Sasha

Ladislav, this is very nice ...like all other PCBs you made.

But, images ARE online, and they are hosted on my webspace, so they don`t affect forum bandwidth anyway. ;)

Sure, I always do that, and paper is unreplaceble for that job! :) I`ve collected some mechanical parts (guides, steppers..) from printers and scanners to made myself a small CNC, for same purpose as you... PCB engraving and drilling. I need to finish first few MB projects that I am already building, and I would like to continue with CNC. Not sure what stepper controller design I will use yet, so if you have some suggestion... I`m here, but maybe not in Chriss`s thread. ::)

Mike, thank you very much for this detailed answer. I would personally never go with paper. It do look good, but still.. paper is paper even it is lacquered. If one put that much effort in hand in hand making aluminum panel it is shame to put paper on it, if you ask me. Chriss, sorry for hijacking your thred, but hey, it happens to me all the time. Take look at my Endorphin blog about carpets. ;D

Yes, 3mm screws or threded rods are appropriate for any PCB mounting holes.

I hear same noise in the background after I turn the volume to the max, but seams signal to noise ratio is still 90 and something dB, as it should be. I`m probably not right person to answer it, but I think that noise is normal. MAybe it could be improved using some better PSU.

I suppose what you hear is the noise that comes from the powering the circuit, similar to what you heard when powe up the amp that have no delayed speaker output relay. I think it is normal.

Man, that sucks! >:( This is what I wanted to do, but if 0db it`s not at it`s place in all apps it is quite useless.

Any news here, Wise?

I read somewhere long time ago that is planing LC emulation on MBSEQ platform. That could be really useful.

I was very interested in it myself some time ago because of its size and the fact there is no moving parts, but cannot find it locally. I also wanted to run 98Lite as you. :)

That chip is cool, but there is too much background noise to be really useful.

Never Heard of wax-style printers before, but I needed to print white on dark million times. I must try to find one. So that is the right name.. "wax-style printer"?

Man, I think you need some more self esteem... There is nothing critical in drilling the PCB after all parts are mounted. You already have that small 1mm hole to guide the drill, if not drill it first with 1mm drill and afterwards with 3mm. I never pay attention on drilling those mounting holes before soldering. Sometimes I do it after I drill 1mm holes for components, sometimes before mounting the PCB. It really doesn`t matter. Sometimes I need mounting hole on some other place, not in corner of board. Just flatten your PCB onto some piece of wood and drill! Use sharp drill bit and hold your board and will be no problems. Relax, and do it. ;)

You can always place butons and PCB on acrylic panel and when they are in place, solder it to the PCB. All cutting errors will be compensated as you can move the button that 0.2mm around so it sits nicely into right position. This is also only proper way of soldering LEDs To the right distance and X/Y position.

As English is not my native language, I dont understand quite what mills are, so I opened Corel to search the units and when I couldn`t find it I figured out you think of stripboard holes/pins spacing. Well you cannot convert it. The spacing on stripboard is standard 2.54mm or 0.1 inch. Will you give priority to panel layout or stripboard spacing is up to you. Both is OK. I always give priority to panel layout, as the 2.54 spacing don`t let to align some elements properly. Especially for projects like MBSEQ where I want to have encoder right belove the corresponding section of LCD. Maybe I am sick perfectionist, but having encoder out of the right section of LCD totally unacceptable for me, but most of the people wouldn`t mind and they would mount how stripboard force you, and that is in 2.54mm steps. I don`t actually use any PCB design software so I draw my buttons/LEDs... PCB`s using Corel Draw. Any vector program will do the job. Before I begin any designing, I draw footprints of all components I am going to use. After I am satisfied with panel layout, I delete everything except parts that needs to be on PCB, and draw connections to the place where connector should be placed. Of course, you can make just pads around the button/LED pins and solder wires directly to it. It is most simple solution without compromising panel layout. Another way that I rarely practice is to make snapping grid with spacing 2.54 in Corel Draw and move the elements so their pins are snapped to the grid. In this case front-panel designing needs to be done after you finish button placement. When you already made that nice panel, I advice you to put some more effort and make custom PCBs. As you can see on the picture on attachment, PCB for my sequencer is very simple, but it is aligned to the LCD perfectly (as it should be) ;) PS. in the time I have finished this post you already had two replies, so I hope I`m not repeating much.

Well, not all midiboxers can register at paypal, even donation of few buks we all can afford :-\ I can assume the cost of hosting of this forum can be pretty high.

You really need to have any kind of drilling machine if you building any of MB projects.

Hmmm, blue and purple are cold colors! How could it be warmer in reality? It is actually red and orange? ;D

Thanks Jeff, you make my day. ;)

Now, it makes sense. I thought for a moment that you missed the theme. And, when we speaking about carpets, I must say that I hate oriental design myself, but dont like blue details you got on your carpet nither. :) What a disaster of blog.. ;D

Here is one picture of filed buttons openings panel, now everything fits. I changed usual wooden background so we can start chatting about rugs now. ;D

Hackaday is one of my favorite places on the net.

I wanted to do it a long time ago, but I never had prepared shooting setup... proper lighting, tripod, so I never actually done whole documentation, just a pieces. Some things could be boring to watch, like when relatives send you a video of their cute baby eating cake for half an hour even, cute but not fun to watch longer than 2 min :P From my experience, If you shoot alot of material, 5-10% of it should be fun to see, and maybe useful for some novice if you edit it properly, otherwise it will be another boring youtube creation that only mother could love. ;D I am surprised that there is no more promo videos from MB builders, especially after TK`s youtubes. I don`t know how many times I watched his shoots with smile on my face, especially for SEQ. The tune in "MBSEQ V3 Session 4" is also very nice! MTE made really great promo video for his Traktorizer, ...flying over his big spaceship. ;) Really well done. Audiocomander for his Handtracker and Kontaktstation... superb job... But, there is so much more MB builders here, and so much nice boxes. Vere are your videos, guys? And finally my answer is... yes please. Make/edit some shoots, and make it useful, or at least fun to watch. ;)

;D ;D ;D do you have some instructions? Waterjet is great but I didn`t pay for service last time as my friend cut his panel for free so he cut mine also. Just for preparing the machine they charge 60 EUR, so it is not good idea for using it to cut one piece of prototype. These panels are 1mm thick aluminum, and waterjet can cut steel up to 10-20 cm, s it is kinda overpowered. I found company that have powerful laser capable of cutting metal, but I lost their contacts and had no luck to find them again. As I heard, laser is best for precise aluminum cutting. Anyway, I successfully finish panel filing so it is OK now, but not perfect. As I really want to be 100% satisfied with this project I might do it again but not for now. I will try to laser engrave this panel to see how is the result. Never engraved any powder coated material before so I don`t know can it be done.