Hawkeye

Great news, really! Keep it up! :)

Thanks, TK. did all the hard work :) We unfortunately only had time for very few recording takes, so there are some major timing issues with me playing the keyboard :) The BLM is always fascinating again, as is the simplicity with which you can chain midiboxes together :) Bye, Peter

The LPC17 core will work fine without an Ethernet MagJack. Depending on your connectivity requirements, you can leave out some more components, e.g. for a USB-powered SEQ V4 Lite... but it is generally recommended to fully populate the boards as it is only a few dollars more, and you have a reusable standard module, then. The MagJack is a bit of an exception, as it can be quite expensive and hard to get. You can always solder the Jack on later, when you need MIDI over ethernet :) Bye, Peter

+1 on long preprocessed samples on a "big computer", sd storage capacity usually is not the issue (you get an 8gb card with every bought sixpack of beer :-)) Many greetings! Peter

You can safely invert A and K wires for LED-backlit displays that don´t obtain logic voltage from these pins (they should not anyways).

Can you send a datasheet link for your screens? My first MB-6582 backlit character LCD had A and K reversed.

Mist, wenn genau diese MIDI-Verbindung über MIOS-Studio mit anderen MIDIboxen funktioniert (sofern vorhanden), wär glaub ich der nächste Schritt mal aufm MB-6582 Baseboard die Spannungen durchzumessen, es gibt irgendwo im Wiki eine Doku, wo was anliegen muss - vielleicht ist auch einfach Dein Netzteil im Eimer oder ne Sicherung durchgebrannt... kann mir nicht vorstellen, daß Du mit der Aktion auf dem Baseboard viel kaputt gemacht haben kannst... Ciao, Peter

Hi, was passiert wenn Du das Display absteckst, MIDI IN/OUT Kabel dransteckst und mit MIOS Studio verbindest? Kommt dann ein Uploadrequest oder bleibt die MIDIbox aus? Wenn Du Glück hast, ist nix weiter passiert und nur das Display defekt (gewesen), eine Lötanleitung für den Display-Anschluss ist im MB6582 CS Tutorial hier: Würde sagen, die Anschlüsse sind nicht bei allen Displays genormt. Ciao, Peter

Ground from the Wall outlet is usually used to protect humans from malfunctioning electric devices in a metal case (thats why plastic appliances usually only have those smaller two-pin wall plugs). The idea is, if a cable in a household device comes loose and the case is made from metal and grounded, the household fuse will blow and nobody can get electrocuted. You usually don´t need ac mains ground for normal transformers in plastic cases. If you also want to build/connect an aout module, you will need a -12/0/12V bipolar power supply - does your PSU also deliver these Voltages? As it is a switchmode PSU, you may need to filter output ripple with capacitors for better sound. If you want to connect your LED backlight, and it is a 5V backlight, you connect the 0V/GND PSU output to the "K"(athode) and the 5V rail to the "A"(node) pins on the LCD, correct. Bye, Peter

Gslug is absolutely correct, I ´ve looked again at the datasheet, the lamp is 12V, but the switch is capable to switch 220V... that means... if you want to use that lamp, just as gslug said, you can only switch low-voltage (12v)! you can use the switch for 220V mains switching, but must leave the third pin open, meaning you cannot have switch illumination for this model. Do not connect the third pin!

Ok, for the next try, a) using your connectivity beeper, before soldering, measure which two pins can be interupted by flicking the switch. b) wire one of these pins to the ac inlet and protect with shrink tube c) wire the other of these pins to the psu and protect with shrink tube d) wire the other phase of the ac inlet to the other phase of the psu and protect with shrink tube. This should make the PSU switchable. Please wear a saftey helmet, rubber gloves and leave your left hand in your back pocket :). It may be that the light is already burning when switched on and wired like this. Maybe the third pin is an "alternating" switch port, which i believe by now. Please do not back-connect the 12v output of the psu to the free pin of the switch, it cannot be that the light burns like this. Best of luck! Peter

Hi Lars, It might work if you have tha coding skillz :) but, i wouldn´t do it, a core + lpc costs much less than the time that would be necessary for it, and you can wire it up all within the keyboard, so nobody sees that there´s two cores involved :) Bye, Peter

Cool! Good luck! :)

Dude :sweat:! You shouldn ´t have turned it on, if it says 12V and you have only connected it to AC mains wires! :shocked: Great, that nothing else happened! Did you measure before switching on? Two pins are switched together/connected, when the connectivity beeper beeps, if it does not beep not, they´re not connected. Lesson learned: Never hook up a device to ac mains that connects neutral and live phase together, otherwise Kaboom :hairy:. Hope the switch was not too expensive, please don´t reuse it in any other projects, it is fried now. Why not just use a standard non-illuminated switch? The SEQ has enough lights to indicate function! Or maybe rethink using USB power, it is safe, inexpensive and so on :) Best of luck! :-) Bye, Peter

Ok, as long as you promise to leave your left hand always in your back pocket, when working with this :) (edit: schematics removed due to blown switch after Lamouette tried it, don´t want anyone get electrocuted :) Regarding the wire - use 230v wire, as used for installing lamps in your house, they usually consist of a blue (hot phase) and black (neutral phase) stiff wire. No guarantees on this one though. It may blow your household fuse, if I interpreted the datasheet wrong - the same manufacturer also offers the switch with a 12v lamp, probably for switching 12v lines. Hope you have the 230V one. Best of luck! Peter Note: within an electric device, you are free to swap neutral and hot phase, because you never know which way the ac mains plug is plugged in. Just for household installations, you should make sure that the colors (black for neutral and blue for hot phase) are met, but i´ve seen quite a few installations over the years where the electricians were lazy. PS: It would be wise to add a 220V / 0.5 Amps fuse on the "hot wire" before the transformer in. If the transformer coil has a short, it will otherwise blow your household fuse (happened to me last week with an unfused broken transformer). Edit: Forget that last sentence, i´ve just seen your open frame psu already has a fuse on its input. Very good! :)