Echopraxia

My sammichSID is rebooting every once in a while. I do not think it is getting too hot. I feel heat from the regulator side but it seems minimal. I was thinking maybe I did not put enough heat sink compound on. However, I am using a 12VDC 500ma supply. Is it not getting the power it needs? Should I go to at least 600ma? P.S. I ordered the standard kit and got a black text on green backround LCD instead of the green on black you have pictured for the borg. Do you still offer the borg LCDs?

Alright I tested some more and am still confused. I was able to get two row buttons working at most but when I had more hooked up I was only able to access one row. I tried another set of buttons and same thing. I was also having behavior where one button would work, then it wouldn't without changing anything. I am ordering a breadboard tonight so I can figure this out without soldering myself silly.

I do have all 4x6 buttons connected but It was not working this way. This is why I am confused. Thank you for letting me know I had the schematic correct. I will try again. Maybe my buttons are bad? Only one row button worked. All my column buttons work, those are the easy ones :). I will have to do more error testing. I do not know very much about diodes and was not sure if they needed to go before the buttons or after.

I have the buttons wired straight to the DIN J8 D1 and the diodes anodes (non-striped side) connected to these buttons also. The cathode (striped side) of each diode is wired to one of the DOUT J4 D5, D4, D3 and D2. Is this not correct? All the buttons do not work. Should I rewire the diodes anode side (non-striped) to DIN J8 D1 and then put the button on the cathode side (stiped) of the diode? Then also put the DOUT J4 D5 on a button and so forth?

Do the diodes go before the buttons or after the buttons? These diodes are not on the DIN or DOUT board already right? The DIN diagram looks like the diodes go after the buttons then from the diodes cathode side (striped) to the DOUT connection. I tried this with the buttons before the diodes and I am thinking my only choice now is to try the diodes before the buttons. Maybe someone has a picture of what a working row button section looks like? Thanks for your responses

I do not have any leds wired yet. Another question I had was, do the leds need to be wired up for the row buttons to work? I am just trying to get the row buttons working. Where do the diodes go? the schematic of the DIN board shows diodes going in the middle between the row buttons and the DOUT J4 D2,D3,D4,D5. Or am I reading it wrong?

Not like I've asked enough questions already, but. On the diagram for the DIN, the cable goes into the button and the button goes into the diode and the other end of the diode goes into the DOUT connection? My first post here indicated that the diode went first from the DIN board and then the button followed and directly from the button to the DOUT connection. Which one is right or are they both wrong?

I'm gonna be writing a book by the time I'm done with this. Row #1 has instrument, release, WT, User4 and Frq correct? Or is row #1 Volume, attack, LFO1, User1,BD, Mod/Carrier? I reversed the diodes so the striped end is connected directly to the button and the non-striped end is going to the DOUT board. My vero board is practically toast. I'll probably be at this for a couple days. Should of bought that breadboard tester :rolleyes: Still no luck. Any suggestions.

OK. I still have no success. I rewired the button diodes. I have the buttons wired straight to the DIN J8 D1 and the diodes anode (non-striped side) connected to the button also. I reversed the diodes so the black stripe is on the DOUT side now. The cathode (striped side) of each diode is wired to one of the DOUT D5, D4, D3 and D2. Is this not correct? All the buttons do not work. I used fresh diodes just to make sure. I don't need to have any of the leds wired for these buttons to work correct? My veroboard can't take much more desoldering so I can maybe get one more shot before I'm back to the dremel :wacko: Do I need to reverse the diodes? i.e have the diodes striped side (cathode) connected to the button and the non-striped side (anode) wired to the DOUT?

just to add to my previous question. I am reading about diodes and see that electricity goes one way in them. It starts from the non striped side (anode) and goes to the striped side (cathode. So from understanding this now, should I connect the first row button to the anode side of the diode and connect the cathode side to the DOUT input or vice versa? As of now I have ground ran to the anode side of the diodes and the cathode (striped) side ran to the button AND the DOUT. The reason for doing this happened because I was looking at Wilba's diode placment on the mbseq pcb of his and thought I saw only the striped side being connected to something but now I see that the anode side is connected to something too! So I guess that why its not working. The diodes should still be functional yes? Or should I put new diodes in. I will try to mess with this later tonight and post results.

I am in the middle of finally testing the matrix out. I wanted to ask a question before I got to far along. I ended up not having enough leds to complete the matrix for now :( but my question is regarding the 4 row buttons which I cannot get to work yet. I have all 4 row buttons completely wired up right now. I have the DIN J8 D1 going to all 4 row buttons. It is one wire striped along the way with the cable ending at row button #4 (does #4 being at the end matter?) Next I have the black stripe end of the diodes placed directly next to each respective button's pin and din wire to solder them altogether easily. Then I also have the DOUT J4 D2, D3, D4 and D5 cables ran to these same spots on row 1, 2, 3 and 4. So all four connections (DOUT,DIN,diode and button) are sandwiched ontop of each other. Is this ok or do the components need to be seperated so the transfer of electricity is streamlined? I tried wiring up at least two leds and I get the first one to light at start-up but when I press any of the row buttons the led goes out and if I press any of them I get no led light. Is this normal for this stage in wiring? No leds are soldered yet. Regards, echo

Found a seck mixer in ebay . Any one use these? Any good. Anyways the mixer blows fuses whenever anew one is put it here is the description. "a Seck Model 242 MK II Multi Track Mixing Board. This mixer was purchased from a estate sale and was well taken care of by a professional audio producer. The external AC power supply has a fuse inside that is blown. When a new fuse is replaced the unit powers on for a few seconds before the fuse is blown again. The Mixer works perfectly however the AC Power will need to be serviced. This item is being sold without warranty or returns." Is it a bad regulator not regulating the voltage coming in? if its an easy fix the $100 for shipping and $20 for the mixer might not be a bad deal.

Could you please rephrase the question. I don't quite understand. Are you trying to have a unmuted track mute when you change to the next pattern (or vice versa)? i.e from pattern A1 unmuted to pattern A2 muted (or vice versa)? Or are you trying to resync a track? I remember there was a "secret" function that would resend/receive a clock signal for using the mbseqv4 with other sequencers but I can't remember where that info is located. I think a video was posted on how to do it. It was a simple two button press combo. I myself wish I had a couple extra hands to do all the real time stuff the seqv4 can do. I need to look into connecting expression pedals. I know the BLM will also help too :)

I had the same question. If your careful you can use a conductive compound. You have to be VERY CAREFUL when applying it to not touch any leads of the regulators (or any thing else for that matter) which are very close to the heatsinks where the compound will be. I used as little as possible and my sammich works fine. Take the extra time to make sure your compound isn't all over the place. Wilba did not want everybody to try using conductive compounds because EXTRA CARE in the application is required. echo

Thats good to know. I was asuming TKs custom case would have had the panel built in at the fabrication of the case instead of being fitted for the case. Both would be useful because of people that already have a panel and all 300 people that are waiting for your bulk order would benifit from a complete case solution. Price break anyone? Sorry if i'm spamming Julian Peace, echo

I have finished my sammich and am wondering if I should buy a 1x stereo TRS to 2x mono L/R 1/4" cable to get stereo effects going. I keep reading about "stereo sid" and I can't seem to find any info if the audio out jack is actually in stereo. Is the audio in stereo too? Just don't want to buy a cable I don't need if its mono out.

Ah man thank you! Good call. Working just fine now. So many things to forget ya know?

I seem to be having trouble getting a drum track to go for more than 16 steps without having to adjust the options page measure function. It tells me that sync to measure is active for 16 steps when I try to make the drum track 64 steps. that means the pattern will change/update at 16 steps for changing to a new pattern or scubbing right? And it still just loops the first 16 steps even though I have pressed the 64 length. I thought this behavior was odd because my non-drum tracks are not doing this. Is this a bug with drum tracks?

I'm only posting here to avoid cluttering the BLM board. I have to say this thing is already helping me get more out of my MBSEQ. I would like to know if a few things are possible or feasible. I was playing with the virtual BLM and was making chord melodies and wanted to play different lower and higher notes than whats is normally available. I went to menu->fx->scale and changed the major scale to different settings and as I understand switching to different scales it was a long process to find the note I wanted to use. For simple "piano roll editor" types like myself I would find a up/down function very useful. I don't know how it would be made available. I would think an additional two buttons in the design might make sense for future builds that could either switch the whole octave up/down (with 2nd color leds lit for other octave notes) or step/scroll it so you can see going from low notes to high. Or maybe someone could explain scales to me so I can always get the note I am looking for without losing the flow. Also curious about the transposer page coming up. Will each of the 16 tracks be able to transpose on the same "page" at the same time? So I can button mash on 16 tracks simultaneously for crazy transposing? Any chance of getting the effects pages in the BLM so I can adjust the delay feedback on all 16 tracks simultaneously for some reggae effects. Maybe have the far left side of each row be 0% and the far right be 200% something like that? And can the processor handle all this? :)

Good to know. I dug through some boxes and found a 12vDC 500ma. Wadaya know.

Thanks Wilba, I have a 13vDC 500ma laying around. Would that be ok?

And just to add to the last post. I uploaded Sid V2 rc37 When i took the sids out I tried another power supply which is 9vDC 800ma and tested the sid pins and got only 7.3v. When i had my 9vdc 400ma supply plugged in I was getting 8.9v. What is that about?

Hello, I just finished getting my sammichSID built and installed the sid v2 app without issue. I did not mount the banksticks or the sids at this point. I then proceeded to mount the banksticks and sids at the same time (also the 223 caps for 6582a sids). When powering the unit back on I had all the leds stay lit and the screen showed a blank backlit display. I quickly turned it off, freaked out for a minute, realized I had the midi in and out cables reversed going into my computer midi interface. Then I turned the unit back on after fixing the midi cables and got only a blank backlit lcd screen (no leds on this time). So then I decided to take out the banksticks only and then turned the unit back on and still same thing. Then I took out the 6582a sids and the sid v2 app loaded no problem on the next power up. I decided to put the banksticks back in and they formatted ok. But what did I do wrong with the sids? I have JP shunt set horizontally like the thick white silkcreen says to do for 6582a sids (which I have)(it says shunt vertically for 6581 sids) I left both JBP's open. I am using a 9vDC 400ma wall wart which has already been tested on my MBFM. Is that enough for the sids to work? When i did my voltage checks I got 8.9v steady on my meter at all 9v pins at both boards and got 12.6v on all 12v pins on every where it needs to be. And just to cover all my bases. JR4 has a shunt and JBL has its shunt at 12v for the black text on green backround lcd. I have JMI and JMO shunted on the white silkscreen (JMI far right is left open and JMO far left is left open) I have 223 caps at pin 1? (top pin closest to rear panel) and the second pin of the cap at pin 3 which is two pins down vertically (after the white silkscreen line) Then I have the other caps at pin 4 and 6 (4th from the rear panel and 6th from the rear panel) all four caps are seated good I think. echo

If any one is interested this guy is selling these table top units for real cheap and they are high quality pieces but not complete so would maybe make for a great DIY case. USA only probably My link