart?s=gpasm

Upgrade to 1.9f, try again, tell us what's up ;-)

I second that notion.

Congrats, man! :-) I missed out on an uber-bargain last week because my internet was down. There was an Alesis Nanosynth listed in the wrong category that noone bid on - starting bid was 1€. It got relisted and sold for 120€. Grrr.

Seriously? I'm having more trouble finding red [or orange] ones. Blue ones are in stock at reichelt for example.

And by "crack open" he means "carefully open it trying really, really hard not to break it"

Yes, as a beginner you can make a midibox that has pots, motorfaders, encoders, LCDs, LEDs, joysticks, logic control, etc. You just need to be willing to read, learn, try, fail, read, learn, try again and spend lots of time and cash - being a little crazy helps. Everything will be just fine.

That only leaves you with one option: Go read! Now. Go do it ;D

For digital (read: non-audio) circuits switching PSUs are not a problem.

Did you try doepfer? Somehwhere here: http://www.doepfer.de/zubeh_e.htm

Does he drink the coke afterwards? ;D

Those boards look like they could work really well for prototyping. Nice find! If anyone tries those, let us know what the results are!

As this is directly taken from TK's source code - yes it is true and yes, it is "mirrored" compared to the DIN setup. See: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,8518.msg59674.html#msg59674 DOUT: ; Pin = 0 for the D7 output pin of the shift register ; Pin = 1 for the D6 output pin of the shift register ; ... ; Pin = 7 for the last output pin (D0) of the shift register DIN: ; Pin = 0 for the D0 input pin of the shift register ; Pin = 1 for the D1 input pin of the shift register ; ... ; Pin = 7 for the last input pin (D7) of the shift register edit: Beaten. As usual.