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Everything posted by Sasha
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Yes, that is really s good thing. I see some people using dummy connector connected to DBx, to ground the pins when there is no analog input.
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OK Andymann, thank you for your answers. ;)
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I really need to start learning C :-[
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Hey Wise, good job. I`m glad you chose midibox over the girls. I see you have pretty much wire jumpers. Couldn`t you awoid it? It`s not it`s looks bad, they are pain in the ass to solder. I really like interconnection cables... very nice. I usually use hot melted glue for that which ig good but looks so unprofessional.Your are just great. How things are going with the panel? any changes from the previous design? I usually change so many things if project took longer times. Maybe you could contact MTE (Traktorizer), and integrate some of his features. He is using some cool craphic displays, and I see you have a plenty of room for them. Glad you`re back, mate. ;)
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MIDIbox of the Week (MIDIbox SpeakJet K64 created by Rio)
Sasha replied to TK.'s topic in MIDIbox of the Week
Once again.. great work Rio. Congratulations! -
Andy, cool box. I like the panel, and your website. To bad the English flag takes you nowhere. ;D In your place, I would definitely use standard knob for crossfader... like the one you have on your mixer. I find the fader knob you used very unergonomic for horizontal movements. Oh, yes... nice e-drums. Very compact! One question... Who make faders you used for your box? How they feels? Thx Sasha
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I`ve red it, and will check everything in detail. 2 days I have no issue, but won`t leave it like that.
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Well, I used panell and subpanell. Never Well, I never filled the holes. I left them opened with illuminated white sub-panel underneath. I wonder will gap filling have some holes. Never did any testing with this actually, but I have that on my mind. I dont think silicone would be good for the use, but epoxy might do the trick.
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Have you seen this encoder on mpcstuff.com? for $14 ??? Well, I`m sure it`s not optical. Bastards! http://www.mpcstuff.com/rotary-encoder-for-mpc-2000-xl--jog-wheel-p.html
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That is bad news? Man, I wish I have news that bad, but I need to wait whole month for it. :( Don`t you hurry man, if we wait till now, we can wait a bit longer. Have a nice holidays, and come back quick. ;D
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I`ll try this. But last night, I have no problem suddenly. I tried shaking and pushing but wasn`t able to provoke it again. In the time I didn`t know what could be the problem. I can do more sensible testing today, when I can concentrate on encoders. Thanks for the tip. It is easier to use the tape, or to take of the panel.
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I`ll check if body of encoder is connected to the common pin, but I don`t expect that also. I`m using modified Voti encoders (detend removed) so it might happened the piece that used to touch the detends now touching back plate. Chances are low but still possible. I cannot be sure is this is the case, but I think better solution for me is to make panel holes wider than to open whole synth to reach the encoders. In the case of Endorphin`s multi panel construction it is last thing I want to do. Didn`t know DINs are also sensitive. I hate AINs! So fragile, so oversensitive. I ned to troubleshoot friends controller because some AINs are have range just from 0-96 or something. Pots are ok... working normal on other AIN pins but all in`s of 2nd and 3rd multiplexers have that problem. After changing the AINx4 module problem remains. So, I gues problem is where from I took +/- from for pots. :-\ Yes, starlike pot connection... maybe it wasn`t that star-like. :-\
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I had exactly the same problem with my Endorphin yesterday, and I would never expect this could be the reason. So strange! I have aluminum panel just barely bigger than encoder threaded part, and it must be touching it. I will make holes bigger and hope it will fix this strange problem. Does anybody knows what is actually happening here? What if encoders are mounted to the metal front-panel? Is there any software solution for this? Strange, just two of us experienced that problem. ???
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Thank you Rio. It`s on my to do list. ;)
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What a beautiful scene. I am going to print it and frame it so I can keep it on my desk here at work. :) Now I`m thinking to make transparent casing. It is to shame to put those boards in a dark invisible place, or better... I want use the case at all. ;D
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Snorkman, I would so love to work in place you described, but I`m working one of the worst jobs in IT.. technical support. To realize my designs I use different services. CNC, laser, waterjet... Most often lasers, as they are most economical and result is very good if you work with acrylic/ thin woods and such. Engraving is done on same machine without taking out the panel. About picture tutorial, I`ve already did some. Check these pages: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=8417.msg58748;topicseen#msg58748 http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=4322.15 http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=8933.165 http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=8450.30 http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=8450.0 I hope you`ll find it useful
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Glad you find it. :) Cool one from Alex.
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Well, this is not a problem at all. Just make one PCB that will go under the foil contact, and put it in a sandwich made out of 2 pieces of wood, metal or anything with holes at the end for screws. Put a piece of rubber on top of the foil and tighten the sandwich. Pretty easy if you understand me. Thin the PCB contacts to prevent oxidation. here is the pic
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New artwork lables looks exactly like I did for Endorphin, except, they are mirrored, but I don`t mind... No, they dont. Check my powder coated panel I made for Endorphin. Not all plastics are scratchable. Check out, again, my Traktor controller panel. It is extremely durable. No way it can be scratched! But I wont pressure you any longer as you probably think I am payed by Rowmark to advertise them. Only thing is you need some support from behind for bigger areas, but it is not some problem.
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No, didn`t know that. But, sounds cool... Iron Kisser. ;D Thanks for informing me, Dave. ;)
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Well, it depends. The layer itself is much thicker than anodized layer. Quality of powder coating can vary pretty much. Some powder coating are harder than anything I`ve seen, and almost imposible to take off, but some aren`t so tough. You can feel the difference just by touching the coated surface.
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maybe you`ll get it after you reed this http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=9602.msg69361#msg69361
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Right. ;D But, I searched the forum and I couldn`t find any info about it. Sometimes you just go with emotions... ;D ;D ;D
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Thanks Mike, but I`m not able to program it anyway. :(
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That`s great! Than, we are happy too. :)