stryd_one

Those would be dodgy knobs. There should always be a bit of 'give' in them, because of the need for a margin of error - no pot/encoder shafts are exactly the same in every manufacturer, every model, every batch made... That's one reason why metal knobs (and good quality hard plastic ones such as milspec knobs) have set screws. You'll find that good quality hard plastic knobs have ~0.5 mm 'ribs' inside them, to give them that extra bit of 'give' without making them feel like a sloppy fit... or some other kind of method to give them some room. The P401 knobs have a different kind of plastic on the inside, for example. Sadly these kind of features make for a more expensive knob, so it's not always that way... Sometimes they just don't fit, as you've found. But they *should*, so it's worth a shot :)

Sasha is genius at this stuff. FYI I have tried the sticker-stencil method. I used an old dotmatrix printer hacked up with no ink, so that the print head pin was actually perforating the sticker (and the roller as I discovered afterwards, oops!). Works well, good accuracy, much cheaper than laser (unless you're sasha) . However, You should keep in mind that your can control is pivotal in such things. If you put down a layer of paint which is thicker than the sticker, you're boned - the paint holds the sticker on, and removing it removes the paint. The trick is to make VERY light coats, and layer them up until they reach the required height. Take the can back about 1.5 feet, and wipe over it as fast as your arm can move, just to put down a 'mist' of paint. Too little just means it needs another coat when it's dry. Too much means you're boned. Anyway, that's better for painting small areas like indexes and panel lines (like on MB6582) and not so hot for painting everything except a small area (a mask like what you want) If you're doing that, what you want to do, is to glue a small 'handle' onto the sticker before you place it, so that you have a way to remove the sticker after you paint up to it's edges. Another handy hint, is to use stickers with a 'gummy' kind of glue. You need to remove it slowly so that it leaves no residue, but it allows you to do a little trick. When the paint is near-dry, you can give the sticker a tiny 'wiggle' (just push down on it and twist a bit), which breaks the 'tack' on the edge of the paint, and makes the sticker easier to remove. But, if you got the cash, laser CNC is definitely best!

Less knobs, less space, less cost, easier accessibility, segregation of similar controls, easier use.... Should I go on? :D Maybe you thought I meant memory paging or something? That's not what I meant, I meant as in , there are knobs 1-8. In page 1, they act as controls 1-8, in page 2, they act as controls 9-16, page 3, 17-24, etc etc etc. You don't need (or want, in most cases) a physical knob for every control you want!

Anyone can add them :) Go for it!

@flemming: Just read that earlier post of yours that everyone was talking about. Not happy. You missed the point, and if I explain it here, people will just complain about my post, so I guess you'll just have to go on missing the point.

Yeh... very unlikely / almost impossible that a dodgy midi interface would cause the core to reboot (if the mios+app uploads were successful in smart mode) I thought maybe wrong PIC, but then the test tone app would not make any sound... or skipped components you thought you didn't need (once someone skipped the diode)... or maybe LCD wired for 8bit (don't think it's that if you have no LCD heh) I know you tried two PSUs and it is unlikely that both have failed, but maybe it's some other component (cap, regulator, rectifier) causing a BOR or something... Try testing the voltage while it runs...does it stay at 5V the whole time even when it reboots? Does the regulator get hot? You asked about the 5V before... yes, the core and SID modules should both get the same 5V power. I dunno... If the power is really all OK, It's mighty strange that, while running only with core and sid modules in place, the test tone app works, and makes sound and all, every time... and yet the SID app dies. That almost certainly rules out a hardware error, because the sid app doesn't do much with the hardware that the testtone app does not. We know it's not a software issue because it's well proven (I assume you haven't modified the code in any way and are using a precompiled hex file?)... That points at a bad PIC. Personally I wouldn't cough up for a new midi interface at this point. Unless you need a good excuse to give the wifey or something :D

yeh basically, your ISP encourages abuse. You'll have to take it up with them :( That said, the efnet page says your IP is NOT banned, so maybe you should take it up with mibbit.com also.

Oh I have the same beef man. The timber situation is dire, and getting worse. At least they're replacing it with bluegum there, here the standard replacement is an introduced pine tree that's so bloody far from the same quality level as the jarrah they cut down, it's a joke; plus the native animals can't use it the same way, and it helps the introduced species of animals, and doesn't behave the same way as native timber, seasonally speaking, etc etc etc. But yaknow, if they grow *something* in place of the thousand year old forests they cut down, they can say they're being "green". Pff, yeh right. Everyone believes it though... No, you're right, that's a soapbox for another thread before we go waaay offtopic )

Nice. American, Aussie, and Malaysian timber. Very multicultural ;)

it should definitely have dropped out at 4.3V. Something is weird....

200 knobs? Why no paging scheme? If you want real VU meters, then google around for some DIY audio sites, if you want bar graphs that will display 'something sent via midi', there is info around here. (not great amounts of it, but it's there) There is no 'plain english' info on the BLM's inner workings, but if you write it, there will be ;)

What happened with current versions? Error messages, etc would be nice :)

Either is good, mine is user-specific, this' is system-wide :)

That was very creative but there is an easier way: edit ~/.profile add these lines: (edit the paths to match yours, this is just a paste of my temporary setup) export MIOS_PATH=~/_mios/mios/trunk export MIOS_BIN_PATH=$MIOS_PATH/bin export MIOS_SHELL=/bin/bash Save, then enter this command: (makes your changes take effect immediately0 . ./.profile

Good call max. Yeh keep us posted! Dont worry about hammering the server, we'll let you know if you go there. (although, it makes sense to resize the big images a bit, for ease of use)

The blog links all the other sites :) It's run by all the frequent writers and programmers and admins.

Hmm, with an opto in there even if it is failing it will avoid a ground connection to the PC's PSU, so that hum is probably not related to the opto. You may be right about the grounding. It's possible but unlikely that the PSU is playing a part... Good luck with the opto!

You guessed correctly :) With the smash kit you just open the bag and solder the components in the right place, that should be all.

*facepalm* i missed something - the cables... better try a switcheroo there too.... Try two of them, with just the PC connected direct to the MBSID, and then just the controller direct to the MBSID (so, four tests all up). That should eliminate or expose a few problems.

Thanks man, no problem. Gotta watch out for posting email addresses (including your own of course) on the web, cause it just feeds the spambots :( Anyway, it wasn't there for long - thanks! :) Edit: FYI, you have to be a forum member to get the email address from the side panel, so you don't need to worry about that one, because the spam bots usually don't log in. Usually :/

LOL!!

Nice of you to make an introduction too :)

Email? It is (usually) possible to read the contents of an EEPROM to a file, so you might be able to grab a copy from one of the good machines.

LOL. Impressive, yet, crazy :D

I'll chase it up.