gslug
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Everything posted by gslug
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I didn't know there were yellow ones. +1 on some of those.
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Thanks from me too. I guess this is another excuse to build a second MB-6582...
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I don't know about the board, but regarding the USB connector, did you realise that the Neutrik panel mount ones are reversible - the actual connector has type A on one end and B on the other and can be removed from the housing and turned around. Kevin
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The 80017A time bomb has exploded. Another project for the to do list.
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poor juno - but there´s clone boards available :D
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or chemicals :)
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Chemicals first and if that doesn't work, attack of the clones!
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Jojjelito: I agree. Thinking about building a second one now so that I can have one MB-6582(well 8580) and one filthy MB-6581. -
Thanks guys! -
From the album: gslug's Midiboxes
The result of today's soldering. No LEDs as I haven't yet got a panel. -
is listening to early DM and firing up the soldering iron.
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i must say that one is close to nyan, but not 100% there :)
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Daniel Savio of Flogsta Danshall - Revolt
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greaat! really! :)
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Thanks again lylehaze. I like the idea of using inverters with schmitt triggers. I'll get some parts and have a play on a breadboard. Kevin
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Thanks lylehaze. I need to think about this.....:frantics: -
Thanks lylehaze. I based the schematic on the relevant part of the MIDIbox LTC module: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ltc.html, so figured that it would be OK. Do you have any suggestion as to how to protect the inputs of the gates? Thanks, Kevin
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Just clicked "Submit" on Mouser. Already tred of waiting...
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Order done on Wednesday... Still waiting, 5 days later... I'm closer to their warehouse than anyone else chatting here. USPS IS REALLY bad! (at least my post office.. Packages literally disappear for days here.. Maybe Im on some sort of list, and 'the man' is inspecting all of my boxes personally for me, or something..)
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Arrived yesterday.
@Wicked1: It isn't just USPS - Royal Mail can be pretty good at loosing things for days or even months...
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Yay, finally just got them.
The 4006's are each in their own static proof bag with static warnings all over them, and then all of those are put in one of Mousers standard anti-static mylar bags. Guess they know these cips are extra sensitive.
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I am also looking to add activity LEDs. I have come up with a schematic based on the LTC module, but with what I assume are unnecessary parts removed. Could someone please confirm that this is all I need. Thanks, Kevin
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From the album: gslug's Midiboxes
A circuit based on the LTC module, with the sole purpose of providing TX/RX leds. -
Yes, it is Wilba's control surface PCB. Kevin
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Thanks Smash. I have ordered the PCB, but I'll keep my name on the list. Two Seqs are better than one!:D Kevin
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Thanks Hawkeye
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From the album: gslug's Midiboxes
The best part of a year after building my MB-6582 and I have finally installed the last of the SIDs. It has 4x 8580s and 4x 6581s. At some point in the future I plan to build a second one and have one all 8580 and the other all 6581. -
I have one of these: http://www.modu.it/slimlineeng.html and it seems pretty well built.
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Looks good! -
Last week analogue, this week digital. Just got a DX7. Still can't stop playing with the JP-6 though.
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Next week skint! Maybe next month...
Looking for a CR-78 now.
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Building mode. Can't buy more gear until Autumn... Oh the humanity!
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hehe J. I miss my stolen dx7. If I knew who took it from me someone's balls would roll ;).
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This seems to be pretty common. Mine was the same. One of the pitfalls of Ebay LCDs is the lack of documentation!
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Don't connect 12V back to the switch. It will not work and will destroy your switch and probably the PSU too. The switch contacts are rated for 250V, but the bulb is only for 12V. You cannot use this switch illuminated unless you are only switching low voltage - which you are not. You can either use it without illumination, or get another switch. The similar RRA22H3BBREN has a bulb rated for 250V and will work with Hawkeye's schematic. Please be careful! I still think you should use USB power or a wall wart....
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I'm inclined to agree with ilmenator and Hawkeye. With mains power, if you aren't 100% sure what you are doing, don't do it. You could fry your Seq and everything connected to it, or you could fry yourself or start a fire. Go with USB power, or if that isn't enough how about a wall-wart?