nebula

WOW! I had never heard of this before! I think I have a few jobs for them... but it's absolutely overkill for a DOUTx1. Pulsewidth, regarding your posted layout: dude, you're making a lot of work for yourself by using stripboard, and even more work by turning your IC the wrong way. For such a small board it will make very little difference if you run the 5V under the IC uninterrupted, but if you really want to do that, just run a piece of insulated wire on the underside of the board to directly connect the 5V pins on the header strips. May I recommend you consider an alternate prototype board layout. Stripboard, which you're using, is only one type of prototype board. Personally, I often use the stuff with the breadboard layout (see attached image, borrowed from http://www.netams.com/~anton/usb-adc/index.html) ... just use a hacksaw to cut off as much as you need. At the end of the day you want something that works, looks nice, and is easy to troubleshoot. There are a hundred different ways you could approach this, and none of them are really wrong. "Opinions are like assholes ... everybody's got one." -- unknown author

Will all the panels need to have the same finish? I'd like one in "natural" anodized.

If you look hard enough you'll find 2A and 3A 7805 variants in TO-3 cases. TO-3 dissipates heat much better than TO-220. Well, there's really not that much heat in the box ... I guess I like the idea of the MB-6582 power supply being interchangeable with a C64. YMMV

You shouldn't need to regulate the 9 volt output. On the original C64 power supply, 9VAC is provided directly from the transformer. I have also been pondering building a power supply, starting with a hammond trafo with dual 9V windings. One winding would go directly to the 9V input, the other would be regulated to 5VDC using a standard linear circuit built around a 78S05. FWIW I used to have 3 working C64 power supplies, and now I have one. Two of them popped while powering up my MB-6582 (with 8x 6582). So a new, beefier, serviceable power supply seems like just the ticket. I don't know whether to simply build a C64 power supply, or go a step further and put in a housing alongside Seppo's modules (AOUT_NG, SSM2044, VCA), and maybe an audio mixer, plus the required power for all that. The whole thing could connect to the MB-6582 via the DB25 expansion port, which would really tidy things up!

Let me start by saying I have grown to really hate 1/8" jacks (i.e. minijacks, like you would see on an ipod). Nevertheless, I have a couple of repairs to do... in each case, the jack is still mounted to the board just fine, but from repeated stress the jack itself has become intermittent. Does anybody have know of a good-quality panel-mount or board-mount jack that stands up reasonably well? I need stereo (TRS) Thanks

If you are looking to buy something, generally, post in the flea market. But in this case, you should read Wilba's thread more closely: Wilba is planning a BIG bulk order, and if you want to participate, you only need to add you name to a Wiki page. Read the thread from the beginning. The few boards that were sold so far are for those people who are in a big hurry to build one and test, and who don't mind paying big bucks for a FPE/Schaffer panel. There are no more for sale until the big bulk order.

Thanks for the input! Tonight I'll check out these points for sure. If memory serves, the transition at 4:00 was really hard to find a way to get the two tracks to seem to be in tune. I decided that instead of trying to create something seamless I would instead go for a "wake up call" as the bright, buzzy ES2 slidy sound takes the foreground and leads off a more upbeat track. I'm excited too, as recently I've discovered a lot of new sounds, primarily using the MB-6582 and the JP-6, leaving me wanting to explore some more aggressive material, while still using a lot of the groove sensibilities I've developed in the past couple years - i.e. this stuff.

The file's a 320 kbps MP3. Probably bigger than necessary. I halved the bitrate, creating a new file file which is approx. half the size. Link: http://www.mediafire.com/?em0nmhjhhlt

Here's a 48-minute mix of my live tech-house set, sort of... When I play live, I do more on-the-fly dynamic mixing and processing, mute stuff and play other stuff over top. But these are the songs, most of which are close to ready for release. Comments welcomed. MB-6582 and X0XB0X make a couple of cameos, as well as the usual suspects in my studio. Created with Logic 8, with lots of its own soft synths and effects. The only other software instrument is an Arturia Minimoog. Hardware instruments used here include a Roland Jupiter-6, Roland JX-3P, Roland JX-8P, Sequential Six-Trak, Yamaha TX81Z, Korg Electribe ER-1, Yamaha RX21 & RX21L, Soundcraft Spirit Studio mixer, and some cheap outboard effects. No sampled beats are used - I built them all from the ground up. Link: http://tinyurl.com/thisisthatgood

Done! :)

The baseboard parts kit includes the MIDI sockets you need.

For the 16-pin LCD cable, you can buy new rainbow-coloured ribbon from SmashTV, but you can also reuse computer ribbon cables. Just snip off the ends and tear off a ribbon as wide as you need. Also don't forget the ribbon cable DIL headers.

For LEDs and DIP sockets it's hard to beat eBay...

I like silicone for this purpose.

(Updating Wiki due to MIOS 1.9g encoder handling change). Can somebody tell me: does this encoder have 16 detents per revolution? I've been looking for an encoder with exactly 16 "clicks". Also, the shaft looks fat - is there any way to put a knob on this? Thanks

interesting ... you could try shielding your ribbons yourself using aluminum foil, shrink tubing and a bare "drain wire" connected to ground at one end. it might be cheaper and faster.

Correct. You can't see through something opaque.

@SLP: my bad

U.S. prices: $29.99 for 8x8 :) $ 9.99 for 1x4 >:(

... and this makes it ridiculously easy

Judging from the above chart I'd say 0.75 A.

Sweet design. There's a lot to like about this. Very nice work. Congratulations! I will probably buy a kit or two. Would the case be available in different colours? Is the case made of hard acrylic? For example, if you push your finger in the middle of the underside, does it flex?

I would worry about enamel flaking off and exposing live copper. The epoxy Wilba's talking about is often referred to (in North America, anyway) as "potting compound". For small boards requiring isolation, sometimes large-sized heat-shrinkable tubing works well.

Here are my thoughts on pots vs encoders. Others may disagree, but here goes: For controls serving multiple functions (i.e. one minute it's controlling an effect, the next minute it's controlling pitch), encoders are generally a better choice. In a live setting, The biggest annoyance about encoders is when the control value is at its maximum (or minimum), and you aren't looking so you don't know this, and you keep turning it to to try to achieve more. Encoders also tend to be more precise than pots, and typically require more turns to get to the value you are aiming for. But pots are less precise than encoders, so in most studio applications encoders are generally nicer. From the MIDIbox perspective: for pots you'll need an AIN board. For encoders you can use the same DIN board you use for your buttons. And good-quality potentiometers are cheaper and easier to find than good encoders.