technobreath

yeah, I could do that, and that was the plan originally... Maybe I should give it another thought then... EDIT: I have given it another thought, and I ordered some green smd leds. So, the trading bit of the post is off, but I will still buy waldorf knobs :)

Hey guys. I have 10 to 15 black/transparant Waldorf knobs. Would like to trade them with black/green ones (are there ever produced black/green ones? hehe). I need only 10 for my project, but I'll trade away all my transparant ones if u want em :). Send me a PM or answer this post if u have some of these. !!! I am also willing to buy 10 knobs if u want to do it that way instead of trading. I pay with Paypal only, in that case :). !!! Hope to hear from one of you :)

OK, I see what you mean :) I agree with your logic ;). I thought you were talking about two different things earlier on, but if the AIN can read the voltage across a potmeter, sure it will read voltage across such a matrix. I was just thinking if there was another way of doing it, but this way seems just as good as any...

Yo! It would've been great if u drew a schem on how u plan to wire it together... I don't know what u mean by the res. Matrix and how to wire it... But it might be just me having an early morning hehe. I love the b3 sound! Good luck with the build!

Oh shit, don't even start talking about this stuff! I have my cs pcb on my work bench now, and I haven't got a front panel yet, but all the tacts are soldered in place! :) Haha, and I can see there is many of the tactiles that is not in optimal position :P hehe. But I'll take that trouble when I get there. I have shit loads of tactile buttons in my drawer, so I guess desoldering a bunch of them shouldn't be any more trouble than the time it takes, and I guess, I have enough time ;). I need to get a quote on my frontpanel from julian soon, but the design isn't completely nailed yet, but I'm not laying another blub of solder on that cs board before I get the front panel hehe. Good luck on yours blatboy.

Now this is starting to look like something :D.

Hello :). That is what I thought, that the issues I am having is bcoz of slow scanning of the pot on the master keyboard... What you ask for, I'm not quite sure I undertstand though. I'm not sure what the 7 bit limit means for my setup, and u ask for I'm not sure what you ask for here, but what I can tell you about my test tonight is that I used my radium64 master keyboard to control an instance of Sylenth1 vsti in cubase. Being ages since I set up the keyboard for real, I used the learn function in the vsti to map one pot to the cutoff and one for the reso. Turning the knob made a very non-smooth transition in cutoff and reso, just as u would expect from a firmware that isn't allowed to scan the potmeter many times enough ;). Somehow I feel that this doesn't really answer ur question though :P. I'm not sure wich midi messages are sent to the synth now, since I used the learn function, and I haven't hooked up midiox or any other monitor to it to see what's going on. What should I do? Build the midibox64e with a core8 with confidence that this will solve these issues I'm having with the radium64, or do I need to go LPC? I have one of your pcb from the first bulk run, so i should be able to put that together if I need to, for now, the module is still incomplete on my bench, as it hasn't been a priority - but the lpc itself is programmed with the bootloader, so its ready to go :). So what should I do then? Build the core8 based, or should I provide more info (then what kind of info) before deciding? Thanks!

Yo, I'm getting more set on building a 64E nowdays. I have a masterkeyboard now (a radium64) that has some pots and sliders on it. This is really "slow". When I turn the pot - for example a pot assigned to cutoff, the realtime change in the sound is very very "steppy" if u know what I mean. I gotta move the pot really slow to get a even seamless reaction from the vsti. Is this gonna be the same in the 64E? Or is it just because the brain in the radium is just too slow? I really found a need today when playing my digital piano and combining it with analog synthesis with lowpass filtered pad. That sound is really really nice, but the latency or low resolution at high speed turning kinda ruins it for me. So I'm gonna need a portable controller (wich can be set on top of the stagepiano / digital piano in my studio) that is faster / has better "resolution" I guess... and also the possibility to attach a couple of expression pedals - controlling analogpad cutoff freq while playing the piano can be used to make some really nice and dynamic music! So, what's the verdict from those of u who know the midibox HUIs better than me? Will it be worth building this - will it behave? :)

no news, still lacking one transformer before I can give it life, and then I'll test it :). It's nothign fancy, just standard textbook / datasheet circuits, but with a few twists - an idea smashtv gave me, for example the leds on each rails - to safely drain the big caps on powerdown, also usefull for service work. I was hoping to implement some more stuff for controlling the rail current draw and also a IC based crowbar solution, but for now I just need to get my psu up'n go. My next psu will be all switch mode, since it's for non-musical midibox systems. Not sure wich app to use or if I should write some myself to get what I want. But I'm definetly finished with synth building for the next couple of years :). Exception would be the 4 ssm filters I have on their way in the mail atm.

As said in the status comment. Amazing stuff :)

How come I never heard of the PCA9635? Hmmmm... will make my project a weeeee bit easier!

Hehe, seems like nice vreg. I can see why you tested it with no heatsink, but that will of course only give the results we know from before, of course a 78xx will need a heatsink... Hehe Buy when it comes to the switching noiseless statement. I don't say you are wrong, but I need more scientific data than one person that says "it works fine" hehe, I will order one myself, build a test circuit and scope the thing myself, that is if pete isn't already on that hehe.

I miss to see your point here I think. What do you think happens if the vreg fails because of whatever reason, and it fails in a welded style? Wow, u get unregulated jumpy high voltage on your rail. What do you do? U regret u didn't throw a crowbar in there, coz that would kill the rail in an instant, and blow the fuse, and hopefully save as much as possible can be saved in both the load and psu. No? There are positive and negative with both. If a normal fuse blows, you gotta have it available to change it without having to open the psu case right? - or at least that's practical way to do it. If you use resettable fuses, if I got it right, they need cooling time after blown. And it's not really a circuit breaker / fuse, but close to it - when it trips, it makes the resistance through it so high that almost nothing can pass, but some. Someone will hit me on the head if I'm wrong, but this are things to be aware of. But resettable fuses are widely used in all kinds of electronics, so why not? :). Your choice :). Great clarification! Yeah pete, I remember I found some IC based solution a while back and fiddled a bit with it, but eventually put it on hold. The idea is that a zener diode solution as a referance voltage used to trip the thyristor is a bit unreliable because of heat and tolerances. It's kinda the same thing as using vreg ICs instead of a zener voltage regulator and a pass transistor. I suspect (as u say yourself) that both of the solution will work pretty good. I just finished up my 6582 powersupply - it got +/- 12V, 9V and 5 volt. All rails fused, all positive rails have crowbars. And I have been designing it with 2% tolerance zeners, and the zener voltage about .4 - .5 volts above normal rail voltage - that is the minimum zener voltage in the datasheet. So in reality the zener voltage is more like .4 to .8 volts above normal operational voltage. I have no idea if it works the way it's supposed to, but I'll try it out with some load and see what happens if I increase the voltage on the rails. Should give me a nice blown fuse pretty fast hopefully.

Close to that yes :). It's very far between the times I drink beer out (pubs etc) and a can of beer cost about 5 bucks, so if I drink moderate quantities of beer, and buy it on the supermarket instead of the pub - it's gonna be perfect with 30 bucks a month yes :). EDIT: And I have a brother in law that I help from time to time with mechanical work (cars and stuff) and he always pay me with a case of beer, hehe, so freebies are welcome :P

Mkay, quitting the smokes is just as easy as I expected. I have done it before, and back then, it was no problem at all. Just as back then, I decided one day that enough was enough (I smoked a lot back then) and I threw it away. Now smoke is pretty expensive in norway, so you do NOT throw away a half full pack unless you really decided u won't need it anymore :P. This time I went all anti-enviormentalist and threw half a 20pack out the window on my way home from work (in a place nobody could see me of course :P). This was thursday afternoon, and I really hasn't been feeling the urge for it. And if it's the same as last time, I won't feel the urge at all. So why start after quitting for so long (last time)? I started partially because I got bored, had some personal issues wich I tried to kill with smoking (it doesn't work more than 3 minutes - so don't do that... :)) Most of the latest period of smoking, I also did without anyone knowing. If people caught me smoking, I told em I had one every now and then, but the fact was that I had 10 each day. patethic yes. No doubt about it. But at the same time, it kept me from smoking more than I did ;). So when I sorta told people around me, I started to smoke more, so I guess I had about 15 each day now at the end (not comparable to the 25-30 I smoked before I quit last time) My point here is - I will be saving a lot of money from now on (yes it really is expensive to smoke in norway - about 20 USD for a 20pack with today's currency). That is 450 dollars in one month! Even now that I write it, I can't stop being amazed by it :). It is just stupid to think that I paid 400-450 USD a month for my bad health :P. Now, I am not becoming an anti-smoker-on-a-personal-crusade guy. I am not gonna start nagging on everyone I know who smokes. They can find out by themselfes, and honestly, I understand why people smoke - I just don't wanna do it anymore :). Quitting smoking also end a lot of my other bad habits. I rarely smoked at home with my wife and kid, so I used to take the car for a spin, park somewhere, smoke some, and also bought a softdrink or something, and not so very seldom that softdrink was combined with a chocolate or a pack of pringles or similar :P. Now that I quit smoking, I realize that the smoking was the main trigger to those other events. So now I'm gonna do a little calculation wich I have never done before - one month timeline: $450 for smoke. Could be more. $.5 for a ligher (approx.) $500 - 540 for softdrinks!! IM SHOCKED!! :shocked: $60 for chocolate $40 for chips (non electronic ones :)) $70 for lunch bought on the road These are a realistic summary of my bad habits regarding health... And I am :shocked: :shocked: The sum each month for unhealthy expenses is $1 120.50 wich is insane! Combine this with the fact that dinners are often expensive because the shopping is done while hungry, and far too often, and much of the time on impulse. It makes up for a nice sum of money. Now, I'm gonna live a normal life, so I'm gonna allow myself some of this in the future too: $50 for softdrinks $30 for beer $0 for smokes $5 for chips $20 for lunch (made at home) This is a completely other sum. And is very realistic too. (as I said many of the occations where I would buy this stuff go away by themselfes when I quit smoking): $105 Then the calculation that really matters: $1 120.50 - $105 wich equals something like $1 115.50. Hehe, This is a huge amount saved each month. Wich translates into following: (MIDIboxes I build anyway (so I don't list em here hehe) Saving one year will give me this: http://en.gtwallpaper.com/gt/honda/honda_delsol_05.jpg - wich I don't believe even if I see the numbers on the calculator. Translation: unbelievable! OR three of this: http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.php?ProductId=923 OR 12-13 of these: http://www.motu.com/products/motuaudio/8pre OK! NOW BOTH YOU AND ME GET THE IDEA. And I am both in shock and in awe, really... what should I do with those "new-found" money? I am gonna save some to have a buffer of "fuck-you-money", and I'm gonna buy myself a friggin honda del sol! :P :sorcerer: And as I said, midibox stuff I buy anyway :P but now I'm gonna buy more, and do it and have more money at the end of the month than I had before :) Nowdays, money means too much for us in the industrial world, no getting away from that, and since it is already so, I conclude that I have found a new motivation that is so strong that this CAN NOT be other than a success :D. Feel free to be shocked along with me, and have a nice day! And btw, after three days now, the cough is gone, and so is the strange noises when I breathe!

Wilba :) Time to let go of a couple of 2044 boards yet? :) hehe. Unless seppoman still has a couple of spares? :sorcerer: EDIT: Nevermind :) I did my own pcb, getting some protos made soon.