nILS

Reminds me of an experiment I made on a core8 a while back: http://www.schickt.de/temp/1bit.mp3 :unsure:

So using MIOS Studio's LCD routines you can write to the LCD but uploading the ain.... app gets you weird characters?

You might be better off trying here: http://eight-oh-eight.org/phpbb2/ Especially the "Assembly Instructions" subforum might be of interest.

Hi there Mr. Dibbler :) Nice little project! You should really consider losing the SMD-fear. I don't see a ton of "omg I just can't solder the gm5" around here after about two metric f*ckloads having been sold and soldered ;)

FWIW if Smash were to read that he'd agree on the MDR-7506 :)

I changed the topic from "Reccomeneded Cans" to "Recommended Cans" ;-) Oh and: Sony MDR 7506 FTW

That's not sad, that's smart. Blue LEDs are teh evil. They hurt your eyes, have a tendency to be way too bright anyways, ... Dig around the forum for more reasons ;)

8580 or 6581? I am pretty sure you didn't discover a new type of SIDs there ;)

If you are ankage or michael123 get in touch with me NOW or you'll be dropped from the list. Tamiflu, ErilineKonn, audio-mobster, unrise_lyrical, Jason Milstead, unit-sound, Dr_Nick: Please send in the data as requested per PM asap.

We're not doing the whole "offer collecting, bidding the price up" kinda thing around here. As the seller, please name a reasonable price (ie parts cost).

0.5Ohms between +12V and ground is bad. There's a short somewhere. I guess this is where you quintuple check every solder joint and then start to remove parts until the short is gone. I'd start removing the 7809 as it's a central point in the PSU part.

I think your best shot is following each and every of Wilba's suggestions.

Was the thermal paste incident between it working and it not working?

Unlikely.

Hmm, I've roughly logged in 3 times since the forum move... So it doesn't really bother me. "Remeber me" certainly is the way to go :)

Are you pouting now? Seriously? :rolleyes: This is DIY. All the answers to all your question can be found here: http://ucapps.de/ All the answers to all your questions have been answered roughly 11357 times on this forum. All the answers to all your questions can be found by spending some time reading. Sorry for that unwelcoming Welcome. We are usually a nice bunch. But posts can get overlooked. I for instance missed this post until you replied to it. And now I really don't feel like typing up a wordy response explaining stuff you can find by yourself.

I was picking values in between add a few grand for 48, subtract a few grand for 24.

You're well in the "a few grand" range with that. A rough guesstimate with the numbers you've given says you'll be looking at 8-15k EUR. With a guesstimated build time of ~500 hours of soldering + about the same again for wiring and the case.

That's what I use for stuff like that: A bit of a pain with bigger stuff but definitely affordable @ ~15eur

For a loopback test try looping the midi device only to see if it correctly sends out sysex. If that works you can try what you described (it won't blow up anything). If that doesn't work, check the parts around the MIDI in (resistors, optocoupler mounted the right way around)...

Nice work! Can't wait to see the labeling! :frantics:

Looking good! I changed the subject for you. You can do that by editing the 1st post and clicking "Use Full Editor".

Hooray for DIYWH*)! *) DIY With Help

Neither. The CS pin is just the "chip select" pin, that enables/disables data IO to the SID. It doesn't enable disable any part of the SID in particular. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chip_Select Long story short: That pin doesn't have anything to do with what you want to do.

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