Hawkeye

Interesting & very good looking! It seems to be one-part only (not glued together)? But has it a protrusion on the backside to glue it into the frontpanel from behind? Greets, Peter

I´ve no idea too, but expect it to be less than 8 ohms... so you could buy a few cheap 1R (11W) wire resistors and test with a variable number of them in series... until the voltage regulator gets its optimum voltage (while under load from the MB6582)... Ohms law would prolly help to calculate it :) Greets, Peter

To be fair, soldering the necessary connections on a vector board did not really take long and the schem is totally straightforward... If you are creating a PCB, you are dependent on the exact spacing/measurements of the transformer, which is not good (even reichelt does not have my original unit in stock all the time)... Also, the case needs to be laid out for the size of the transformer and the heat sink... also worldwide availability of those components would be necessary.. So thats why I guess everyone brews their own PSU around here (or buys it)... but if anyone creates a PCB and maybe offers a parts kit including shipping... that would surely count as a heroic job :-). I would not do it, because of the risk of someone touching mains voltage while building that PSU... Greets, Peter

Thanks a lot for the schematics - it all looks very clean to me... I will wait until your final order before adaptation (not because of missing interest or lack of faith, but because of only 24 available hours per day :-)). Greets and keep up the good work! Peter

Thanks, but mine is not perfect, it needs a power resistor for burning off some excess volts just ahead of the vreg, and I had the feeling that using it introduced a little bit of noise to the MB6582, A-B´ing it with the original PSU revealed it - the effect is not very promiment though, especially regarding the relatively high noise floor of the SIDs... Need to look at the output of the PSU with a scope and need to perform some capacitator replacement tests... Dreamer, on second thought, I would not invest 150 bucks in a linear psu but instead recommend to try to build the crowbar protector as a separate "middleware" cirucit ... this has some advantages: a) cheap b) non-lethal voltages involved c) reuse of the C64 brick (we only have one planet) d) quick to build All you need is a fuse, and the thrysistor-sub-circuit after the vreg from retro-donald. Also, you can test it very nicely with a lab psu or a 9v battery (the crowbar triggers at ca 6.2Volts)... this should raise your confidence regarding your SIDs safety :-) Greets, Peter

Thank you all very much :flowers: MIDIboxers are the best! :thumbsup: Greets, Peter

Hello Paul, am somewhat also in the position, that I want one, but those things are not soo cheap. After some research, I´ve come up with a candidate unit, that offers most of the features I´d like, it is the Rigol DS1052e - 2 channels, but only with 50mhz range, but anything above that and it gets really expensive... cost is around 350€, which is outright cheap for a new unit with the features offered in comparsion to others, but still I think it is too much for my amateur needs - for the price, I could get nice music gear :-). The question is, what you will use it for - if you want to debug microcontroller logic levels, e.g. to debug display-problems :-), you will need as much bandwidth as possible, but if you are "only" into some 2-channel oscilloscope audio circuit "in-out" measurements, you could as well go lower and buy anything second-hand off evil-bay (but the really old gear is bulky and can have calibration problems)... As an interesting sidenote, sneakthief made me aware of these "ultra low-cost" scopemeters, which might already be enough for your starting needs - have a look at the gabotronics.com xprotolab which offers 2 channels for only 50USD (at a nonexistent bandwidth, but probably enough for audio signals). I think, I will give one of those thingies a try at some point in time :-) - they also come with an OLED ftw :). Greets, Peter

findbuddha, thanks very much for your schems - will look into them after work :-) Are these the corrected ones (as far as I remember, there was a wiring problem somewhere)? Great work on the "big" unit, btw! :-) Greets, Peter

I know the troubles, had a Newhaven clone (Electronic Assembly) for some time (until it burned on me for no reason) - it stayed nicely black after wiring - then after a few hours of hacking, I managed to get nice (oled ftw) but still garbage output, it looked like it was expecting 8-bit input, but the MB6582 is wired only for 4-bit mode, init failure so to say... Methinks, that the state, jojjelito is in currently in with his driver adaptation is similar - if you want to try your codes, you can use VFD driver as a base (4-bit access) or wait for him to shed light on some yet dark areas :-). As another alternative, after a talk with Wilba, he told me, that it is possible to alter the MB6582 to use 8 display data lines - in that case, I´d expect the "garbage" display driver to work - ask Wilba for moar info. Why and how that works, is out of my understanding though (aren´t those 4 lines used anywhere else on the MB6582?). Wilba, did you manage to get your OLED up and running (the Electronic Assembly one)? Greets, Peter

Thanks JRock! Yes, it is an EuF - my government set me on slim diet to afford the purchase. :huh:

Rimfrost, I fear the fuse is at the mains side ("avoid fire in the house, bad for Commodore marketing"), thus leaving the MB6582 unprotected from voltage regulator failure, but am gladly proven wrong :-) Greets, Peter

Thanks! Yes, it is a MBSEQ V4 and a little bit of free playing :) Greets, Peter

Had to test-drive the new synchronized track mute/unmute SEQ feature :rolleyes: - it really rocks :thumbsup: Sorry for the somewhat overused classic piano, but the nice summer day made me choose it :) Thanks for listening and have a great weekend! Peter

Hi Blackfield, wenn Du in der .asm was änderst, musst Du schon ein neues .hex kompilieren, damit es funktioniert... Ciao, Peter

Ah, jojjelitos trick is awesome and would have saved me some hours - use axial LEDs instead of SMD LEDs - not much soldering effort. Or use small "standard" LEDs soldered to the encoder ground pin with one leg (Wilbas method). Greets, Peter

Both are unreliable :frantics:- reports of burnt C64s have scared me away from those "native" PSUs - if the 20+ year old voltage regulator in one of these PSU fails, it will pump excess juice through your valuable MB6582 :unsure:

Thanks a lot, although the build is not yet 100% finished, I find myself playing with it every other day or so :-). Step 29: Adding an Ebony Wood Frame to the SEQ Control Surface Parts Used: * A piece of hard wood, e.g. tropical wood (please buy from a certified importer) * Woodworking tools (band-saw, belt sander) * A 2mm drill and 10mm wood screws Description: After many hours of playing the SEQ (which is simply the most awesome piece of music equipment, I own :-)), I decided to improve the installation below my master keyboard. The basic idea is, that its buttons should be very close to the keyboard, for live-playing and quick mute/unmute action. * I ordered a nice piece of ebony wood (photo 1) from designholz.com, but you can get it in many places. It is not as expensive as one may think, the depictured piece of wood cost around 50€, but please make sure, that it is harvested ecologically. * The first step is to sand it with a belt sander (quite hard work with that kind of wood), then use a band saw to cut out a "u-shape", which should contain the control surface (photo 2). If you don´t have access to these tools, a local woodworker can surely help you for not too much money (cutting the u-shape takes about 10 minutes). * Also, I decided to reuse the "temporary construction base" as a permanent one - it is invisible anyways - therefore I shortened it to about 8cm height and screwed it to the backside of the wood frame. I pre-drilled the wood with a 2mm drill and then installed normal wood screws (photos 3-5). * You can sand the hard wood at any time with a fine sanding paper (K240) to achieve a polished look (photo 6). * After installation below the keyboard, the SEQ now looks really fine (and is still missing a frontpanel, I know, but have grown used to it by now :-)).

Am not 100% sure, but pins 4 and 5 should be connected on the MB6582-side, so that +5V is accepted from any (or both) of these pins. Greets, Peter

That is one great looking unit! Congratulations! The yellow LCD looks fantastic on the black plexiglass.