nILS

* Make sure the polarity of C5, C6, C10 and C4 is correct * Make sure the polarity of D4 and D5 is correct * Make sure JP is set correctly If all of those are correct, measure the voltages across C6, J20 and J2 and post the results here. Make sure you've set your meter to DC for measuring after the bridge [and AC before the bridge if your PSU is AC]

technobreath: Yes it's possible, no I will not go into details of switching 230VAC in here. There be dragons, 230V is ouchy, especially if you don't already know how to do it :) dimitree: 10mA +-10% is within spec, you could/should use a resistor in series with the DOUT output (like for LEDs) to limit he current (330R seems about right and will give you 15mA).

Short answer: Yes. Long answer: I am assuming you're having a display or two as well? USB can supply a max. of 500mA which is not enough to run a full mbSEQ on. You'll get away with USB power with just a core32 module and an aout_ng module, most likely not if anything else (especially DOUTs and LCDs) are connected.

Anything more pro-looking :) cylindrical hex-nut like on sammich*: or a cheese-head screw:

That's going to be a pretty short battle. I predict flawless victory incl. fatality (down, forw, back, back, high-kick) in round 1 for the mb6582.

At the moment we are waiting for Wilba to receive his case and give final feedback. DHL seems to have some problems and be kinda sluggish right now though...

Pretty much all of what you say has been suggested and attempted in one way or another. Usually by people who said they were going to make massive contributions to change that. Apparently most of that never happens, I guess after the people in question notice just how much info there really is on the WIKI and how much work is in involved in recreating/sorting/fixing it up is. Not trying to demotivate you or anything - I'd love to see someone get started on a few upgrades, but it's certainly a pretty massive job ;) Imo it would be best, to start with a clean empty WIKI and copying the pages step-by-step :)

The reason for adding the transistor driver is simply that regular relais need quite a bit of current to switch and that may be too much for the shift registers to handle. Reed relays seem to need less current which allows them to be driven directly from the shift regiter pin - whichever you decide to use make sure the current draw is small enough or add the transistor driver.

Looking good :frantics: Pleeeease exchange the screws on the CS though ;)

Yes, that's correct!

You can always just print the wiki, ucapps.de and the 25% of the forum. :rolleyes: Seriously though, I don't mean to sound blunt or anything but a) not gonna happen b) you have no idea whatsoever how much work it is c) we're not in any business at all, neither for the money nor for anything else d) so not gonna happen e) all of the above

Did you define "#define MIOS32_IIC_BS_NUM 8" in the mios32_config.h? Is MIOS32_DONT_USE_BANKSTICK (or the likes) defined?

Shot in the dark (may not be applicable): Are you using the correct pull-up resistor network and is that jumpered to 5V?

mios32\trunk\apps\mios32_test\bs_rw_check <- test app mios32\trunk\apps\tutorials\025_sysex_and_eeprom\ <- demo app mios32\trunk\apps\synthesizers\nI2S_synth\ <- "real" bankstick action lol @ your timing :) MIOS32_IIC_BS_ScanBankSticks scans for banksticks, it queries the actual hardware which is quite slow. MIOS32_IIC_BS_CheckAvailable only gives you the results of that check, and is hence pretty fast. You always need to scan (at least once) before using CheckAvailable.

xnView

This should help: http://tinyurl.com/33ghz5y

Yes ;) Flat head LEDs (and anything that looks like it) ftw!

That's described here: http://ucapps.de/midibox_seq_manual_m.html

Welcome aboard, midiboxer :flowers: Please read the thread before posting a new topic in "User Projects". I moved your post accordingly. Sure! http://www.ucapps.de http://midibox.org/dokuwiki/ have fun reading!

No, you shouldn't.

It's a Salecom T80-R and it's the same used in sammichSID, sammichFM, kaffeSEQ and mb6582.

I still think this is a horribly evil thing to do.

Tweaking the contrast pot won't help initialize the display, phunk ;) The display gets power, but hasn't been initialized by the PIC. This can have various reasons: 1) wiring is wrong 2) PIC doesn't have MIOS (and an application) on it 3) 1) and 2)

Nah I guess, $20-50 will get you all the equipment and plans.