Altitude

So something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820208385&cm_re=sd_card_2gb-_-20-208-385-_-Product will go well? Or are all the bells and whistles going to be a problem

cool, thanks!

the xicon polystyrene caps at mouser will be fine: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/23PS182/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%252b1woXyUXj2Wk4Z3nZoF90BVWr6rvbXU%3d http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/23PW310/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%252b1woXyUXj2XVQGjeabU77qlb6tKBp2s%3d I'll be sourcing mine shortly so keep in touch *edit Actually, those 10 nF xicon are HUGE (10mm diameter) Check these out: http://www.newark.com/lcr-components/fscex-10000pf-1-63v/capacitor-polystyrene-0-01uf-63v/dp/97K0250 Those are used on the oakley TM3030,are 1%, and VERY nice (glad I got a bunch of the radial ones when I built mine, i'll definitely try them in the VCF) One cool thing abut shopping at Newark is that their UK division is Farnell so anything that Farnell carries that isn't available in the US you can order through Newark and have it shipped for a $20 flat fee which is not too bad if you load up on stuff that we cant get domestically

I have absolutely no knowledge of what types of SD cards exist or their differences and I dont see too much info here or on the wiki so can anyone shed some light on what I should be looking for the core32/Seq4? TIA.

Got my livid buttons in and here is some info: Hole size 0.215" (snug on the gauge pin). The conductive part is VERY thin (paper thin) but the action of the button is awesome. Depth of hole: 0.508"

Arrived on Tuesday in Michigan USA

hmm, the three that are in the library look like different sizes.. It's only 8$ to ship it domestically so I'll order one..

SMD is not a big deal at all but I am sure there is a solution to this that would allow through hole parts. The pads on the small buttons are only marginally smaller than the big ones so I dont see why you could not just scale the round contact for the big ones down to accommodate the smaller button. I dont see any point in using the Livid PCBs though. You could design yours exactly how you want it, get a bunch made and end up paying less. If you are going to contact livid, ask if the round and square contacts are interchangeable between the button sizes

Dont their boards already have provisions for either smd or through hole? Or am I missing something. Not sure why the contacts are square for their smaller buttons, if you look at the DXF of the contact for the larger button, it is round like the sparkfun part but the PCB they sell is square like the "small" buttons. The eagle library has both also.

has anyone considered a 8X16 grid? Having to page over 8 steps for a 16 step seq sounds a little tedious but having to page up and down doesn't sound too bad..

man, those 8x8 sheets look nice and for $130, not to painful on the wallet for the big one..

I'm sure there are rapid prototyping places out there that do it by the square inch. There is a place in Colorado here that does in for $2.99 per square inch double sided with silkscreen, solder mask, and so forth. They even have an eagle plugin that had the DRC for their process and a script to make the gerbers. I did up the core32 board from the BRD file that was available before the boards were for sale and it came to $32 for one piece..

I would just take the C64 out of the equation and just build a core and sid board which are all you technically need to test SIDs

perfect! Thanks..

just a follow up: the quick chip works as advertised. Successfully desoldered GM5s without indecent

What is the make/model# of the SD socket? need drawing for panel opening..

1 SID and 1 core wont do anything control surface wise, he will also need DIN and DOUT modules + LCD for the minimal CS. I do agree this is the way to start since it will teach the basic concepts very well that OP will need down the road And the 6582 mainboard definitely fits a C64 case:

I understand what the difference is, but does anyone one have first hand experience with the transflective type?

I'm not sure where to go from there so:

..

Got 4 oz coming in the mail and will report shortly..

The real question is what type of solder did you use? I use organic flux based and that washes off with water. For non-water liking parts, I just use Kester 245 (aka no-clean) and leave it on. Ideally, find something that is made for whatever flux you are using

Yeah, I traced everything back to the clock pins and everything looks right, I'm stumped.

Yep. Nice 16mHz cycles. I even switched the crystal that I know is working with the one on the board that has the problem and the results were the same. Put that crystal back on the 1x1 i took the other one from and it checked out. Very strange, static shock maybe?

Crap. looks like the chip is kaput. Time to buy some quick chip..