findbuddha

No iPad yet (I will wait till release of iPad 3 in early March), but here are some early tinkerings: The encoders work with vertical touch movements - I think this would be comfortable to use but I haven't actually tried it myself. For some actions quick selection options could come up in the container at bottom right.

I haven't checked the actual pins that you have left unconnected (should you have them labelled correctly to make error checking easier for yourself?), but it is normal to have pins unconnected for the +X row and column. I've attached a pic of my schematic, different layout but same principle.

Hadn't seen the MBCV V2 development.... looks great! My suggestion is a combination of 1 and 2. Have a main interface similar to MBSEQ frontpanel, but keep a space for a 'pop up menu'. Press and hold on the virtual encoder (or other button) and all available options pop up in the menu area. Then you could have direct selection of notes etc. I will investigate the purchase of a second hand iPad. If I get one I'll help with the Lemur stuff.

1 - You'll definitely want to have your pot shafts and knobs matching. From my quick perusal flat/D shaft seems easier to come by, so unless there's a specific part you want to use that may be your best option. 2 - If you don't mind having 4 screws showing on your front panel it's very easy to panel mount most LCDs. Otherwise there are the options jojjelito mentions.

Interestingly Reaper has recently added a web interface plugin - it seems highly configurable. My suspicion is that other protocols for using MIDI / OSC will offer less latency though. http://charlie-roberts.com/Control/ Seems to be a promising solution for crossplatform use, but it's very much less polished than Lemur. I asked the Lemur dev (Liine) if they were porting to Android and they suggested they would consider it but can't promise anything.

I'd personally skip the 64e and use the new LPC17 core http://ucapps.de/mbhp_core_lpc17.html with http://ucapps.de/midio128.html Displaying track name on the LCD is slightly more difficult. I don't know Reason but your best solution without writing a new Remote Codec is to use the existing one for the Mackie Control. This will require a little bit of firmware hacking on your midibox, but it shouldn't be too difficult. Looks like TK might be writing something that will work called Midibox NG v2, see:

Yes, 5 volt, but make sure you test using the PCB (not just a breadboard) as the matrix wiring reduces the brightness a bit.

TK, I have been thinking about the idea of tablet interfaces for MBSeq..... How possible is it to create an entire remote interface? Especially I wonder if it's possible to do remote display (no LCDs on hardware Seq) via MIDI or OSC and still have acceptable performance. I don't expect you to code these features, just looking for expert advice :)

Is this still happening? :)

Some folks here are designing a midibox based kit geared towards Reaper, and have mentioned very cheap prices for the ALPS motor faders for a potential group buy. http://forum.cockos....ead.php?t=91062

Shuriken, can you share what tablet you bought? Are you happy with it? Thanks

Try to get the part numbers for the motor faders and the LCDs if you can see them. They're probably the main parts that may have compatibility problems. You'll need probably 2 or 3 Core LPC modules, 4 MF_NG modules, and various DIN/DOUT/AIN boards depending on how they're connected in the mixer.

There's an app for both iOS and Android that looks like it could work: http://charlie-roberts.com/Control/ Might not be bug free at current, and the Android version's a little old, but it appears to be both open source and fully user scriptable for the interfaces. Good news for those of us who avoid apple ;)

Maybe you could export / save to a different format, and print from another program? Maybe an image editor like GIMP or Photoshop could do it....

If it's just for the silkscreen on the bottom you could manually draw the footprint on that layer

Here's a picture, sorry about quality it's a phone camera. First module is DIN, second is DOUT, there's another DIN after that (not shown). The DIN/DOUT PCBs pass through all 10 pins to the next board, so you don't have to worry about which row of 5 to use. For the shift register heating issue, ensure that each shift register is inserted and oriented correctly in socket.

Here's a source for rack mount chassis: http://www.modushop.biz They can do CNC milling etc on some of the panels too.

Yes, all correct. The easiest way to connect this is with a 10 pin (2x5) IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector) and 10 wire ribbon cable. See number 33 and 34 here http://www.midibox-shop.com/buy.html if you don't know what they are. Using this J8/9 (all 10 pins) is connected directly to J1 of the first DIN or DOUT board. More 10 pin IDC and ribbon cable to connect J2 of first board to J1 of second board. DIN and DOUT can be in any order, as both signals are present on the 10 wire ribbon cable. I can take a photo if you are still not sure.

Maybe you have inserted some shift registers around the wrong way? It is a 2x5 connector so that you may connect any order that you choose of DIN and DOUT to the core with a 2x5 IDC connector + ribbon cable.

Not sure where you got 15 from? My interpretation is: 0x0CBA Replace the letter with 0 if you want it disabled, f for enabled. They are groups of 4 channels (eg. A0... A3)

The mods are to remove the detent (click feel when you move it). It's also possible on the PEC11 - I have done it. However you may not be happy with the feel after the mod.

This is already possible, as the BLM is connected to SEQ via MIDI. (I'm not sure if it's possible to hot-plug, you may need to reboot SEQ)

http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=encoders It looks like the PEC11 are currently available from SmashTV/midibox-shop.com

I'll take 32x 3/04/DRP110 006/26 BLK1004/WHT224 Cheers

Ponoko 3mm black frosted acrylic is great! But be careful if you are planning to rackmount it - it may not be strong enough, depending on how heavy (and particularly how deep) the rest of your chassis is.