Stop posting relevant stuff in german ;D Quick and really, really dirty simultaneous translation (a friend of mine read out the post, while I translated and typed it ;)) "@puddingbrumsel: The changes are really nothing major. I rearranged the cores, because the 200mm veroboards didn't match the size. Because of that I didn't have enough space for the audio inputs and the feedback filter. Apparently I couldn't fit the cooler on their either. It's blowing the air out the bottom now, which you don't see on the pictures though. Furthermore I socketed the filter caps, so I can easily replace them. I only used a 2x20 which meant I had to adjust the frontpanel layout. THe PSU part is completely rearranged. Oh an I don't have a headphone output on it. But that doesn't really have anything to do with the boards. No, I didn't draw the circuit on the board. I took the 200x100mm vero boards and stuck all the parts on where I wanted them to have. When I got it the way I wanted it, I took 2 more boards and transferred the layout 1:1 and soldered it. Keeping track of the traces is pretty easy. The hardest thing on vero is always the the first module - in my case the first Core and the first SID module. When you'Ve gotten the first one right you can just copy the other modules directly. Which doesn't involve any further thinking :-) Still in german, as I'm on a roll: Some people might be asking themselves why I would buid that board on vero. The answers are obvious. First up because you learn so much more than from just soldering a pre-layed out board and you have the option to change things to your liking. After I was done with my vero-stereo-SID, it was really interesting to me to understand Wilba's stereo-SID setup and button-matrix. And it'S really neat and simple, although one should really solder the diodes for the buttons first. I didn't think of it soon enough, so I had to solder all the diodes to the buttons and the cables later on. Sorry for the german, but I can just explain myself way better in german."