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Posts posted by latigid on
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^^ these are very nice troubleshooting tips @gerald.wert!
A bit of info can be gleaned from the following MIOS code:
a "stab in the dark" test could be to load the bootloader hex (through MIOS Studio, not using the boothold mode) and change for one of the following LCD types:
MIOS32_LCD_TYPE_CLCD = 0x00,
MIOS32_LCD_TYPE_CLCD_DOG = 0x01,
MIOS32_LCD_TYPE_CLCD_PP = 0x02,only the 0x00, 0x01 or 0x02 are needed.
QuoteLCD Type: applications which are compiled with the "universal" LCD driver can handle various character/graphical LCD types and display dimensions.
It's recommended to store these parameters of your MIDIbox in the bootloader info range.
Following commands are available:lcd_types lists all available LCD types and their appr. number set lcd_type the LCD type number (enter "lcd_types" to get a list of available types) set lcd_num_x number of LCDs in X direction set lcd_num_y number of LCDs in Y direction set lcd_width width of a single LCD (*) set lcd_height height of a single LCD (*) store
(*) CLCDs: number of characters, GLCD: number of pixels
Example: a single HD44780 based 2x20 character LCD is connected to your MIDIbox (default)
Enter:lcd_type CLCD lcd_num_x 1 lcd_num_y 1 lcd_width 20 lcd_height 2 store
Example2: two HD44780 based 2x40 character LCDs are connected to your MIDIbox
Enter:lcd_type CLCD lcd_num_x 2 lcd_num_y 1 lcd_width 40 lcd_height 2 store
Example3: five SSD1306 based 128x64 OLEDs are connected to your MIDIbox in vertical direction
Enter:lcd_type GLCD_SSD1306 lcd_num_x 1 lcd_num_y 5 lcd_width 128 lcd_height 64 store
Please note: some applications (like MIDIbox SEQ V4) could overrule the predefined parameters if they can't handle smaller (or larger) LCD sizes.
Please note also: some applications could have been released with a different LCD driver (MIOS32_LCD != "universal") which don't consider these parameters. It's up to the developer to document this limitation. -
You might try some of the other LCD configs, though I couldn't say what one would be better.
For the SD card, one way is to edit the file with a text editor on your computer and upload it using the file browser. Normally uploads go okay, but downloads hardly ever work for me.
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Of course, I asked incessantly if they could add switches, but because of the design that isn't possible. The workaround is to use individual metal touch sensors, which is a bit different but is quite easy to get used to I think.
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Yep, I've tried jam mode too and liked it quite a lot! It's my hope that the 16 selection buttons can be used in a mode to jump to different sections of a song for freeform restyling.
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From me :) (custom order of 1000 parts was the minimum to test).
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Here are the buttons and encoders
and the 'ELO board:
Sorry for the long-winded explanations. The shine through effect will be much better with clear Waldorf knobs, but I don't have any on hand at the moment.
Most of the discrete SMT is for touch sensors (here they are single metal plates), so if you just want the displays + illuminated encoders, the assembly is very straightforward -- shift register chain and some 2*5 headers.
@Hawkeye and I are slowly getting the "standard" Programma together, but of course these are good to go for other usecases.
Best,
Andy -
While not LED rings, I have some 4*4 encoder boards that use WS2812 LEDs. The simplest MIOS implementation fixes the colour (as RGB or hsv (better)) and uses the level/brightness to indicate the CC value from 0-127.
I have two types available; a simple one with just encoders, and a more complex one that uses the 45 degree displays (as part of MBProgramma v2). For buttons, there's a 4*4 matrix using the same programmable LEDs and Sparkfun button pads.
Feel free to shoot a PM if you're interested in getting some or you want more info.
Best
Andy -
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CN1 is the miniUSB and is used to flash the bootloader via ST-LINK. It also supplies power to the target.
CN5 is the microUSB for uploading MIOS apps. Its "Vbus" is not connected to the +5V required to supply the MCU, so you need a jumper cable or a Core PCB.
The issue with the older firmware is an absence of a USB connection in CN1 would hold the main MCU in reset. This was rectified in the later firmware update for ST-LINK v2.
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I decided to re-spin the boards:
- a bit more compact; the idea is to use the panel mount screws for fixing, but there was room for one standoff. If needed, the holes (~3.3mm) in the connector can be utilised instead of soldering down the metal tabs
- layout improved -- single layer with power/plane on the other side. No vias for the signal lines.
- +5V is connected through a jumper on both ends, so one could add a power supply if required or disconnect if the cable has too much voltage drop.
- JAOUT is there, but it would be better IMO to use either a special ribbon cable on the 2*5 or just ensure the AOUT boards have a 1:1 compatible IDC.
- Alternative connection on a 26-way IDC header. This might be useful if the DB-25 is too chunky or needs a free-hanging connector like this.
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I route up my boards using separate traces for RC1 and RC2, and I split SC into SC_DOUT and SC_DIN if it's practical.
Hopefully it works to tie RC1 and RC2 together where it's needed. IMO it's the "least critical" signal of the SRIO chain as it just tells the shift register when to transfer the 8 bits from storage to the outputs in the case of DOUT, or when to scan the inputs for DIN.
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If you look at the old PIC8 Core, there was only a single RC line. Now they are separated (different MCU pins and also buffered), but RC1 and RC2 send latch pulses at the same time. I.e. for the moment (and foreseeable future) there's no practical difference between them. This is not the case for other SPI ports, like J19 or J16, where the RCs are "chip selects" for separate peripherals.
When Wilba did his SEQ PCB, he simply bussed the two RCs together. My guess is running data busses in parallel is more important when you have chains of DIN/DOUT separated over multiple PCBs, rather than BLMs etc. on a single PCB. Still, the best practice is apparently to split both RC and SC (!) and run whole chains of DIN/DOUT. The SC on the output header is best sourced from the longer chain (either DIN or DOUT):
More to the point of your build, RC1 should be routed with the DOUT side, and RC2 with the DIN side. You've done it the other way around. I don't have any DIOMATRIX modules, but from the schem TK. is not following his own guidelines
. Because RC2 isn't connected on DIOMATRIX, and your PCBs correctly spilt them, then the result is no connection for the RC2 line on your PCB.
I think you can solve this by bridging RC1 -> RC2 on one of the headers e.g. on the output of DIOMATRIX or the input of your board.
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Is the issue still with the line driver/receiver? Can you get the AOUT to work when using _NG with data passing through the driver/receiver?
Often my AOUT_NG needs a reset; it can be that the PSU doesn't stabilise fast enough to receive an init command correctly. This is easiest done by changing the AOUT type back and forth in the CV setup menu (e.g. AOUT_NG -> _LC -> _NG).
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How to do illuminated encoders (pots) if you're Waldorf:
Quite classy, and uses an interesting lens to shine the light upwards.
They've even got the bipolar red/green going.
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12 minutes ago, tago said:
With my current design i'd need 4* DINX4 and 4* DOUTX4 when using direct connections between Btns/LEDs and SRs. For potentiometers i'd have an AINSER64. According to the docs double than that should be possible, but is such a large number of SRs going to negatively affect the MIOS32/Core32 performance?
This is easy to test, just increase the number of shift registers defined in the NGC (max 32 I think), even if you have fewer in your chain. Now connect some hardware and see if you notice the latency. If you do, decrease the number of SRs until you're happy.
QuoteIs it possible to leave some LEDs out (eg per row) in a matrix?
Yes.
QuoteCould you explain "multiple matrices based on smaller sections" any further?
Instead of an 8*8 matrix, define two different ones, or however many you require based on the panel layout. You don't have to fill every position.
QuoteI'm really not sure if matrix wiring is going to be too tricky/messy with frontpanel perfboards in the end. I've to make the (large) frontpanel pcb out of smaller ones. I assume for matrices i'll need some busses on these perfboards. But how will they fit in a space saving manner on a 2,54mm grid? Unfortunately i couldn't find photos of similar projects on the web to see how others approach all this.
Draw your panel, divide the thing into sections. Perfboard/stripboard is useful if you have regular 0.1" spacing, also consider the different heights of components and group those of a similar/adjustable height (e.g. LEDs are versatile).
I suggest that you go for the direct wiring route. It's a much more linear way of solving the problem, and you're not constrained by fixed geometries. It's easy to address each element and to fix mistakes.
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Hi Johan,
Thanks!
As part of the design process the jogwheel is now just a normal encoder (with a push switch). The rationale for leaving the jog/shuttle off:
- availability isn't great, though could come directly from ALPS
- size is pretty massive
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additional software handling is required to scan the absolute position encoder and the spring-loaded sides
- as this would likely fall to TK., it's extra coding effort that he wouldn't find useful himself, he's a really busy guy!
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currently there aren't any applicable parameters to match functions on the SEQ
- I suggested a progressively accelerated increment/decrement, but there wasn't much buzz around the idea
Hopefully the normal DK-38 with a push button, along with acceleratable GP encoders is okay (c.f. Machinedrum/elektron stuff). If someone wants to make a PCB for the jog/shuttle and code in the extras, then it's totally doable with modular PCBs!
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This is awesome! I love the fit-for-purpose design, and the self-routed PCBs are really hardcore. Do we get to see/hear it in action?
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Getting there :-)
The modular PCBs are basically done; the top row would be underneath the OLEDs. I was looking at a through hole microSD card on the front, but I'm changing the Core so it will move to the back and turn into the common 3M full sized one. Have to figure out a different solution for the beat LED, which TK. insisted on :-). It might be that the Line Driver can be squashed a bit, but there should be plenty of room for everything, even AOUT/DOUT boards with a breakout on DB-25 (or 3.5mm/1/4" sockets) instead if you wanted.
Because the PCBs are modular, you could move the jogwheel into the centre. TK. would say that this disconnects the displays, especially when there's information that flows onto the second OLED. But if you prefer a bit more symmetry then why not? :-)
For sure, I'm a DAW-less guy, so this is gonna be the heart of my setup too.
Best,
Andy-
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I think the cases look fantastic and it's a good "full solution" rather than the half measures of 19" or desktop panels as has been the case for almost 10 years. They should be a lot sturdier than Heidenreich's.
As mentioned elsewhere, the back panel is outdated. I'm currently working on a PCB set that could help for modern implementations, even if people wanted to use the Wilba version over the V4+. When this is ready I'd be happy to share the dimensions in case people want to go this route.
As far as "seeing the light of day" I think the risk is more on people like Julian and me, as the activity levels of the MIDIbox community seems to dwindle over time. Of course, maybe there are a lot of "silent" members or it just requires projects to come out of the shadows first. That said, I'm designing something that I would like to use, which is motivation enough!
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10 hours ago, tago said:
I tried to measure the current with my cheap multimeter, but failed. It always displayed zero. The fuse in the MM seemed ok but fell apart after removal. So i'll have get a new fuse and try again. But since it's PWM is it actually measurable that way?
When measuring mA, never adjust the dial (e.g. voltage, resistance etc.) with the leads plugged into the mA measurement points. It's a low impedance measurement and you'll blow the fuse if connected across a voltage source. But if the LED still lit up, then the fuse was okay. Maybe you were set to Amps rather than milliAmps?
If the PWM speed is fast enough, you should get an average of the current draw. Some meters also have a max/averaging function.
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If you change your mind it's not too hard to get to know it. Just say if you want a few tips
How were your issues resolved by the way? Something simple like the transistors round the wrong way or something?
Best
Andy -
7 hours ago, tago said:
I got a dimmed LED working, but had to use a range map (eg 0 2) to get a fixed dimmed value. Is there a better way?
I haven't tried this with direct DOUT pins. I know for the WS2812-type LEDs "dimmed=1" will allow a CC to control the dimming level as defined in the LED event.
7 hours ago, tago said:Does this method saves power vs resistor solution? I'd assume yes if it's done via PWM. But i have really no idea.
With a resistor, you're burning current*voltage as heat, so yes, switching the LED via PWM should be more efficient. Measure it yourself: set the multimeter to mA and connect it in series after the resistor. You'll need a higher value resistor to match the given dimmed value.
Something else to keep in mind is you don't want a panel full of flashlights. The more LEDs on your panel, the lower brightness they should be (depending on how they're spread apart).
6 hours ago, tago said:The question is whether strip boards would really help with many mixed parts (leds, btn, pots).
Check also if your parts have a standard 0.1"/2.54mm pin spacing.
6 hours ago, tago said:A custom pcb at dirtypcb with 80x25cm cost $250 for 10 pieces. If i could find a manufacturer that offers single pieces, maybe it would make sense to do a custom pcb.
If you're inexperienced with PCB design, it will probably take the same amount of time (+mistakes) as going the wiring method. That said, it's a good chance to practice. Consider splitting the panel into subsections, that brings the down cost and shipping is easier. If others find the layouts useful you can sell the extras you don't need.
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Try dimmed and see how it works for you. Dimming doesn't work properly in a matrix.
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Just now, tago said:
I tested some 20mA LEDs and found they could be dimmer. Low-current LEDs (2mA) would be to dark. Is it ok to halve the current via higher resistance sink resistor? Or will there be too much loss/ bad efficiency?
Matrix or direct drive?
Question on sustain
in MIDIbox SEQ
Posted
Did you try fiddling with the Glide trig layer?