phunk

if you open it up, you would get the information needed. If you dont want to open it up for whatsoever reasons, you have to give it to a prof. repair center anyway. ;) i found this btw: http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/37870-mackie-hui-schematics.html

sounds like bad solder joints. If so, resoldering is the only option. Other option would be a loose cable to the dins... Depends on the SIDs used. "moves in steps" = detended. Behaviour depends on the encoder used. There are differences in the number of steps hardwarewise. picture is so bad i cant recognize what you mean. Normally there is no wrong way of soldering audio jacks with a pre made pcb...they would not work. Ordering a wrong panel could be a reason though...

You cannot drive them with 12V directly but as you suggested with a resitor in series that regulates voltage and current. The forward voltage for this type of LEDs is 3.5V according to the datasheet. Current is 120mA. That means: R = (Vin-Vled)/Iled = (12V-3.5V)/0.12A = 62,5Ohm. BUT... the Problem you face now is that you cannot use a standard 1/4 Watt resistor, since it would melt away due to its power rating. P= (I^2)xR = (0,12A^2)x62,5Ohm = 0,9Watt. Using a pot in series would be an option and convenient for adjusting the backlight...same problem with power though. You gotta calculate that.

Ich häng mich mal hier dran. Gibt es da einen Weg unter OSX die Port Namen zu ändern?

:frantics: :frantics: yeah!

Hi, what you need are two center tapped transformers that can drive the 7805/7905 and 7812/7912 voltage regulators which supply a bipolar voltage to the circuit. They should have enough headroom for fluctuations in the grid and the voltage drops over the diodes and regulators but shouldnt exceed a certain voltage since the voltage difference at the regulators will be "burned" by the them and dissipated as heat. Calculation: Utransformer=(((Uout+Uregulatordrop/20%_Ripple)+Udiodedrop)/(Urms*GridFluctuation_in%) Utransformer 7805/7905 =(((5+2.5V)/0.8)+2V)/(1.414*0.9)= 8,963V --> common value: 9Volt Utransformer 7812/7912 =(((12+2.5V)/0.8)+2V)/(1.414*0.9)=15,8V --> common value: 18V That means a 230V primary / 2x9V secondary transformer for the 7805/7905 and a 230V primary / 2x18V secondary transformer for the 7812/7912 should do the job. I dont know how much current the cheetah needs but i assume less then 1A. To be safe i´d look for 10-15VA transformers...

i´d called it desperate... ROFL!

so it is done? :frantics:

Moin, Sehr gut. Da Du einen Controller brauchst, wäre die MB64 oder MB64e die richtige Grundlage. Jepp, wieviele genau, musst Du Dir anlesen. ucapps.de hat alle Infos. :frantics: Auch das geht. Die MB Hardware läuft auf PIC Basis, bzw. neuerdings auf Basis des STM32 von Microchip. Die Entwicklung läuft mit C bzw. für die PICs auch mit Assembler. Die bereits umgesetzten Firmwares lassen sich aber auch ohne Assembler-Kenntnisse anpassen. Auch hier gilt: Lesen (Stichwort MIOS und Firmware). Have Fun :sorcerer:

Wow..RaveTZ... is that the smoke painted collectors model? And such a lovely presentation...hi res pics are always a strong sales argument. god damn... if i´d only have the money for this very rare item...must be a once in a lifetime opportunity... highly appreciated you sell the best of the best to the MB community... even of your personal collection... i wonder what other treasures you have...

DHL meldet sich mit Sicherheit nicht. Wenn, dann meldet sich der Zoll. Die Zollfreigrenze für - auf postalischem Weg versendete Waren aus einem Drittland - liegt bei 150 Euro. Davon ist die Einfuhrumsatzsteuer aber ausgeschlossen, hier liegt die Freigrenze bei 22 Euro. Da die Bemessungsgrundlage auf Basis des Warenwertes und der Versandkosten ermittelt wird, wirst Du mit knapp 165 Euro für den sammichSID über der Zoll- und auch über der Einfuhrumsatzsteuerfreigrenze liegen. Bei der derzeitigen "Kontrollwut" des dt. Staatsapparats wirst Du also mit hoher Wahrscheinlichkeit einen Zollsatz auf elektronische Bauteile und die Einfuhrumsatzsteuer auf die Zwischensumme bezahlen müssen. Ersterer liegt - je nach Kategorisierung durch den Zöllner- irgendwo bei 3-5%, letztere bei derzeit 19%. Macht insgesamt: 165*1,03*1,19=202,24€ für den sammichSID. Bei viel Glück geht´s einfach so durch. ;)

sold

Very good, SmashTV. Highly appreciated! ;) Thx for offering that option.

Hey guys, that´s normally not the place to sell this kind of stuff but i just offer it here before it goes to eBay. I am selling my Digital Multimeter. It´s a VC860 purchased at Conrad. It looks very newish, has some very slight signs of use (at the bottom pins of the rigid rubber body) and works just fine. It´s a True RMS MM and more or less the conrad top model. Included is the bag, the mm, the manual, the temperature sensor and the test prods. I´d say 50% off the actual Conrad price. That´s 70 Euros. Shipping within Europe, Germany prefered though. Paypal please :-) If you´re interested you´ll find me in the chat or around here. Thx Alex

1) do you use a stereo cable? The right jack is a stereo output. The left jack is not an output but an audio input (When you look at the sammich from above, not at the rear panel) So you need a stereo cable to hear both sids. PS: Si quieres, podrias escribir en espanol también. Hay mucha gente acqui que lo habla. (yo no muy bien :D )

:frantics: :sorcerer: :frantics:

:frantics: good!

That´s true, the prices are supercheap but - IMO - when you have a closer look at the pots/encoders almost all offered types have some kinks and arent always suited very well for midibox applications. e.g. the rk09 lin mono pots are center detented which means you can barely use them besides pan pots, pitch or pwm applications. Same goes for the encoders. The 24 step types are either horizontally or have the bushing type shaft that is quite long. The better suited ec16 (which is similar to the often used stec16b) ist 12 steps only. Dont get me wrong, i dont wanna talk it down and its definately a good offer but pay attention to the description. ;-)

with black screws it would be worth 1400 € minimum... :whistle:

Hi Joel, the sammich features one Stereo SID Modul controlled by one core. That means - like Julian said - it is basically monotimbral but with stereo sound (One SID per audio channel). So if you got sound coming out of both of your speakers, both SIDs are working. If one SID is broken, you would hear only one speaker (assuming you use a stereo jack on the audio output). Even though the sammich is basically a monotrimbral Synth there are some "polyphonic" patches in which the 3 different oscillators of each SID can be played independently by different midi notes. E.g. dial in patch number A016 "poly...something" and play two ore more notes on your keyboard and you will notice that the rows of status LEDs at the top will display the oscillators of both of your SIDs (3 each). If you dont have a keyboard ready dial in patch 33 "drum kit xy" and wittness various Drumsounds played by the two chips. So..if that´s working your SIDs should be fine. If not, post a follow up and we work it out. Anyway I´d recommend you reading the WIKI and the SID user manual (http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_fs.html), it appears you have missed that so far...

The GM5X5X5 is a pimped GM5 with 10 Midi I/Os and moar bling bling (11LEDs). So if you have the need for more than 1 external midi gear at once, go for the GM5X5X5... PS: (x) yes this is a odd place (x) i will read the wiki next time (x) :D

Hm..ohne nILS geht nicht. Sonst werde ich meine Dankes-Biere, die sich so über die Jahre angesammelt haben, ja nie los...

Wo kommst Du denn her? Eventuell ließe sich das ja unter etwas Anleitung bewerkstelligen...so geht der DIY Gedanke ja ein bisschen verloren...