nILS

Um, yeh. Use buttons with a round shaft then? And btw you totally can fit a square shaft into a round hole if the hole has sqrt(2)*side_length diameter...

Sidenote: :rolleyes:

Still the same: Server: irc.mibbit.com Channel: #midibox http://mibbit.com/chat/

Umm, I don't see the problem here. The switch has a round shaft. That's where you attach the cap. You don't attach it to the switch base.

Welcome aboard! :flowers: 2x AINx4 = 64 analog inputs => you want 51, all good 1x DINx4 = 32 digital inputs => you want 32, all good 1x DOUTx4 = 32 LEDs => you want 32, all good + Core, PSU, LCD, CS parts You want linear ~10k faders/pots.

Fix the MIDI first out then. One problem at a time. IC2 doesn't have anything to do with the MIDI Out. The only relevant parts for the MIDI out are: JMO (make sure you got the jumper on correctly), R7 and R8 (both 220 Ohms) and the MIDI Out socket. Is the routing in MIOS Studio correct (easy to test by loopoing the MIDI out cable on your MIDI device back to your MIDI In)?

Welcome aboard :flowers:

Half a mm is within the tolerances :)

Have you tried checking the "Remember me" checkbox on the login page? Worked wonders for me :)

I assume you downloaded the latest .zip with the firmware. If you take a look you'll notice a "presets" folder ;)

Komfortabler als MIOS Studio? :huh: :D

Thanks :)

Mit MIOS Studio + MIDI Yoke geht schon einiges was routing angeht :)

And to keep the rest of us from searching you're just about to post a screenie here, right? :yes:

If that's supposed to be a top-down view of your 6N138 you're counting the pins wrong. 1 8 2 7 3 6 4 5[/code] I am not quite sure I understand your post, so to clarify: - You do get the upload request in MIOS Studio? - Your midi cables are connected correctly and working? - The routing in MIOS Studio is correct for both the IN and the OUT?

Yes this has happened before and the answer is in the forum. Keep digging :) IIRC Wilba posted a screenie with the correct values for the delays.

Wekcome aboard n0zem! :flowers: The best thing you can do is to plan. Then check the plan and replan, ... There's been a few veroboard version (Pascal made an mb6582 on veroboard for instance) but they're usually not documented all that well. Start with the PSU section, check the voltages, do the core sections, get them up and running do the sids, run all the test, whee :) Good luck with the project!

Yes.

Let's keep the troubleshooting in one place:

Just curious why the ground connection (middle pin) of the 7812 is cyan as well - that's supposed to be the 0V rail. So you should be measuring the 12V between the lower two pins of the 7812. It is possible that your 7812 is borked or it's not quite above the needed voltage. IIRC I've had an 7812 working on 13.5V and it worked nicely, so replacing it might be worth a try. You could take out the vreg and bridge it and also remove the bridge rectifier but it's usually better to leave it in and not risk messing up the polarity ;) Also, since it's not mentioned anywhere - you're using a 6581, right?

"Ooh, there goes my LCD again..." "What's wrong with it?" "Well, essentially I suck at putting things together" Classic. :thumbsup:

I've been toying around with that approach quite a while back. Worked pretty well and it's a lot more reliable than it would seem at first :)