ultra

how can one justify selling someone else's ideas? especially when the person whose ideas they are says no? it simply should stop at that.

is it also possible to have four rows of buttons so on/off for each track is directly accessible? and if so, does the lcd automatically respond to the track being edited? so that it will show the parameters of row 3 automatically if i edit a step in that row.

check ucapps.de. all the questions you're asking are answered in there. the .pdf files on ucapps explain what the lcd pinout of the core is. you also should check the data sheet for the lcd you ordered and see if the pins match. if not, you'll have to make the proper connections. yes the lcd plugs directly into the core module. it's just a matter of making sure the connections are proper. the polarity of the power to the core doesn't matter, as explained on ucapps.de. you can even test it on a 9 volt battery if you want, as long as you don't hook up the lcd backlight (there probably won't be enough power). i used a 9v to test my lcd at first and also to check voltages on the core (which is the first thing you should do after assembling it, info for that is on ucapps as well). your first steps are to assemble the core, check voltages, and then get the lcd working and the information to do these things are very well documented.

ribbon cable and connectors are dirt cheap at futurlec, so yeah i'd buy extra. they have the rainbow stuff available at smashtv's site. a couple things about futurlec: they take a long time to ship and their customer service dept is non-existent. but you will get your parts and what i've ordered has been decent quality. i've found the negatives about them to be still worth the price.

don't you need AIN modules if you're going to use pots? i guess i don't know because i'm building a seq that uses DIN and DOUT modules. as someone who is also new to electronics and building a seq, i can offer you a few recommendations to get you started. take it a single step at a time. the seq project seemed overwhelming to me but by thinking in smaller steps, things have been working out. the easiest thing to do is get a core kit w/pre-programmed PIC. that way you'll already have the correct parts and a quality pcb. to me it was well worth avoiding the hassle of finding the parts and making a pcb. first, build the core, check your voltages, and then get your lcd working. the information for both of these is on ucapps. carefully check the pinouts of the lcd and core. i think most lcds are not a 1:1 connection. for the seq, i used 2 2x40 lcds. i bought ribbon cable and the proper connectors (very easy to assemble) from futurlec.com but they're also on smashtv's site. then i cut the cables, toned (continuity checker on your meter), and soldered the proper connections. i used electrical tape but heat shrink tubing would be more professional i guess. when you have your lcd working, you'll know it by the word "ready" on the screen. i chose to not even think about buttons and encoders until i got to this point. the additional modules you buy will depend on your layout. i've seen ableton live controller concepts around the forum so search if you need some ideas. you can design a visual layout using the free front panel designer software. the additional module kits you buy (and of course pots, buttons, etc) depends on what's all on your layout. once you have something you want, you can tally up the totals and then ask if it's possible to use your combination of controls. saying "64 knobs and 64 buttons" doesn't sound like a controller built for live (you need clip selection buttons, perhaps a crossfader, etc) so i'd make a specific layout to get your numbers exact. hope this helps!

if i build a v2 for now, will i need to change any of the hardware to go to v3? i didn't think i would, but i'm asking because of some differences between yours and thorsten's .fpd. besides using the word "mixer" instead of "view" (btw what's the difference?), you've added four group buttons. should i be taking these into account for future use or are they a hardware option? also you have four rows of leds for the tracks instead of 1. is this also exclusive to v3? thanks and nice layout.

welcome to the forum. sorry i can't answer your sid related questions, but as someone who is new to electronics and is building a seq, i can tell you that the kits and documentation are all very well done. also the help given by this community is outstanding. have fun!

i am looking for buying that specific encoder as well (EC12E2420802). it is optional pcb mount, right?

would this case work for a seq? http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=AC-433virtualkey56310000virtualkey563-AC-433 i've never built one before so it's hard to know what to expect. i'm using thorsten's fpd design on the midibox seq v2 page (slightly modified for no rack mount). i'm just not sure if the type of screw holes on this case would work. i'm sure 3" is deep enough. as far as using veroboard to mount the components just under the panel, do most people build some kind of custom frame for this and mount the boards on top? or perhaps large standoffs of some kind with long screws? thanks!

makes sense, thanks. i guess the search continues!

would the series 57 mini vandal at this page (http://www.itwasia.com.tw/e-switch.htm#3) be good buttons for the sequencer? i figure since they have with and without led models, you could have matching buttons for navigation and buttons that light up for the sequencer section. has anybody tried these? too small?

this is great info, thanks. is there a specific model of case that people have been successful in using for the sequencer? i've searched around on the forum for this using many different terms but i've found nothing. i'm looking for a sloped desktop design and rack mount is for sure something i won't do. i have no problem with designing my own front panel and i'd probably base it off the one available at ucapps. i suppose using veroboard i can more easily attach a ribbon cable to the modules and then solder those ends to where i want them on the board. i'll give it a shot setting it up this way. it seems most people do not panel mount and i guess there must be a reason for it. i'll search the forums more thoroghly on this as i'm sure there's plenty of information posted.

i have my lcds working, i think. the first lcd gives me the mios version and creator, and then says "ready". the second gives me black blocks on the top row (these are 2x40 lcds). is this correct? if not, it could be because i'm actually hooking up one at a time because i have to desolder the header pins off of the second lcd yet (they're the bg micro ones) and put on longer ones and i haven't gotten to that yet. how do i go about testing buttons? should i hook them all up and just see if it works, or wire in a single momentary switch to one of the pins? is there a certain pin that can be used as a test with any momentary switch? what are some of the easier case designs people can suggest? to me, using veroboard and mounting everything just under where the panel will be sounds like a nightmare, and i think i'm going to panel mount everything, although i don't know how that would work out for the lcds. i'd like to get some kind of standard case that i can have a panel made for. really i'm not looking for anything too pretty and i just want a working sequencer in a sturdy case. can anybody help with suggestions? i'm not that experienced with manufacturing this sort of thing and i don't have a variety of tools for it either. thanks!

which if these would be appropriate for the midibox seq? if i get a panel made, how do you know that your measurements will precisely fit the case, including the screw holes to mount it?

all the dyslexic people i know have one thing in common: they're creative and intelligent enough to do this sort of thing.

well my er-1, which was the first released, was terrible quality. but i have a newer esx sampler and the build quality is very good. can you give me the part number of the right alps encoders to get for a seq? i don't know much about them so i don't know what to get.

i think even my korg esx doesn't like it when i turn the data wheel very fast. and i swear my old electribe-r or some other piece of gear i used to have would actually jump backward.

the bgmicro 2x40's are $5 apiece :).

is this just on one or did you wire up a lot of them and get the same results? sounds like a faulty encoder or that something is just wrong.

what a great bunch of gear (except for that mac). :P

i am in the stage where i'm about to buy encoders for my seq. what don't you like about the encoders made by bourns? what do i even look for when buying encoders? does anybody have part numbers at good prices that they recommend?

i'm also building a seq and i had the same concern, but i think you can always upgrade the software and pic later on. you need 3 din modules, a dout module, and a core. i think along with new software and pic, you'll also need an additional module for v3. to me, it wasn't worth waiting until it's final because a lot of it is the same and i want the thing asap :). you can also add the led matrix later on as well. someone please correct me if i'm wrong, but this is my understanding of v2-v3. i highly doubt that everybody who built a v2 seq is going to have to rebuild it with all new hardware if they want v3.

thank you, i will try these things. what would be a good temperature to set the threshold at?

i think i found an organized solution to connecting everything. for anything that is not a 1:1 connection, i'll run a straight 1:1 cable from the core or each module to a grid style pc board, make the connections that need to be changed on the board, and the run them out from another 1:1 cable to wherever they need to go. it's probably more expensive for the extra parts but having all the non 1:1 connections right there in front of me will probably save me on buying headache medication. has anybody tried this? smashtv's site doesn't give part numbers. does anybody have the numbers for the plugs and encoders?

thanks that 555 circuit works great. i discussed this circuit on irc with someone and changed the resistor and capacitor values based on what i had laying around. also, this works without the zener diode.