Steven_C

measure the output... if it is unregulated, the voltage will be higher than the rated value, when there is no load. When you put a load on it, an unregulated psu's voltage reading will go down. A regulated PSU will always read the rated voltage value, unless you try to draw more current than it is designed for, in which case the voltage will go down. I use a 1.6A PSU for one midibox LC, and that is barely enough current... but that is powering both the MF circuit, and everything else as well. Use the 5v, 2A output for two LC cores, din, dout, ain, etc, and the 12V 2.2A output for 16 MF's, maybe, but I think you won't get 24 channels from one PSU without problems. Maybe share one such PSU between two LC's and the third LC can have it's own! (2 PSU's between 3 boxes total) BTW, building 3 LC's is no easy task I must warn you! (Originally I wanted to build 2 LC's, but have given up at just 1... lots of work and planning!) Good luck, from Steve

out of interest... you can get more current out of a 7805 or similar voltage regulator by adding additional circuitry... some kind of current boosting transistor... a work colleage built a PSU the other day that goes up to around 10A from a 7812! but I don't know how he wired up the extra circuitry, sorry! This makes me wonder if I'm pushing the limits of the 7805 on my midibox LC... it has 2 backlit 40x2 displays running off the same 7805 as the rest of the circuit... so I bought the extra components to add a separate 7805 just for the backlights today! ...Steve

does anyone know where I can get tactile switches similar to the ones on my LC clone? (see pics 3/4 way down on page www.ucapps.de/midibox_gallery.html I am called Steve C there!) the problem with the ones I am already using (jaycar sp-0609 http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SP0609&CATID=&keywords=0609&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=) is that they have a hole in the middle, presumably for attaching a cap or something. I want ones without such a hole!

Very Nice SID64! I wish I had the patience to do that!

Very Nice SID64! I wish I had the patience to do that!

Just spent 3+ hours to find out that the reason my new midimerger would not work was because of one of these crystals. Changed it for another (same part number) and it worked! So watch out! ...Steve

So will you have a nice studio space?

sorry if I annoyed anyone wanting to buy dan's parts. What does YGPM mean?

see the thread 'tutorial LC emulation' for tips on selecting encoders... I think there are some listed there, but I'm not sure. This topic has been brought up many times, so do a forum search, and you will find some answers. ...Steve

Dan, Please re-consider... I'd hate to see you give up after all the suggestions you've made and the messages we've exchanged in excitement about our LC clones! TK has really made it easy now, with the diagrams that show the default wiring for the LC clone. (not just a list of pinouts anymore) It has been hard for me to get my head around this too, but I'm putting this project aside for the moment... but will get back into it later... bigger and better than ever! (need a break for a while) all the best, from Steve.

I agree

Welcome, Sreaming_Rabbit! Interesting... a fairlight user... I tried to learn Fairlight MFX3+ and Prodigy systems, but got sick of it... it was wierd for me... hard to get used to remembering all those key commands, and the routing system in the fairlight prodigy is really strange IMO... so I went back to Protools, That was all at college (North Sydney Tafe), but at home, all I can afford is logic 5, on a PC... (what step next? :-/) So what software will you be using with your controller that you plan to build? Sorry about the threadjacking, Pasquale ;)

Unless I've missed something, you're dialog is really hard to understand. Slow down a bit, and if you meant PIC18f452 (not 425) then yes, a modified JDM will program it. Use the forum search feature to find lots of information on this. (It is a bit tricky to get it to work, depending on your motherboard/JDM configuration.) V5? what project exactly are you talking about? Have you looked at www.ucapps.de for your answers. Is that you Phattline, or someone else using your account? good luck, I hope that didn't sound too patronising, from Steve

Hey Hallucinogen, nice price you're offereing for those 40x2 LCD's! But I just got mine from PMB in NZ! good luck moving those units. ...Steve

I think that patch change commands are probably able to be 'learned' by buttons/keys on a midibox. (someone to confirm this :-/) I'm not familiar with the midi floorboard controllers that people have made around here, as I'm not a guitarist... (haven't taken much notice so far) so someone else may be able to answer better. I don't know why you want two units when one could do the job of both. I know that older midibox projects could switch 'banks' but I'm not sure if that was only for the pots (continous controller messages) or for the buttons as well. The only midibox that I have used for the last 2 years has been a MBLC which behaves totally differently (forgotten how to use the others! They have both been waiting for repairs for over 2 years now! but one of them will get some work this weekend!) good luck, from Steve P.S. If someone can answer these questions better, then please do so! ;)

I think that patch change commands are probably able to be 'learned' by buttons/keys on a midibox. (someone to confirm this :-/) I'm not familiar with the midi floorboard controllers that people have made around here, as I'm not a guitarist... (haven't taken much notice so far) so someone else may be able to answer better. I don't know why you want two units when one could do the job of both. I know that older midibox projects could switch 'banks' but I'm not sure if that was only for the pots (continous controller messages) or for the buttons as well. The only midibox that I have used for the last 2 years has been a MBLC which behaves totally differently (forgotten how to use the others! They have both been waiting for repairs for over 2 years now! but one of them will get some work this weekend!) good luck, from Steve P.S. If someone can answer these questions better, then please do so! ;)

http://www.ece.uah.edu/~cpe49610/ someone has already tried one of the Linx products it seems. I have never heard of this (microcontroller?) EPM7128SLC84-7 chip, or have any clue on how to compile the firmware though. Also the circuit seems to need an external clock. All a bit vague. Looks like a university project or something...

Hi Timbo, sorry, don't know of any Australian suppliers. There is a distributor for P+G in sydney, but you're probably looking at $100 each or more! Alltronics in the USA do panasonic motorfaders for US$5 ea, I think. But these do not have touch sensitivity, which in my opinion is a neccessity. But there are work arounds for this, and hopefully we will work out a way to add a proper system of touch sensitivity to them soon! (a wire or flat spring that rubs against the metal 'T' knob support.) ...Steve

Very good idea, though I can't have a look and check, as I'm away for a few days. (not for holiday, unfortunately :'() It may be possible to make a spring from stainless steel wire, mounted on plastic posts or something... The top part of the fader (where the toothed belt is) is open, so it should be possible to use mounting spacers to make this open part even bigger. DJ Segler, I think we are finally onto something here ;) source of stainless steel wire... trolling wire for fishing... but it can't be soldered to... but wire could be attached under a screw on one of the mounting points!::) maybe nichrome wire... Can that be soldered to? (Nickel/Chromium) This stuff is certainly cheap enough... This idea looks promising!!!! ;D BTW I think that you can get conductive plastic knobs, as well as metal coated plastic ones, but I don't know where from.

garden (we call outdoor area of a pub 'beer garden' in Australia)

Okay... I have an idea. Not sure if it will work... the slider is mounted with spacers so there is a gap under the front panel. a piece of pcb is mounted somehow (using same mounting holes as the fader body?) alongside the slot, but facing upwards. (maybe the gap won't be big enough for this) And a flat metal spring is attached somehow to the slider 'T' shaft (the T shaped bit) that wipes on the new piece of PCB. (would have to be a special shape spring) But now we need metallised knobs... Nickel aerosol spray pack? ...Steve

[glow=red,2,300]Warning...[/glow] the MBLC project emulates the original mackie control And the new mackie control that can control Sonar, Protools, DP, etc is different, as far as I know. So I don't think the MBLC is compatible with Sonar, etc. Correct me if I'm wrong. :o

5532 - that would be NE5532N, I guess. I think even Jaycar have them.

there is such a diagram on this forum somewhere already. there is a link to it on the thread 'tutorial LC emulation'

possibly midibox 64. You can assign CC's to each knob using the midi learn function. (send the cc from another device, and learn it to the appropriate knob on your midibox 64.) the 32 unused analogue inputs can be connected to ground. (or disabled in the firmware, but ask someone who knows how, and that isn't me! :P) I would actually go for something with ledrings instead... even the behringer unit, that is as cheap as diy! An LCD is definately reccomended though.