smashtv

Don't take my comment for more than it says. I have no problem with the people there, but I had bad problems with the postal service. The guys who lost packages were patient and understanding, making me like the Dutch people even more than I did before. But most definitely yes unreliable postal service.....losing 4 out of 10 airmail parcels there qualifies that comment. It's great that you have not lost anything yet, but other people there did. I need you to understand that I'm not happy about being forced to use a more expensive shipping option just to be sure that a box gets there......and the more I have to hear about it/think about it the more unhappy I become......the less energy/time I have for any of this. SmashTV

So what you are saying is you expect me to take the risk of sending packages off to -your- country's known unreliable postal system so you can save a buck? Nice. What happens if your cheap mail does not get there? You get a refund/chargeback from your credit card, and I lost rent money trying to make you happy. Right, and it was between me and him, so why has it become your business to talk about in public? Even though people DID NOT READ MY DIRECTIONS, and placed orders without contacting me for a quote first, I took care of them. Now people are expecting me to clean up thier order mess later on my time after not READING THE DIRECTIONS CLEARLY POSTED IN THIS THREAD and just ordering 25 of whatever looks shiny. The Netherlands seems to be generating a lot of bullshit for me lately, is it time to take it off the list to avoid the mess and whining? It makes no sense for me to offer something that is obviously making you so unhappy. I'm sorry you had to wait, etc. but at this point I see no reason to deal with you at all. SmashTV

Hi all! Sorry for the long wait, and the lack of updates from me. The 6582 Base and CS boards are in and available on my order page. Base kits are soon to follow. I have quite a few kits made up only awaiting PICs. No rest for the JDM. ;) I'll talk more about the kits when I put them up on the order page. Unfortunately I lost or had very long customs delays with parcels sent to quite a few countries with Airmail, so I had to switch to Express Mail for those countries. If you are needing boards only and are in an 'Express only' country let me know, flat mailers are cheaper than will show up on the order page. Thanks for your patience and best regards SmashTV

Hi Thomas.... Your order is a complete nightmare for me for several reasons: 1) Hotmail. I'm seeing your emails, are you are not seeing my replies? Please get a real email account that is not filtering your messages if you expect a response. I wrote them, but I don't own the connection between here and there or the hotmail servers. Please check your spam folder. Hotmail has known reliability and filtering issues. 2) Three party ordering. I insured this one in "Richard B.'s" name, so it will have to be him that signs the insurance waiver etc. I usually reject orders like this (considering the problems it creates if there is an issue) but you did not give me that chance....It was already out the door before I realized there was something not quite right about it. 3) Last mile services. Did you ask your postal service about it? How about your customs service? Did you follow up on that later? It's likely they held it locally for a while then trashed it. You can't tell me "If the delivery-guy gave it to my neighbours, the package is lost, because the're complete crackheads...." in a message then assume I can work it all out from this end. You are the importer of record. I can't ring the crackheads doorbell or go to your post office or customs service for you. I really don't mean to sound hostile or angry about this...I'm not, but I need you to think about the position you put me in before you wonder out loud here on the forum whether I am trustworthy or not. I'll try my Gmail account to send you the waiver that needs signed for the insurance claim (maybe hotmail won't filter Gmail as much) and we'll move on from there. As for your suggestion of parcel replacement via alternate address, I'm going to pass until we can do this without the issues listed above. The risk of major issues and communication problems is far to great. I simply don't need the stress. Back to the kit mill. SmashTV

Hi Gzifcak! I have seen a couple of builds where a panel mounted power inlet jack connects one side of the wall wart power supply to the enclosure, and the pots (mounted to same enclosure) tied the chassis to system ground, etc. (symptoms vary based on the pots, the power jack, whether power pack is AC or DC out, etc.) I have also seen similar symptoms caused by lack of isolation between the CORE and PC via the MIDI interface.....Some PC power supplies are so noisy that if you tie the CORE ground to the PC ground it wont even boot (Switch mode power supplies used in PC's are typically high noise/ripple). I won't even get into the ground differential issues present with separate linear and switch mode supply grounds tied together. ;) That said does is there anything that changes the symptoms? Do you have a display on it so you can disconnect MIDI to the PC and see if things change? What kind of power jack are you using (if any)? Are the pots mounted in a metal enclosure/panel and is that grounded to anything else (sitting on other gear)? Sometimes with similar symptoms it's more about other things that are connected to the same ground than anything else you might have done wrong during the build. I'm thinking you probably have everything not used grounded at CORE:J5 already, but keep in mind if your app is trying to read hardware that isn't there or not properly grounded it might act up like this. If using only two multiplexer chips all but the first two analog input lines on J5 should be tied to ground....sorry if I'm repeating advice already written. ;) Best regards SmashTV

Hi Frank! It was not Thorsten who moved it, it was me....Trying to keep things on-topic and where they belong (I put it in the Fleamarket). Best Regards SmashTV

Sorry Yanoo Poland is one of a few countries that I can't get parcel insurance for. Best regards SmashTV

Using two optocouplers while linking the cores via J11 causes random data. From the CORE page: J11: MIDI digital IO port, interface to the LED/Thru/COM module. Can also be used to cascade multiple core modules in a long MIDI chain (see MIDIbox Link). Note: Don't plug the optocoupler (IC2, 6N138) into the socket when using the J11:MI (MIDI-IN) pin as an input, otherwise the Rx input will get the data from two different sources, which is not provided by the MIDI protocol (point-to-point). A MIDImerger is necessary to combine multiple MIDI IN sources. In other words: when using the COM module or when connecting the J11:MO of one core module to J11:MI of another core module, or when connecting the core module directly with the Gameport, the optocoupler of the other module should not be plugged into the socket to avoid a corrupted MIDI data stream. Best regards SmashTV

Fuji S700, stock lens, set to auto+super macro, lens ring touching the board (I cropped that shadow out of these). Jury still out on that one, If I can make a good enough explanation of how to correct it they might not be re-tasked as business cards, but I would really like to fix this and the differences in part designation between my board and the official release. LMAO ;D ;D Best regards SmashTV

A quick trace rework, complete with bad photos! : First scrape away the a bit of the green soldermask to expose the copper underneath. A hobby knife works well for this, but almost anything with a straight edge will work, like a small flat-tip screwdriver. The soldermask is brittle and will scrape away easily. Grab a cut resistor lead and clip it down to stretch between the pads. Tin one pad with a small amount of solder. Hold the jumper wire in place with pliers heat the wire with the iron just long enough for it to reflow the solder on the pad. Let it cool for a minute. Heat other end and just long enough to flow some solder into the connection. At this point you can use a small screwdriver to hold it down while you clean up the soldering/flux....as you can see I solder like a drunken monkey so you might not need as much cleanup as I do. :) I'm working on a correction rev now, to be run asap. Best regards SmashTV

Yes....I'm working on a full report on the error and some macro photos of how to easily fix it now. I will post the whole mess this afternoon here, and edit my OPL info page to match. The short answer: This trace feeds a test pin (TST1) 5v used only in the manufacturing process for the chip. I'm wondering if the module works fine with that pin left floating/unconnected for most people? (since the error has gone un-noticed for so long) Obviously I'll be tossing these in the bin and creating a new layout with TST1 tied high as called for in the datasheet and correct the legends to match the official schematic and -possibly- changing it over to a CORE sized double sided layout with easier interconnect to the CORE. This was not a dirty photoplot at the PCB fab etc....The .brd file I fed the CAM processor in Eagle shows a normal solid trace, but the gerber files the CAM processor kicked out have this dashed line.....Most likely the reason e-testing on these did not catch the issue, since the e-test files are derived from the gerber layout. :( To be continued later today...... My apologies for the error, hopefully it has not caused anyone to question their sanity :-\ Best regards SmashTV

Trying to understand what is missing here, how does this FPGA synth list archive link relate to a discussion on DSP eval boards? Trying to follow along, keep on same page etc. Help me out with a little more than a one liner please. Best SmashTV

Whoa Cosmosuave, great photos! I see what might be a problem, hoping I am just seeing things.... I'm looking at the 2200µ (larger capacitor) in this photo: It looks like it's backwards (negative/positive swapped) and swelling up. Please check the polarity before you power it up again, capacitors get messy and very loud (think .22 shell fired at close proximity/no earplugs) when they let loose and go ballistic. I should have some spares in the floor sweepings bucket, ping me if you need one! Best Regards and thanks for the kind words! SmashTV

Knowingly in possession of infringing works, and unwilling to admit that puts you at odds with the law. Almost. I'll have this whole thread with me when we face the judge. Feel free to save further comments for when we are under oath.

From the front page: "Non-commercial DIY" and "Copyright © 1998-2008, Thorsten Klose. All rights reserved." Flavio did not have the right to sell you that box because it contains firmware he does not own. We will deal with mr. Mireles separately via copyright infringement proceedings. He's mistakenly thinking copyright law does not apply to him, and he will learn an expensive lesson about this in court. He's been warned, you must understand he -knowingly- ripped you off. Why are you defending this with some talk of rep or ethics? Buying the box from him was mistake number one. It happens, even smart people get the shaft sometimes. Hopefully you can get your money back, subpoenas can be a real time drain. Mistake number two was demanding support from an all volunteer community. Again: we did not take your money, we owe you absolutely nothing. Support is reserved for people who can read the rules. This is the equivalent of asking Microsoft for support for a pirate copy of windows. What do you expect the reaction to be? Helping you opens the floodgates to us supporting these poor quality illegal boxes Flavio is making. To legally own a MIDIbox requires that you pick up a soldering iron and put parts on a board. Anything else breaks the "non-commercial" rule. Try as you might, there are no weasel words to get around this simple concept. SmashTV

Did Doug not explain DIY only, noncommercial, etc. when you tried to get him to work on it?

In the interest of clarity and signal to noise ratio, I'm moving offtopic/thread hijack messages here.

Ok so lets clear up a fact: You did not know when you bought it, but you knew before you asked for help here right? Maybe Doug Wellington could help clear this up a bit for us?

Man your signal to noise ratio is getting really bad here.Help me out here by selecting an option below: A) trying to raise post count B) trolling C) posting drunk To avoid revisionist history edits: If the bottle has you doing things you are sorry for, it's time to put it down bud. :-\

10.5 will make the voltage regulator work a bit harder, but it should work fine. Thank you for paying attention! I'm seeing way too many people lately try it anyway regardless of reading high or low voltage. :) This sounds like you are connecting the PSU to J2 rather than J1. J1=power input, J2=post regulator power output (and is tied to all of those test points that should be showing 5V) The - pin on the rectifier just looks like it goes nowhere....no trace on the solder side, but it's connected directly to the ground plane on the top side....the center pin on the regulator/7805 connects to the same ground plane. Nope. No bridges/jumpers required on my COREs. Ping me if it's not making 1980's noise at you soon. ;D Best Regards SmashTV

In the interest of clarity and some basic manners (don't hijack threads) what are you trying to say here? I honestly don't understand. If this is a response to some other thread I'm not aware of let me know so I can move it there, if it's a random statement that does not belong here please clarify so I can delete it. No hostility intended, but the chat is for shifting topic gears without the clutch, not the forum. Best Regards SmashTV

Good....Bye!

Bahh you are just misplacing your anger at getting screwed. We didnt take your money, you didnt pay us. Take it up with the guy who did. Now run on back to SDIY or wherever this 5 year old attitude is accepted. (be sure to tell them how mean we are, maybe we can keep the whining away a little longer)

hehe ;) Robert that is not a problem, check your private messages. Best Regards SmashTV

Interesting! I noticed "(also available as separate OEM chips for volume users)" in the datasheet, the chip looks like a standard PLCC package, those have DIY friendly through hole sockets available.... TK and the other coders need to weigh in on this one....I'm just a simple hardware guy.... :) Best Smash