SLP

It was the first thing I saw on the conrad main page ;)

yep. Conrad has a special link that says "Link auf diesen Artikel" ("link for this product"). http://www.conrad.de/goto.php?artikel=887210

To pick up the slogan discussion: :)

So fill up your coffee-can and tell us what you're doing now! :)

all the info you need is in the wiki :) -> FAQ

I see you've chosen a on-off button. it will work, but it is not recommended. There are 2 major types of switches: 1. "real" switches: Push them once -> on , push them a second time -> off 2. Push buttons : push them -> on for the time your finger pushes on it, remove your finger -> off Push buttons are recommended for any MB-applications (except for stuff like a power switch), because you can determine the actual behavior of the buttons in the code. So you're much more flexible with push buttons. Another difference is, that there is no direct visual feedback when using a Pushbutton. you need a LED that tells you if the switch in the software is on or off. you can distinguish them the following way: push button: (on)-off switch: on-off the word in brackets means that it is non-latching. sometimes you can also find other types like on-off-on , on-off-(on) etc. matthias

Welcome aboard! Your layout looks very nice! What do you want to control with your midibox? some suggestions: - i'd try to get the cutoff/resonance pots more close together. e.g. try to put then in the lower line, where Ctr 2 and 3 are now. - on some buttons the LEDs are left, on some buttons the LEDs are on the right side. This would confuse me a bit. what about illuminated buttons? e.g. http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8807 matthias

something that is similar to TheProf's proposal is described here: http://www.ulrichradig.de/home/index.php/tipps_tricks/tipp1 Try to get a hollow needle, you can get them in a drugstore. Try to get one which inner diameter matches your Cap-lead. heat the solder a bit and try to slip the needle between the PCB and the lead. Solder usually doesn't connect to the needle as it's made from noble metal. This way you should be able to remove it if the solder is hard to melt. But I doubt that this method will work in your case...

sure... unless there is someone more trustworthy than I am ;D (and I know that there are lots of them ;)) just pm me with the infos.

Awesome! :D Thank you (and Ploytec)!

noja,.. ein Kurzer Blick in die letzten Posts von curve ergaben dass er sich eine mbSID bastelt. 1. 6582 SID MEGA-SALE #7 2. woher PIC18F4685? ;)

hehe ;) It ain't a mirror :D

midibox forum member search puts out "mirv"

yay! Happy Birthday Thorsten! :D

yep. you need to upload the change id application for that: http://ucapps.de/mios_download.html -> Troubleshooting -> change_id_v1_9e.zip This program allows you to change the ID header without reburning the chip --- use this program with care and read the informations given in README.txt!

I think you probably won't tell me that, but the thing that interests me the most is, where are all the SIDs from? I've got that picture of that decayed factory and a ruinous storage building with some old and never used MOS/CSG-chips noone cares about... It's got that little cryptic touch...

hi, welcome aboard. First possibility: if you manage to find a fitting jack, you can ready the signal out, decode it with the PIC and output midi messages. this is pretty comlex, you'd want to go for the Second possibility: gut it. open the case and connect the Buttons to the DIN. -> http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/ (<- Important!!)

I just kidding, but as you're mentioning it: ... and I've got pretty small ears... ;D

You're too slow, nILS ;D edit: check if one or more of the copper traces are damaged

you're da best ;) LabelWhore: resolder every solder connection on the broken SID-Pcb. heat it up fot at least 3 seconds, but take care of transistor. let it cool down first before you resolder the other pins. caps and resistors are not that critical. Often there are so called cold solder points. This means that you didn't heat the component-lead up long enough while soldering and there is no proper connection between the solder-pad on the pcb and the component lead. edit: where have you bought the PCBs?

;)

Did you solder your Core-SID connections or do you use detachable connectors? If you didn't solder it, try to swap your SID-PCBs, perhaps you connected your right SID-pbc wrong. could you put a photo of your wiring and the PCBs online? What PSU do you use? try to compare the current consumption of your 2 SID-Pcbs on the +5V and on the +12V line.

moooment! Dir ist schon klar dass dir das GM5 modul 5 Midi I/Os zur verfügung stellt, und nur einen Bruchteil eines vergleichbaren kommerziellen MIDI-Interfaces kostet? ;)

1. upload the testtone application. still the same issue? if yes, goto 2 2. swap your SID-chips, run the testtone app again. -Still no sound from right channel? goto 3a -The right channel works, but the left channel doesn't? goto 3b 3a. check the right SID-PCB: are all components on the right place? polarisation of the components ok? soldering all fine? wiring to the Core ok? Voltages all fine? 3b. Probably your SID-chip is damaged. This is nothing uncommon with the 6581. these are often defective. I'd suggest you to use 8581 or Wilbas 6582. regards matthias

nope, das passt schon. Writeable -> Beschreibbar -> output Readable -> Lesbar -> input