nILS

That would cost how much? $42,000,000?

Awww, come on, how long have you been a midiboxer now? Don't tell me this comes as a surprise :tongue:

Yes. Upgrade to v2 (which does exactly that) or keep uploading the apps to your outdated and unmaintained v1.

No worries ;)

To sorta get around that issue I added a calibration function into my sid player. Basically it measures the time sending the data and preparing it takes ~10k times (using RDTSC) and hopes that the conditions don't change :)

Hey, you were the one who suggested using those two message ;) Keyword: NRPN

The DOGXL come with the added bonus of doing 2bit greyscale :)

One post is enough ;)

If you have a Host that expects FX Ctrl1, your only choice is to send the different pins on different channels. MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(0xb0); // CC at channel corresponging to AIN pin Or use 3 messages, or use the remaining 4 bits in the 2 messages to put in upto 4 bits (max. 16 possibilities). That'll mean unpacking the messages at the host side though.

u16 value = MIOS_AIN_PinGet(pin); u8 lsb = (value & 0x7f); u8 msb = (value >> 7); MIOS_MIDI_BeginStream(); MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(0xb0); // CC at channel 1 MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(12); // CC 12 MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(lsb); // send lsb MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(0xb0); // CC at channel 1 MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(44); // CC 44 MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut(lsb); // send msb MIOS_MIDI_EndStream();[/code] That will send out the 10bits as 2 7bit messages. If you want to scale the value to the full 14bits you could change the first few lines to [code] u16 value = MIOS_AIN_PinGet(pin); u8 lsb = (value << 4) & 0x7f; u8 msb = (value >> 3);

You seem to be having some shorts on your CS pcb. And maybe switched some components on the audio out circuitry that doesn't work, or have a bad solder joint somewhere. No.

There's only 5 knobs! *The* knobs :) Not just any 5 knobs, but the 5 custom knobs. http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_fp.html > look for "http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_fp.htm" The 3rd layered function of those knobs.

http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_b.html (look for "KNoBs menu") + http://svnmios.midibox.org/filedetails.php?repname=svn.mios&path=/trunk/apps/synthesizers/midibox_sid_v2/doc/mbsidv2_parameter_chart.txt = custom knobs :thumbsup:

a) First of all: 32767 == 0x7FFF == 0111 1111 1111 1111b That's 15 bits not 16. Try 65535 == 0xFFFF Make sure the variable you use is unsigned 16bits. b) Show some source :) c) Can you confirm all of the outputs work properly using different set functions?

I am not sure either. I lost my magic crystal ball.

The wire to the front panel won't be necessary if you only run the unit with the panel on and it actually makes connection to the rest of the case. Glad you got it working now!

Most certainly ;) Oof. Is it one of the those? If so: Oof²! Typically those little funny DC connectors are called DC connectors for a reason :) All the metal ones I've come across so far have one of connections being the socket-casing - typically the outer one which (again) typically is ground and hence grounds the case. In your case: Congrats, you have AC on the case :frantics: So whatever you do, don't plug it in again until it's fixed :) 9VAC won't hurt, but it can easily kill all the electronics inside. After careful consideration I'd like to change "isolate" to: "Throw it away and use a plastic one." Unlikely. Yet: At some point attaching the front panel gives you sparks, which means that *something* on the CS is shorted to the panel - if it's ground, all good, if not you need to find the short. Multimeter > Beepmode > find out what's connected to the panel (with wires to the core unconnected) Star wiring seems pretty popular. Run a connection from the core module (J2 or sth that has ground) to the base of the case and fix it to that with a nut, check with the multimeter if the connection is good. Usually you'd now run wires to all parts of the case from that spot. In your case a single wire to the front panel should do, since the rest seems to be connected (to be on the safe side, test with the multimeter and add wires if necessary). Good thing you're working with small voltages then. Before you wire up a tube amp, make sure to ask again ;)

If you have a metal case it should be properly grounded. A metal connector is bad, because there is going to be a potential between the PSU ground and your MIDIbox ground after the rectifier. 0) Remove power. 1) Remove all PCBs and CS 2) Multimeter in beep-mode :) 3) Are all parts of the case connected? If not, connect them. 4) Put the parts back in 5) Isolate the power connector :excl: 6) Is anything else connected to the case? +5V, +9V, anything on the CS, any data line? If so, find out where and eliminate the short. 7) properly connect MIDIbox ground to the case 8) It works now :D edit: To visualize how the potential difference happens import the following into http://falstad.com/circuit/ $ 1 5.0E-6 10.20027730826997 50 5.0 50 v 176 208 176 144 0 0 40.0 5.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 w 176 144 304 144 2 w 176 208 304 208 2 d 304 144 336 176 1 0.805904783 d 304 208 336 176 1 0.805904783 d 272 176 304 144 1 0.805904783 d 272 176 304 208 1 0.805904783 w 272 176 272 288 0 w 272 304 448 304 2 w 336 176 448 176 0 r 448 176 448 288 0 2000.0 g 448 304 448 320 0 x 472 241 525 247 0 24 Load x 130 286 224 292 0 24 Potential w 192 256 192 240 0 w 192 224 176 240 0 w 192 224 208 240 0 w 256 304 240 320 0 w 256 304 240 288 0 w 256 304 192 304 0 w 272 288 272 304 0 w 448 288 448 304 0 w 192 240 192 224 0 [/code]

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