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Hi Niels, We heard of another similar issue. Could you explain exactly the wiring setup you use? It is important to know the power sources of everything (linear or switching PSUs, power banks, hubs), how they are plugged into the wall, whether you use a computer or laptop, the various jumper settings on the Euroceiver and so on. Is it particular modules or everywhere that you notice the hum? Best regards and Happy New Year! Andy

Nice to see your progress! It's confusing, but there is a difference between "bootloader hold" and flashing the "bootloader hex app" through MIOS Studio. Bootloader hold, using the blue DISCO button, is when you mess up a custom app or the flash is corrupted somehow and the Core will not boot anymore. This allows you to fix the Core with a known good hex upload. Bootloader app is essentially the same but can be normally flashed with MIOS Studio. Upon USB re-enumeration you can then alter boot settings, including changing the LCD type.

Cheers! Have a good one!

What voltages do you read out of the output with 1/2/3/4/5 V... or min/mid/max? Looking at the MS-20 manual, it seems to expect a linear 0-8V CV for the VCOs? So maybe normal V/Oct scaling is already good? If you really need to work within the positive range, remove the offset resistor on any channels you would like to use in unipolar mode. These resistors xR34,xR35,xR36x... etc. are listed in the BOM on the transmute8 page.

Right idea, just should be in parallel with the resistor rather than the cap.

The circuit is a power-on reset (POR) that charges the cap for short period until the power rail stabilises. If you omit this then the displays will probably show garbage pixels. Only one POR is required for all of the displays. I would also suggest to wire a 1N4148 diode in parallel with the resistor with the cathode band at the +3.3V node.

Cheers! Enjoy your new SEQ! If it's working well then you have #24!

Hi Niels, it's there in the Utility -> Options menu. Hi Pieter, You can try this thread for troubleshooting if you wish: http://midibox.org/forums/topic/20993-troubleshooting-midiphy-seq-v4/?page=1 The OLEDs are probably fine but I would still suspect the cable. A slightly crooked crimp can short two lines together. Common issues with a display not working are: J15_S not jumpered to 3.3V R33D value (should be 560R) Cable strands shorted together Cable makes contact with components on the OLED PCB (isolate with kapton tape) Cold joints or shorts on wCore 2x25 pin headers (trace back to pin names or even MCU pins according to http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_core_stm32f4.pdf) Best of luck!

You can try it! I've always entered the commands one at a time though.

If you have a READY. message, then it works :)

Bootloader is here: http://ucapps.de/mios32/mios32_bootloader_v1_018.zip Upload as normal hex through MIOS Studio and change the LCD type + store as you note above. Also check that the jumper is set to the correct voltage for your LCD and that the cable is correctly "mirrored" probably by soldering the pinheader onto the back of the display and connecting the IDC there. Merry Xmas, Andy

Hi Hal, Probably we/someone should write a wiki entry or something on the new features! The idea is something like this: The encoders underneath the OLED displays work just as before The encoder switch functions are in theory freely assignable but are typically used to accelerate encoder data The first row of illuminated "Soft" keyswitches are equivalent to the GP buttons plus the dual-colour step LEDs of the Wilba version The second "Selection Row" keyswitches change function depending on the button lit up around the datawheel on the JA board (see below) These LEDs are also dual colour The row of Apem/MEC switches should be familiar to V4 users The RGB Beat LED flashes a different colour for the beat and the whole measure The JA board has a built-in Activity Matrix and typically displays the track position in a single colour Other display options like a custom logo or the current BPM can be displayed (both with optional beat flash; also for the TPD) The datawheel functions as before and has a push function (currently not assigned to anything I think) The JA board carries the transport controls (play, pause, stop etc.) and a few extras The Selection Row buttons around the datawheel are: Step View Tracks Parameter Layer Trigger Layer (Drum) Instrument Track Mute Bookmark Song Phrase On the JA board, press and release one of these to change the Selection Row function Press and hold the JA button to temporarily change the Row function, which jumps back to the previous function on release On the v4+, all 16 Selection Row buttons are accessible and multiple selections are possible by holding down several buttons simultaneously Tracks are still colour-coded into groups of four tracks and named identically (e.g. G1T1-G4T4) On the V4, tracks were chosen with four track groups and four tracks for a total of 16 tracks and only three trigger and parameter layers had dedicated buttons (normally holding Param./Trig. C would bring up the layers menu screen) Rear panel has a USB B port (power/data) for better mechanical strength Switch for USB OTG host is provided but we notice some devices are incompatible Footswitch/gate input (currently not assigned to functions) Rear panel LEDs: Green: power Orange: SD Card available Red: any received MIDI IN Blue: LED any transmitted MIDI OUT I think that's it! Best, Andy

You mention AINSER, but talk about muxes. Do you mean AINSER64 (even if not all multiplexers are used)? Are you using a self-designed board or something from uCapps? Maybe the scanning isn't working properly? Try http://ucapps.de/mios32/ainser_jitter_mon_v1_002.zip for diagnostics.

@Adam Schabtach, nice job and well done on #23! The subtle colour mixing is a great idea and exactly the sort of thing intended with the RJ/SJ setup. Enjoy!

Isn't the transistor topology similar to a linear voltage regulator anyway? You might avoid the issue in the first place by starting with a more reliable power supply. Users here often also employ a crowbar circuit, so those might give you some possible ideas or directions. For your simulation, consider that the transistors should be properly specced to handle the current loads, also real components might have tolerances or voltage drops that push your limits.

Nearly there, cool! Could you post a photo of the clearance issue just to confirm? You mean that the soldered row on the rear of the plate PCB still conflicts? Did you trim the pins before soldering as suggested? Maybe more trimming is needed? That DIN8 is actually EOL anyway so we need to see how the replacement looks.

Okay, you can add them now! https://www.modulargrid.net/e/modules_racks/add/25274 ...25275 ...25276 ...25277 ...25278

Now working!

Hi Niels, It's a good idea, I will look into it! Best, Andy

Check also the 1N4148 diode orientation, probably all are fine as the switches work but just to be sure.

I tried clearing the cookies and flushing the DNS, but the link still leads to IRC. Can't promise that I'll hang out there much but it is a good idea to update to something modern.

So all LEDs are lit except play? And it's a sudden change? If the switches function properly, the issue is either with the anode side (IC3), THT resistors or with the LEDs themselves. I would check individual diode functionality with a multimeter. A possible fault is that one or more LEDs are busted.

Before binning, just try the one you were sent. The sFM has linear regulators for both power rails, so the noise might not be at all bad!

It is the same in much of Europe, I think because transformers draw some current even when the secondary is unloaded. The only way to kill the power is to switch off the mains (which I always do) or to unplug the wallwart. So it is seen as a power-saving scheme. Try rummaging through a second hand store or fleamarket for an old one. Alternatively you can still buy transformers and build your own, but need to be experienced with mains voltage and case it safely. https://www.reichelt.de/Transformers-toroid/2/index.html?ACTION=2&LA=2&GROUPID=8880

If the PSU is heavy, then it has a wound transformer in it, so it is a linear PSU. If it is light, then it is switching as the components are much smaller (also sometimes containing a small transformer). Very few of linear ones are also regulated, but they do exist. You should measure something near the rated voltage with a multimeter. Better to load it with a 1k THT resistor. If the voltage is wildly different then it is not regulated. The current capacity of a switching PSU is much higher than for a linear PSU of the same size. Anything over a few hundred mA will be a switching PSU.