julienvoirin

forget all of this the Graal is called "MB Link" : direct out of a midibox based keybaord to the MB6582 in (just one wire). your Cubase connect to the In of the keyboard, the keyboard act like a merger, sending the cubase notes to the MB6582. When you play notes on the midibx keybaord, the MB6582 let them go out from its OUT (MB6582 is also a merger, only for midi data created by midiboxes). Keyboard needs ID4 for MIOS and appli updates. I did this machine for somebody and certify it is working. I don't have the code here, it's on my G5. I will give more hints when i am back home. Seriously, TK is a genius :P

not the sasa x0x but the Julien's x0xWASP a custom model based on the Ladyada PCB 8) DSCI0144.JPG DSCI0145.JPG DSCI0144.JPG DSCI0145.JPG

my stock x0x works with a AC adapter : 7V (8,9peak) 320 mA.

you talk about "switching PSU" ? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply you don't need that stuff ! Sasha is right, the best is to get a very basic 9V DC supply, already prepared to plug in the wall, opening it, removing the diodes and the capacitor used to transform the AC in DC, and directly connecting the wire to the power jack for the x0xb0x.

lexan paper isn't it ? beautiful 8)

whaou ! cool ! i've been approved without knowing :P

i don't think. IMO they used the technique of the hidden screws (screw hole inside the enclosure, not outside). Schaeffer does it.There is no stickers as he spoke about silkscreen. If you look good the panel , you will notice a shinny aspect. it can't b achieve by stickers. cheers

yeah Sasa, very Ferrari ;) btw : http://www.socialentropy.com/bassline

Does anyone know how to code "read the value of J5 pin0 at the start up of the midibox" ? the goal is to read the pot value without having to move it

it isn't for drinking LOL !! it is avalaible at your local store, next the ladder and the screwdrivers

after that you can install the FTDI driver and upload SokkOS using c0ntrol Win 1.0 of ladyada :) another solution would be to directly burn the firmware using an ISP adapter (like the one of BSD) on the x0xb0x. i did not try it. the advantage is the supply brought by the x0xb0x itself, and the resonator, already installed. To think ...

Here is the complete method to burn the x0x firmware (less than 2 euros method) : 1 - you need a PC Windows with avrdude installed (winavr does install it) 2 - you need a LPT printer port on the PC. This will be the programming port ; it is the cheapest way and the easiest too. Enable the LPT as a programmer by installing gpio. I only have Macs so I went to a friend and used his computer 3 - now you make a programmer on a breadboard, following this idea http://www.scienceprog.com/simplest-128-atmega-programmer/. but we will do a BSD which is natively supported by avrdude : http://www.bsdhome.com/avrdude/ Miso of LPT goes to MISO of ATmega162 and so on. Put 220 ohms or 1 Kohm resistors before attacking the AVR. it will prevent eventually electric disaster (cheap and efficient solution) 4 - add a resonator of 16 Mhz (the one of the x0xb0x, recycle ! ) to your programmer in order to burn high and external "fuses" 5- make this supply and supply 5V to the AVR using a 100nF bypass capacitor : http://www.ladyada.net/library/equipt/diypsupp.html 6- enter DOS (cmd) and type : Achtung ! : x0xb0x_full.hex must be on your desktop (= bureau) it is possible that it doesn't work at the 1st time. I had problem of supply, furnishing 4,65V instead of 5 V, so i had to reburn it 3 times. gpio.zip x0xb0x_full.hex gpio.zip x0xb0x_full.hex

that's effectivly what you are supposed to do according to friends specialised in plastic (they ve got a factory). They also told me "ABS is the shit ! (to paint) i wanted to do the same, but find a guy who's OK to do that for a few bucks ... no way. Moreover, the ABS used in the "parechoc" (shield in english if i well remember, it is not a word you use everyday) is not the same as in the Pactec. "Shield paint will not grab on the pactec" told the guy in the garage So Tamiya is the best deal for me. it costs 15 € of paint. if you spray at 20-25 cm it is ok, it will be perfect. It was the 1st time was doing it. Be sure to be as constant as posbile in the movement and don't hesitate to spray out of the case on the card board. PS : spray outdoor : the solvent is deadly ! really, no way to breath next to.

i suggest you the Tamiya paint for Lexan (PS Serie). You need 250 mL to make a super good jobWatch out painting ABS is a real pain with classic paint, but the one for Lexan is very fitting. Don't forget to degrease ("unfat") the Pactec before spraying (with 90° alcohol) tamiya.JPG tamiya.JPG

both sound the same, the 6110 gives you 3dB more level (i tested 6 months ago with a TUNED x0x)something good to do is sorting 2SA733p in order to keep those with hfe>340. the "how to build the x0x" of Ladyada follows the same indicating points than Roland. And be sure there is not a lot to tune in the x0x : oscillator (TM5 give high range, TM4 low range - or the contrary i don't remember), résonance (TM3), and first : the supply (5,333v)making the little variable supply as advised by ladyada is very useful. it is low cost and will help you to tune the x0x, and thus, it can be reused latter for other thing :p what is interested in the Roland manual is the drawing with the value in milliseconds, you don't have to take your calculator to calculate the period of the second wave (2ms +/-0,5)! Search for "303 schematic" in Google images :) http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=C-4kHg4igx0

the best technique is TO NOT SOLDER those tact switch until you are sure that your xox is finished. These switches have enough strength to fit without solder (think to the maintenance) if it is your 1st x0x you have to do such. If it is not you can solder things as on a whole kit : first smaller (diodes ...) then resistors, trimmer, condos ... and last the ICs, after you have verified that the Volts are corrects. I did it on a bunch of 3 x0x and they work ! it goes faster too. the best is a real oscillospcope and your ears. finally make a A/B test versus a real TB. Roland Service Manual is very well documented to tune the x0x by the way

tu mets pas la bonne appli ; c'est ça qu'il te faut : ain64_din128_dout128_v2b.zip MIOS configured for 64 pots, 128 buttons, 128 LEDs - don't forget: all unused analog inputs must be clamped to ground! t'edites le mios_tables.inc pour lui dire qu'il y a un encodeur et fini. je vais pas te faire le programme mais en lisant un peu de ça http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9666.0.htmltu auras les morceaux de code nécessaire

; Datawheel for menu navigation/data entry connected or not? ; A datawheel can replace the left/right buttons! ; if -1: datawheel not connected ; if >= 0: encoder number assigned to datawheel function ; don't forget to check the pins of the datawheel in MIOS_ENC_PIN_TABLE (-> mios_tables.inc or setup_*.asm) ; it has to be connected to pin 4 and 5 by default #define DEFAULT_ENC_DATAWHEEL -1 ; ; DIN pin numbers of menu buttons #if DEFAULT_ENC_DATAWHEEL == -1 #define DEFAULT_DIN_MENU_EXEC 7 ; menu exec button assigned to DIN pin #7 #define DEFAULT_DIN_MENU_RIGHT 6 ; menu right button assigned to DIN pin #6 #define DEFAULT_DIN_MENU_LEFT 5 ; menu left button assigned to DIN pin #5 #define DEFAULT_DIN_MENU_SNAPSHOT 4 ; menu snapshot button assigned to DIN pin #4 #else #define DEFAULT_DIN_MENU_EXEC 7 ; menu exec button assigned to DIN pin #7 #define DEFAULT_DIN_MENU_SNAPSHOT 6 ; menu snapshot button assigned to DIN pin #4 #define DEFAULT_DIN_MENU_RIGHT 5 ; NOT USED - overlayed by datawheel #define DEFAULT_DIN_MENU_LEFT 4 ; NOT USED - overlayed by datawheel #endif dans main.asm l'encodeur est une molette de navigation (ça remplace les boutons +/-) Bon, tu as une bonne piste pour commencer

Alors ce matin j'ai été à Electronic Diffusion et ce sont DES VOLEURS. Un double transistor japonais qui coutait 3 euros il y a 2 mois coûte désormais 9 euros. Le prix catalogue indique 3 euros, et comme il en fallait 6 pour faire 2 x0xb0x, je vous laisse calculer ... leur CGV sont du foutage de gueule pur et simple. Moi je n'y remet plus les pieds. j'avais commandé par téléphone sans demander REconfirmation du prix. Imaginez votre tête si le steack coute 10 euros demain.

avec une dremel ou une scie sauteuse et une planche latérale tenant pas des serre-joints qui sert de guide. Sinon y a la lime :/

enfin un truc coton sur le forum français ! t'as défini quoi comme baudrate de port série ? faut 31250 bps si mes souvenir son justes.

oui ça a l'air d'être ça. pourquoi t'achetes pas chez voti ? ils sont tres bien ses encodeurs (et pas chers !), le port est raisonnable et il te livre en 5 jours. TK achete chez lui (on voit les radins ... comme moi) j'en ai sur mon Novation KS4 et ma x0xb0x. c'est standard et ça tient si t'es pas un mega bourrin. prévoit d'en avoir d'avance et de les changer au besoin (plusieurs années) alors on lit la fiche technique, on regarde le dessin et ... "taper A" ça veut log normal (car y a l'antilog en C), chose que tu aurais pu déduire de la courbe (qui n'est pas linéaire, et assez proche d'une courbe log). Elle est pas mal ta boite, les pads sont sensibles à la vélocité ?

yeah cool ! thanks a lot :) i don't understand "lucky dip" but it seems a good thing

dear Prof, did you invoice us ?? i received nothing about paypal regards

waouh ! ça claque ! vous avez bien bossé :) la muscladance c'est énorme XD