/tilted/

hiya. Sorry if I've missed something, but from what i have seen, it looks like you have a wire missing. So... if you are set up like this: [tt] Trafo | PCB | |Synth (9v tap)---------|*- -9v out*|---------|* (9v tap)---------|*- -0v out*|---------|* (5v tap)---------|*- -5v out*|---------|* [/tt] Then you are missing a connection. If the transformer is a single unit, providing 9v-0-9v with a 5v tap, ie: 9v-5v-0-9v or 9v-0-5v-9v, then you'll need to connect your center tap (0) to GND on the PCB. If you have two transformers, one 18v CT (9v-0-9v) and one 5v (5v-0), then you need to connect BOTH 0v taps to GND on the PCB. Without this connection, the PSU will still work, but will be somewhat unstable, as the ground reference is 'floating', and is dependant on load taken by the 9v side. It should be relatively stable, since the load on the 9v-0-9v side is inherently symmetrical in this design. I think this *might* go some way toward explaining your symptoms. EDIT: PS: Only make this connection if my impression of your PSU setup is accurate, and the connection is not already there. Making this connection if not needed may void your warranty, steal your car keys, burn your house down... etc. /tilted/ takes no responsibility for explosions or chip fatalities... etc.

6 wraps? That's a lot of paper...

I was just about to suggest the 5v line, rather than the 12v line, as this supply is common to the sid and the LCD. Looks like I don't need to make that suggestion. and yet, I did.

The dude is crazy. I love it. I especially love the bit where, rather than be boring and transfer basic ROM things like the character set and keyboard driver from a built computer, he built a bit-by-bit switch setup, allowing him to enter these by selecting the address line, and entering the data, all using switches. Hardcore. this guy is seriously my new hero.

Very nice work. Well done.

The project itself is not so intensive that it needs the STM32 to run, but running it on an STM affords all the usual advantages of a faster, higher density processor. (in this case, more matrix crosspoint chips can be updated in a given time, and more chips can be addressed (easily) in the first place)

This is a good point actually. The tech involved in actually getting this to work is pretty cool. Even if ultimately all they've done is make a reverse Karaoke machine...

Sorry cimo, can't help with the manual, but maybe I can help with diagnosis? tell me where it hurts... The unit seems to be a cross between a looper delay and a multitrack recorder. I'd suggest there would be a lot of repetition in there, maybe you can analyse a repeated section to find what resistor you need?

*/tilted/ challenges all to a round of Ecky thump.

What a horrible thing to do to a man with a hangover. MS licks cocks, and gives a critique on the flavour.

Actually, the English language comes from West Germanic, as do German and Dutch. Hence the English languange has a lot more in common with German than it does with say, Celtic or Welsh.

You don't need 16 analogue outs to get 16 steps. You need 16 analogue outs if you need 16 discrete control voltages...

Hmmm... a Northcote-ite... someone who shares my tram... */tilted/ looks around suspiciously...* I noticed you like "In C" - have you ever heard the "re-sound" version?

Possibly unrelated to layout, but in the tabs at the top: "Ucapps" - Home of the the projects... This is an old perception test. Most people read so quickly, that they'll never notice the double word in that configuration.

I likey very much. Thanks Twinny. Much better for reading in the dark.

... perhaps you need to get a mac-compatible soldering iron? perhaps the iron you have only works with PCs... :P

Too big? Not possible!! BTW, the opto is only required/possible on an input, not on an output (same as MIDI).

Having tried both, I'd suggest an incremental (trackpad/trackball) type control for pan and tilt, rather than a joystick. If you have a moving mirror type unit, the joystick can work well, since the mirror's range of motion is typically less than 180 degrees in either axis. Movement of the joystick stick can then directly match the mirror (especially with some of the really quick mirror units...) If you have a moving head unit, most of these have around 270 degrees for tilt, and 540 degrees for pan. This can be very confusing and difficult to control using a joystick, as the same physical lamp position can be found at several joystick positions. Using an incremental control also works well when moving groups of fixtures together.

I have found that the casing is usually the most expensive part of a build. I've spent around AU$600 on panels for my LC, and still have several more to get! If it's any consolation, the lighting console I use at work is valued at around $50,000 (or at least, it was when it was new)... And it DOESN'T do MIDI to DMX!! It does MSC, but only as the main controller. It can take ONE MIDI command and use it to trigger a console command, which can then be used to run a lighting cue, but that's about it. Edit: Good news about the improved timing...

If you are having time out/reset issues, try shortening the break. 128uS may be a little long. The minimum in the spec is 88uS (which is intended to be 22 clock cycles, but since the end equipment is usually checking for this as a minimum, perhaps try 100 - 120uS. The convention is to make this break a multiple of 4uS, but I'm not sure that you need to. Mark After Break should be fine at 12uS. Good luck!

Nice work phil!

Off hand I can't recall the specific model designations, but beware of suffix letters attached to (especially transistor) model numbers. Sometimes you'll get something like "BC337" and "BC337A" or "BC337-D", and they might have different pinouts, for some reason... It could also be that you have a mis-labeled of even counterfeit transistor (which isn't really much of an issue in this application).

It's one of the weird things about transistors. CBE is about as likely as EBC. then there are the flat packs, which are more often BCE... Here's a kinda useful link: http://hamradio.lakki.iki.fi/new/Datasheets/transistor_pinouts/

could it be: different pinout for adjustment pot? different pinout for BC337

I actually meant the make of the core board, as in: did you make the board, or buy a ready-made board and assemble it. Also, I meant the model of LCD, but this is less relevant... they should all work. Triple check for any wiring errors or shorts... sorry, not much else I can recommend. Any chance of photographs??