doc

Oh, sorry, you're right with this values. I don't know the current until then. For the diodes: Why don't you choose a "bigger" rectifier or diodes with higher load? eg. B80C3700 (3.7A) or B80C5000 (5A), or if you prefer diodes: BY251 (3A) or P600A (6A) How much current delivers your transformer ? greets Doc

Hi, just to simplify your design a little bit ... (only a suggestion) ... sorry for the drawing. Not enough time to make it on CAD. You don't need the second rectifier then. You also can save some caps. The values of the caps are just suggestions. The only thing is, as mentioned before, if the 12V input AC are enough to drive the 7812. greets Doc

Hi, Just a thought I want to report to you... I don't know jorgan, but I know midisport 2x2. In several forums (e.g. steinberg.net) users report latency (and other) problems with the midisport 2x2 USB Interface. Just a hint. If you have the possibility, try another USB-Midi Interface. Perhaps the latency proplems are gone then. greets Doc

Hi, I know what you mean....but the legacy MS20 Controller does not have a midi out. If you want to modify this, you have three possibilities: 1) You can build a midibox (this means: destroying your controller and reuse the case). The benefit: You can design your controller as you like. But you might lost some features from your Korg Controller. 2) You can try to modify the USB Device of the legacy MS20 Controller. This may be possible if you know which USB Controller is inside and if you are able to "Crack" it. Normally you won't be able to do this, because you must have the sourcecode from Korg. I'm pretty sure this can't be done. Actual Industrial design normally don't let you enough room for modifikations like this. 3) You can look inside (like jimhenry suggest) and check how the keyboard is connected. Perhaps there is a way to midify the legacy MS20 twice. Means you can leave the original controller as it is and build a additional midikeyboard (midicontroller) around it. I think, this would be the best way, without destroying the controller. greets Doc

Sorry for being Off-Topic .... Yes, you can go to the beer tent by having a wireless switch for the reset ... 8) :o greets Doc

Hi, just a sidenote.... The zoom button works quite great under Cubase with Mackie protocol ! (... I use it almost every day ... ;D) greets Doc

Hi, ... it depends a little bit on what you are doing with the LC. If you like to have, for example, 2 Mackie Clones (Master / Slave) with a host program, it is not necessary to link the two cores. You'll have to connect each core to a seperate Midi Port then. greets Doc

great! Have a lot of fun with it! 8) greets Doc

Hi, If one DIN is working alone and if nothing works after connecting a second one ... thats the first step ... You're on the right way. Just change the ICs from the one DIN to the other and check again. If it is the same board making trouble you surely have somewhere a short between the SC and the RC line. If the "damaged" board is working after the IC change then you have a faulty IC. Hope you'll get it run soon. greets Doc

... Yeah. Sometimes its hard ... ;) Some reminders before you*re going nuts : You should always disconnect the hardware from power before changing anything! Hope this reminds you. This is a bad test, because you might blow the ICs by reversing them. You can easily check the buttun with a OHM-meter (Don't know the right word in english. The meter you can measure resistance). It is also possible (as you might already know) to check the Dins with a short cable connected to ground. Just tip on the DIN Pin you want to test. Do you always test at the same In or dou you check all the Ins of the DIN? As said before: You only get a midi signal by testing none of the menu navigation Pins. Thats why I always try the ain64_din128_dout128_v1_3 application first. There's no menu and every DIN pin gives feedback to the lcd. So, after reading all your tests I only can tell you (what all others here might also tell...): Double check soldering & wireing. measure & pray that your ICs are still alive after reversing them. greets Doc

It depends a little bit on the application you've loaded. I didn't read anything about your MIOS Application. You've already loaded MIOS and a Application on the CORE ? Which One? If you load the ain64_din128_dout128_v1_3 you have all DINs connected. In that case, when you press a button you'll see the DIN#Pin on the display, also the status (1 pressed, 0 released).

Hi, I hope I get you right: You have nothing connected to Si of J9 (CORE) ? I'm sure that you have to connect Si from J9 of the CORE to Si J1 of your first DIN. In schematic words: Pin RD1 of the PIC (Si) must go to the first DIN IC 74HC165 PIN 9. If you don't connect the first HC165 right, the others won't work also. Take a close look on the schematics of DIN and Core. greets Doc

Hi, I'm pretty sure, you won't need relays ! The outputs of the ULN2803 are switching a "ground" signal. So you just need to connect the Outs of the driver to your mute switch of the analog desk. Just give it a try with maybe one ULN2803. Such an amount of relays is surely not useful if you can avoid it. And ... don't worry about the programming. It is well documented in the source files. In your case you just have to change several numbers and remarks. Thats all. greets Doc

This is the easiest part .... ;D Just start reading at http://www.ucapps.de Check out the box you're interessed in and then follow the links provided in. After understanding the concept, plan your own box and search in the wiki or the forum for point-of-interests. greets Doc

better

I've used the Stereo ALPS Fader. Don't know the specific Part Nr anymore. I gave them away after the experiment. I didn't build it around an existing console. I've builded a analog mixer myself around the digital project. In your case, if I get you right, you want to put the fader in an existing console. This would be quite easier to mention. The big boys are following a big book of designing rules to get rid of noise problems. In our case, we have to trial and error .... 8) If you mention to build it into an existing mixer you should try it. Perhaps the noise isn't that bad in that case. I would try to build the MF-Module as mentioned in the last post and I would also pay attention where to put the core. As silly as it sounds: The core is a oscillator! Do you have concrete plans? Which console? Which functions? How do you want to control the digital part? greets Doc

Oh, I never tried it .... Normally you needn't but it depends a little bit on the angle of the LEDs. Just try it. greets Doc

Hi, I have experimented on that some time ago. I replaced 8 Motorfaders in my LC with Dual-Faders and build a analog moxer around the 8 tracks. I gave up this project for the following reasons: - I found out, that controlling Cubase (in my case) is enough. I have 24 outs and ins which I can control this way. - I always had problems with NOIZE. There is a lot of digital stuff around the analog part and you will hear it. If you'll build a analog box be sure to have the analog part strictly seperated from the digital part. I also tried to put the fader in the mixer and the Midibox Part outside. Then you'll have problems with the length of the cabels between the MF module and the Faders. I always get random midi signals if the cable was larger than 50cm. A possible solution for this problem would be: Host every MF-Driver IC directly beneath the Fader and connect the drivers with a shielded cable to the Shift Registers. (I never tried it ...). I also suggest to seperate the 5V supply to the digital part with DC-DC coupler. You also must seperate the ground lines then. Don't get me wrong. It is still an interesting project. But you should know, that there are several problems to solve. Hope you'll get ist ! greets Doc

Hi, the LEDs are useful, if you want to know if there is a signal on the channel or not. In my case (yes, they are working with Cubase 3.x !!) I can see if there is a midi-Signal on the midi tracks and I see the audio level as well on audio tracks. The output isn't really exact but you can see very quick how much signal there is on a specific channel But you'll have to know: It is more an optical hint than a measure instrument. Of course, the "disco inferno" is also a good argument to have these controls ! (-; If you just want a "control" function (signal or not), just glue two or three leds together (for example: low signal=green / High Signal=yellow / clip=red). It isn't as much effort than the whole LED Bargraph but you almost have the same funktions. greets Doc

Hi, I'm sure you mean the DOUT .... The max. current of the IC is 15-20 mA per Output. It depends slightly on the type of leds you are using. Normally nothing should happen if you'll connect two Leds on one output (They are getting a bit darker, b.t.w). If you want to make sure you won't fry anything, measure the current (between the IC Pin and the resistor). If the output is not more than 15 mA, you are safe ... greets Doc ... back in the ring ... /Baby break/

Thanks Smash, now it's clear ... First I thought I have to change my confession .... greets Doc

I also want to know ..... What is "karma" ???? greets Doc

.. what do you mean with "export" ?? greets Doc

Hi, I think you could get in trouble using the heater circuit for other applications: The pre-heating of the tubes (I think it was 6,3 V ??) emittes through all tubes. So you have to take care that no noise (you will have digital noise) goes through the tubes. I don't know much about the newest tube-circuits. But in older circuits you always had noise problems with the heat-cables (Thats why they were drilled and routed seperately). Do you really have 15V for the pre-heat or do you speak of different taps ? If you have only 6,3 V ~ for the heating you'll have another problem to get 5V = out of it: the voltage is too low. The overall power consumption is not very high but depends mostly on the 4 relais. What are the current values of those coils ? Do you know more about the 15V tap ? How many current can it drive ? Just an idea: You can use a DC/DC coupler (is it the right word in english?) for the midibox (But you must know then how much current your circuit needs. The couplers greater than 3W are relative expensive). Benefits: Absolutely no coupling between the circuits. greets Doc

.... YES, THEY ARE !! ::) The most significant reason for this behaviour is, that most Hardware people are knowing what they do ..... they make their own faults with their knowledge. If they don't know a thing - they ask the community. Mostly they get help. Software people are mostly trying to compense their "un-knowledge" by critisizing the software ??? ... thats what i think ... greets DOC