julienvoirin

http://midibox.org/forums/forum/43-midibox-blm/ certainly the best

i am also interested by more infos on OSC support with MIOS32 features :flowers:

bravo ! sacré boulot je crains également que tu ne fasses pas fortune mais se satisfaire des plaisirs intellectuels est déjà pas mal (avoue ...) petite question : qui t'as fait les circuits ? avec quoi(logiciel) ? en France ?

there is a BLM application and some hack of it through the forum, especially in user project section no need to use 1 DOUT for 1 LED : MATRIX is the answer ! http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10476.msg79411.html

pas besoin de MIDIMON, MidiOX logiciel le fera très bien, sinon MIDI MOnitor sur MAc avec spy on out activé

:thumbsup:

idem Matoz et ça aussi : http://mte.bplaced.net/Hardware-Projects/Traktorizer-Page/Traktorizer-Index.htm Ayant traktor Pro et ayant commencé à configurer mon Monome pour me marrer (à s'arracher les cheveux), je peux te dire que y a pas mal de trucs possible (genre un témoin de play sur une platine, les cue points, etc) mais que ça demande de très bien connaitre l'architecture du Logiciel, notament les évenenments MIDI qu'envoie Traktor Peu de chance d'avoir un truc aussi évolué que le S4 car format propriétaire (non documenté, mais certainement basé sur un protocole série tel le MIDI))

I had similar problems with shorts on DIN/DOUT modules, Core was alright

you haven't understood what i wrote verify there isn't a short between Rc and Sc for example, or Vd and Sc, or Rc and Gnd, etc... SC = SCLK = Shift Clock !

http://svnmios.midibox.org/filedetails.php?repname=svn.mios&path=%2Ftrunk%2Fdoc%2Fmios%2Fmios_backup.txt

you've got a short between SCLK and some near trace, maybe RCLK , or ground or 5V. Use "bip bip" mode multimeter and check independancies of the 6 signals (Si So RC SC 5V Gnd) i already had this problem some years ago True, you are right

You should finish it (as it is quite finished). At 40€, it's a gift !

4x20 LCD now exists in 1U height. As much confortable for reading than a standard one, but smaller ! check eBay or my Matrix1000 controller in the user projects section http://cgi.ebay.fr/USB-20x4-LCD-Module-1U-height-U204MB-B1-for-LCD-Smartie-/220726691557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33645606e5

add more solder permits to keep high temperature (like a big ice against a tiny one in Springs) i'd advise the same, and "clean " with soldering wick after

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

depending of your soldering skill and iron quality, you can use desoldering wick. Results not garanteed the easiest is to sacrify your SIL Resistor and get a new one

CV1/Gate1 = AOUT0/J5:A0 CV2/GATE2 = AOUT1/J5:A1 etc ... CV8/GATE8 = AOUT7/J5:A7 you can't reassign by software (i already asked) read Midibox CV webpage

CORE = GATE AOUT = CV

Best Arduino shields (like Ethernet) can by strongly fixed to the Arduino by 1, 2 or 3 Spacers (height=12mm), as there are holes in regards on both boards the assembly is SUPER strong, like SammichSID

there is an application in the SVN to test the different modes of encoders

any help welcome :thumbsup: code size = 50 KBytes !! MatrixBoxSource_JV_beta v0.80_ext_clk.zip

i've looked at the circuit .. Are you sure about the resistor SIL for the LEDs ? usually it is : SRoutput--Led--R--Ground it seems different here (and easy to solve). i guess you mismatched with shift registers for inputs it's OK now i've better looked : adjacent pins are a resistor isn't it ? i advise you mini resistor (1/8W) : cheap but hard to find

great job :thumbsup: are you expert ?

if you can manufacture such a huge PCB i will ask you to make me one (not for a LC but for my custom Matrix1000 controller) ! good luck with wiring, remember that you can switch wires between shift registers and pots/encoder/buttons and redefine them later in the files to compile :thumbsup: