nILS

Not necessarily wrong but pretty pointless. Do you really ever change the brightness of each led individually? AFTER you've soldered everything? Definitely a "no" on that idea.

I am not sure if that feature is already implemented in any of the apps, but it is definitely doable with just a bit of extra code.

You win a beer. If I ever meet you in real life, remind me to buy a round ;)

36/51 = 71% of the orders are confirmed (48 hours after the PM) First to confirm: m00dawg 123 seconds after the PM was sent. You win a beer. If I ever meet you in real life, remind me to buy a round ;)

Yay! Yay!

It's crappy default FM patches anyways, who cares? :whistle: mbFM can do so much more than that.

Argh, why must both of you sign your posts with "S"???!??!?!!!!!!111oneleven Everytime I see a post by sparx I assume it's by seppo. Dammit, stop confusing me! :frantics:

It's not omitted it's just in the wrong spot in version 1.0 of the pcb. It's between the gm5 and the 7414, protecting the gm5 from overly excessive current draw which can never happen :) In the new revision the 220 Ohm current limiting resistors are moved after the 7414 where they actually make sense. Congrats, out of 150 building these you're the second person to notice :) The first one was TK of course :sorcerer:

Everyone who signed up got a PM. With the exception of "ankage" as that user doesn't exist. If that's you, send me a PM pronto! For the rest of you: Don't change your usernames, especially not before I am done communicating with you ;) If you should have but haven't gotten one send me PM pronto!

Since you have voltage problems, you do NOT put any ICs back on the board until you have fixed them. The bridge rectifier is really hard to kill, so I am not sure how you'd break that. Check for shorts between GND and the supply rails.

1) That'll depend on your LEDs/resistors. In my case (yellow/green LEDs with 1k resistors) it pulls ~95mA while sending and receiving sysex on all 5 outputs/inputs 2) I haven't had any issues with that neither with nor without the EEPROM.

Everything was fine until you put the ICs in - that hint towards an IC put in the wrong way around. Do you get the correct voltages when you remove the ICs again? What PSU are you using? From your measurements it looks like 12VDC. Are you _sure_ you haven't changed _anything_ else?

It's correct from what I can tell by a quick glance at it. Note that there's also a mouser order list on the gm5x5x5 WIKI page ;)

Yay! :frantics:

That's not a problem. Make sure you have uploaded setup_sammich_sid.hex from the RC35 release. If that's not what you uploaded fix it. Otherwise you have some hardware issue. Are the ICs correctly mounted on the CS PCB? Are the voltages okay?

Welcome aboard Pouryas :flowers: All of what you are asking can be done. Partially it already exists (buttons, faders, ...), partially you'll have to write your own code for it (midi mapping). That's about as in-depth as I'll get without knowing more details :)

http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=start&do=register

Someone seems to eat up half your MIDI In :) When you start the box do you get a regular upload request?

I asked the seller about it and this is his reply: "It is the batch code and not a datecode (after all it cant be made in week 5 2011!) They are not remarked as they have come out of a sealed MOS box of 244 sid chips. I have listed the first batch of 50 to see how they sell." :flowers:

Obviously those chips are going to be produced in February 2011, so you might have to wait for them a little bit ;) Unless there's some secret marking theme I don't know anything about, those are remarked - which isn't really an issue. But if they're remarked, the seller sure as fuck doesn't know whether or not they're "from the chinease batch of plastic/remarked/homemade chips that appeared last year" or if they're really not pulls. Obviously this doesn't mean they're fake or non-working but it would mean there's something a tiny bit odd going on. Which seems to be kinda normal when it comes to SIDs. Just my 0.02 EUR.

It wasn't aimed at anyone in particular, that's why it was prefaced with "...just a general thought". ;)

This isn't "aimed" at fussylizard, just a general thought: The chance that you actually get a broken PIC from Smash is very very small. Typically you made a mistake somehwere. A lot of times builders blame the PIC when it turns out it's something else - blaming the PIC seems popular. Smash is a really nice dude and does his very best to make sure you get good stuff, his packing is nuke-proof and his prices are as low as can be - please don't abuse his niceness by "guessing" your PIC is wrong and "demanding" a refund/replacement before you've done some severe troubleshooting and KNOW it's not something else or YOU that broke the PIC :)

The schem is correct. A picture of the veroboard might help :) Some shots in the dark: - R2/R12 on the core not mounted/wrong value - Cable between core and bankstick is the wrong way around or broken - You made a mistake in the eagle->veroboard process

Figures, doesn't it? Nope. sammichSID is a regular mbSID v2 with a semi-minimal CS. There's no special source code, just some minor changes in the regular source (just like for TK's setup, the mb6582, ...). The "special" and a pre-compiled .hex are in the .zip at ucapps with all the other hardware variants.

That's what I call "guided democracy" :thumbsup: Closed! I'll notify everyone on the list in the coming days about what to do next.