nebula

I hate it when MIDIboxers miss out on deals like this, so I put it in my status (so it will appear on the main forum page). Good find, woolsey!

The Optrex displays from the bulk order a few years ago were excellent. They were only blowing them out because they weren't lead-free.

I have no idea if plated brass will stick as well as aluminum spacers. My aluminum spacers still won't let go. Prior to jb-welding, I did degrease them by soaking in some isopropyl alcohol just to be sure.

The LEDs I used for my MB-6582 had similar lumps on the leads. As I recall, the little lumps were small enough that they still fit through the thru-holes in the PCB, so they were irrelevant. When it comes time to solder the LEDs, you'll want the front panel attached and propped above the surface you're working on so that the LEDs can just fall into the holes on the panel and protrude a bit beore you solder them. The LEDs in the auction look like they'll do this nicely. My LEDs have a similar pale tint (but green instead of red) and IMHO they look awesome in the MB-6582. So I think these look like a worthwhile buy ... but make sure you fire them up before you build with them.

A Jellinghaus-style programmer would be a bigger project, but I think it would be simpler to implement as a MIDIbox than to try to replicate the behaviour of a DX7 front panel.

So ... The update as of Jan. 21 is that the pots are on the way. Is there any estimate regarding when they will arrive? I'd like to pay off the balance ASAP, to help you ship out kits (and recover funds you've been floating) as soon as the pots arrive.

I use the Pulsar system as well and have never had success getting traces that small. You make me want to try again though - I just got my hands on a different laser printer, so maybe I'll try one more time- the "new" one is a LaserJet 4 series, the old one is an ancient Apple Personal Laserwriter 300. Can't wait to see your finished box. Thanks for blogging!

I like the look of your control surface! Are you going to have enough room for your Core, DINs and DOUTs in that box? For the past couple weeks I've been working on a small MB-808 control surface as well. My enclosure is a little Hammond box with a 6.5" x 5.5" control surface. I like to etch boards myself, so I laid out all my buttons on a single-sided board, with numerous headers to connect it sammich-style to a custom DIN/DOUT board. I've spent a lot of time laying out this DIN/DOUT board, and I think I'm going to scrap it. Too many ICs on one board combined with my home-etch design rules (FAT traces, single-sided), and it is MESSY! Plus I think I'll be 2 hours just drilling the damn thing. So now, instead of home etching I think I'll get my board fabbed by this fine gent at Dorkbot ( http://www.dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order ). Since I have much more PCB density at my disposal, I plan to put my buttons and LEDs on the same board as my DIN/DOUT. To fit in the available space, I will probably use SOIC (surface mount) shift registers.

I was thinking about doing exactly that. Just to clarify: you mean your MB-6582 is set up for the C64 power supply option, and you feed 12VDC into your MB6582 where it's supposed to get 9VAC, right? I wonder if you could do the same with a C64.

You are quite mistaken. Most musicians I know have an emotional attachment to their instrument. I don't think I've ever had a bandmate who didn't, no matter what they play.

I am laying out a board with multiple DINs and DOUTs. I'm pretty sure I can do this, but thought I'd ask ... can I connect unused DIN pins directly to the 5V rail with no resistor?

Maybe we could get a Toughbook bulk order happening!

I think it's a really cool idea. I remember back in the early to mid 1980's I read a review in Keyboard Magazine for a stange app for the Apple II called "Modzilla" from "Pomme de Terre Software". All the app did is provide numerous software LFOs, which could be set to control different parameters on a Juno-106 via Sysex. I still remember reading about it almost 30 years later as I was just learning about MIDI, which was new at the time, and the reviewer took a little time to speculate on how cool little programs like this, combined with MIDI, will revolutionize the way we work with electronic instruments. Anyway ... Do you think it might be more appropriate to start with the MB-SID app, which already has 6 simultaneous LFOs and 2 ADSRs? It's already equipped to send via AOUT, so perhaps the app could be modified to send the mod values from each source to MIDI OUT, at specific intervals.

Oh, I will correct myself after looking more closely at the pic - the flexi-fit knobs are not like the P300. They're like the P311. My bad ... they're still awesome though...

http://www.reanknobs.com/index.php?id=25 I have a sample pack that I got a few years ago with one insert and the 3 sizes of knob cap. They have the same look and feel as the P300 line, but they have that universal fit insert. Brilliant. Anyway I asked for the price, minimum quantity, and lead time on the part number you provided. I'll let you know, but I expect the price to be outrageous!

Yeah, I took those pictures. The Canadian distributor can get anything from Re'an (subject to factory minimum orders) for shipping to Canadian addresses. So I bought a bunch of P401's for a big bulk order, and I later helped Wilba get a few thousand P401's for sequencers and Sammiches. The P401's had a 1000 piece minimum, if I recall correctly. Given a complete part number I can get a quote for you, including the minimum quantity, which is most definitely going to be more than you need. Something to consider: the "F" (flexifit) series is really awesome. The insert allows you to orient the knob in any direction relative to a d-shaft, and will also fit on splined shafts. REALLY nice if you are forced to use mismatched pots and/or encoders in a DIY build. Just sayin'.

@technobreath: The C64 (and MB-SID in "optimized psu" configuration) adds the regulated 5VDC and unregulated 9VAC, then regulates the result at 12 VDC to power the 6581.

Hmmm, your original link still doesn't work for me! But the problem with the TE2257-ND is that a single winding provides only 1.38 amps. Also, with a toroid, I am concerned about the different loading on the two windings. Admittedly I don't have experience with such things, so I hope it works perfectly for you. It certainly would be a nice option. Keep us posted!

Broken link - can you re-post?

^^ if i were you i would follow the instructions in the initial post asap (by adding your name to the linked wiki page). phunk will let you know if you're too late.

OUCH! That might just be the motivation I need! So sorry about your loss. Digikey also sells a dual 9V toroid for a little cheaper than the upright hammond, and they have 17 in stock. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=237-1337-ND The datasheet however warns "Primary and secondary windings are designed to be connected in series or parallel. Windings are not intended to be used independently." Having never used a toroid before I'll admit this gives me the creeps a bit, since I plan to disobey this little warning. Maybe I'd be better off sticking with good ol' Canadian-made Hammond. The Electro Sonic site (www.e-sonic.com) is down atm but the Hammond 266M18 is around $42 CAD there, with a lead time of 3 days. http://www.hammondmfg.com/266.htm

It's been a glimmer in my eye for a long time ... the hardest part has been finding a cost-effective transformer. I want dual 9V windings (or I suppose one 9 volt and one anywhere from 7-10 volts), at 2 amps or better. Hammond has one (266M18), but here in Canada it's over 40 bucks just for the transformer. Add an enclosure, perfboard, 78S05 (or other high-current 5V regulator), power inlet jack and passive components like capacitors, and we're looking at a lot of money for something that should be pretty simple. Since I have ended up with a couple defective Commodore supplies, I may even attempt to de-pot the transformers, possibly with the aid of a solvent like acetone or Bioact. I'll jump at the opportunity if I can find a suitable transformer for around 20 bucks. Otherwise, while I'll probably get around to it eventually, it won't be a high priority for me until my MB-6582 chews through another C64 power supply... I'm not saying that there is something wrong with MB-SID or MB-6582 that is killing my power supplies. These things are almost 30 years old, and the North American C64 power supplies are notorious for failure. So ... how about you? How far have you looked into this?

Congratulations!

Each audio channel comes from one SID ... you could try swapping them to rule out a faulty SID.