Futureman

Thanks Sasha, but my Juno60's pretty much in mint condition. I actually meant an audio input into the chorus circuit.. It's rolands famous chorus, which many guitarists seem to like. Yep, DCB kinda sucks.. I do have an MSQ-700 which, while that does not convert from midi to DCB, lets me sequence it if I want, and can be clocked from Midi or Din Sync. Reeds would be a 'brute force' way of midi-ing it I guess.. There used to be a seller selling MIDI->DCB DCB->MIDI converters, but I don't see any now. Are you keeping the keyboard? Or gonna rack mount it? A Midibox midification of a Juno60 would be super (Using it's key matrix), but I think the target audience would be to small for it to ever get off the ground, And it's beyond the scope of my abilities right now. I also have a STUPID amount of the DCB connectors.. some farmer in the states sold a whole box to me when I could not source a DCB lead... If you want a few Sasha, Let me know. Regards Mike

Just following up on this.. Incase anyone is looking at DIY text etc.. Here's some pics of 'letraset' text which is labled under the knobs.. after I did this I sealed it in with a few coats of clear acrylic spray. The others are from a stick on clear label maker.. both options very cheap... letraset was tricky trying to get it straight etc, as you can see in the pic. Regards Mike 5- Closeup of labeling.JPG 5- Closeup of labeling.JPG

Hey Sasha, I've got a Juno 60's service manual floating around.. I do dig my J60.. It's a shame your chopping it up, but seeing the quality of your work, I'm sure it's gonna be tops. The Juno 6 / 60 piss all over a Juno 106.. I don't understand why people drool over 106's.. it's probably because they have Midi, but sonically, the 6 & 60 are monsters compared to the boring 106. Good quality chorus inside the Juno60.. if you are getting real busy with hacking it up, see if you can add an input to it. Regards Mike

I never owned a C64 when I was a kid.. we had an Apple IIe.. so the whole 64 thing is a bit lost on me.. My motivation for building a SID synth was I wanted something that sounded different to all the other synths I have. And It does sound very different to your average analogue or VA or digital synth.. Regards Mike

Congrats! Yea, 2 SIDS's in stereo sure is pretty damn cool.. I even really dig the poly mode in stereo (6 voices) bouncing around.. Regards Mike

Nothing huge, but check out the two different styles of text. The larger letters were done with "letraset" which is now hard to find / no longer made.. and took ages getting each letter right.. After I did the 'Letraset' text (For all the knobs) I then covered it with about 5 layers of clear acrylic spray. The other words (Smaller ones) came from my trusty lable maker using clear plastic tape.. you can see the edges of the stickers while close up, but from normal distance, it actually looks real good.. I guess it's a cheap option for the DIYer who does not want to pay big dollars for text on their project (Well, it would not work for a dark coloured case) Regards Mike 5- Closeup of labeling.JPG 5- Closeup of labeling.JPG

Welcome! You are probably over qualified to undertake this project compared to others who have never picked up a soldering iron and completing a SID synth. Just read read read read read, and then read some more.. not just in one day, but over the next week until you have DIN's and DOUT's and AIN's and Cores coming out of you arse. For you, it could be that the biggest hurdle might be the physical construction (Enclosure), unless you are good with that stuff as well. Kind Regards Mike

I'd second the regulator. My friends sequencer would 'spaz' out quite a bit. He replaced the regulator and so far it's been working just fine. (I think he damaged it when his screen was shorting on his enclosure) Regards Mike

I'd just follow Smash's site... well, thats what I did anyway for construction of his boards / kits. http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/mbhp_coreR4d.html Regards Mike

0.34mm -- Thats quite a bit of pushing involved.. I've come across knobs / shafts like this, and no amount of pushing (except with the aid of a hammer) is gonna get them on.. especially if the knobs are a hard plastic. You could possible try a tiny tiny tiny bit of lubrication to aid getting them on? Regards Mike

Don't worry too much, just solder them in.. You might set them once (How bright do you want the screen etc) and thats it.. You won't want to reach for these trimmers every time you use your midibox. Set them in the centre for now.. you will see when you power up the core + LCD if you want it brighter / contrast etc. (No harm can come to your midibox with those trimmers) Regards Mike

Hey BF, I'm pretty sure Flemming does not have a LCD at all.. An LCD would however possibly help to see what is going on with your Core ? Just my 2 cents. Regards Mike

Damn cool... very organic design!

I've used this one to read & burn some old eeproms for my Linndrum & Drumtraks... these models might (or might not) apply to you. You might need to erase the eeprom fist tho.. To be honest, eeproms are pretty tough little nuggets, and I've never had anything go faulty through one of them going bad (but your experience might differ) http://business.shop.ebay.com.au/items/Business-Industrial__willem_W0QQLHQ5fAvailToZ15QQQQ_catrefZ1QQ_flnZ1QQ_fromfsbZQQ_sacatZ12576QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em282?_trksid=p3286.c0.m282

Gold!

hehe... I was thinking about vinyl / fake leather... but I might have to give it a miss... I will however, try and get a cadillac style writing name on the front of back of it.. it's probably gonna be called "El Presidente" in nice flowing silver writing.. well thats the plan anyway. I've got some old car badges that have got the sort of vibe I'm looking for. Regards Mike

Yep, I'm using some wood in between the keys and under the keys, and also the end cheeks... Like the Moog source.. Regards Mike

More pics & updates.. It's mostly assembled except for the timber work.. (I'm waiting for my Dad to be over here in australia before I start that) It's all running sweet.. no problems so far.. all very happy. Regards Mike 5 - Nearly assembled.JPG 5- From behind.JPG 5- From behind 2.JPG 5 - Nearly assembled.JPG 5- From behind.JPG 5- From behind 2.JPG

You gotta have more cowbell... <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4royOLtvmQ&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param'>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4royOLtvmQ&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4royOLtvmQ&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Cheers, Glad others like the beige.. I wired up all the external jack sockets today... 4 Stereo pair outs, The Left/mono & right out , The 4 Stereo external inputs , Sustain pedal socket. I checked all the external inputs, and wow! I was initially a bit sceptical about how useful and effective they would be to processing external signals (In my case, I often run samples through filters). It's real cool to tap out a sequence of filter triggering on the keyboard, sequence it, and use it to modify a sound in real time.. the high pass really rocks.. it reminds me of a EDP Wasps filter... or kind of like a Yamaha CS-5's. Regards Mike

So I cleaned & primed & painted the chasis.. yep, it's a darkish beige.. I can see how some people (a few mates) don't really dig the colour, but they can suck on a lemon.. with the knobs on and some timber, it'll look straight out of the 60's.. As for text on the face, I've got a few cheap ideas... I've got some clear tape for my label maker coming to me.. yep, thats pretty budget.. (Maybe seal it with clear epoxy spray) A friend has heaps of electraset (speelling?) letters, and I might be able to do some on the face and then seal it in with some clear epoxy spray.. I'm quite happy with the quality of the spray job I did... that was about 4 coats over about 3 days. Another small update in the LA audio EQ's & Line driver amps is that they do need +/-15vDC to run, so I might add an extra small power supply to power em. I don't like the idea of an extra power supply, but it's probably the only practical way I can give them +/-15dc. Another option is to leave them out all together, but the mixed output of the MB-6582 is so quiet that it's begging for some quality amplification, and these modules will do the trick nicely, and they would have cost an arm and a leg when new. Also, the fixed up super poly mode is bitchin! TK you are a genius! Regards Mike 4 - It's painted beige..JPG 4 - It's painted beige..JPG

The " + Additional Options.. " is what you want to click on when writing a message.. Regards Mike

9v AC (into the core) or 9v DC ? 9v AC into the full wave rectifier ( x 1.41) minus the drop in the silicon diodes of the rectifier ( - 0.6v ) = 12 v DC (Or there abouts) feeding into the regulator If it was 9v DC = about 8.4 volts DC feeding into the regulator. Typically, a normal 7805 needs about 7-8 volts DC for it to work.. the excess is turnt into heat. Does the regulator get too hot to touch? If so, you might need to attach a heatsink to it.. They are rated to about 100 deg C. (I would never ever want mine to run that hot.. it'll heat everything around it.) If it gets blindingly hot, then you will probably eventually damage the regulator. - I'd be checking for faults etc.. disconnect the individual boards (DIN / DOUTS / LCD's) one by one to see where it's happening. Regards Mike

Brilliant! SPM working tops! A++ for you TK! Regards Mike

I drew this up on our laptop.. this is my plan anyway.. I can't remember which side the switch is on my switching jack sockets.. but this'll do for now.. Regards Mike Mono Switching.JPG Mono Switching.JPG