Wilba

I don't think that matters... I think it's the total order size/cost that matters. I'm guessing here, but from talking to them, they told me they'd prefer a few bulk orders to 100 people ordering 15 knobs each. If you're ordering 50+ knobs of any type it should be fine.

Correction: I have arranged with SmashTV to get these sold through his shop. But please don't annoy him with orders yet.

Yes, when I finally get my panels, I will be taking more photos like this.

No, I'm not upset! While I have tried to explain as much as possible in the wiki, there will always be things I didn't explain, or expect people to do (like connecting a heatsink between V1 and V2/V3!) I am actually happy that you didn't destroy your C64 PSU by connecting 5V to ground! I've added a note to the PSU Option B construction notes.

I am arranging a bulk buy direct from the manufacturer.

I plan to do the same, but I'll probably stay with a 2x40 display for convenience. Use of 4x20 display has been done before: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=7545.0 No change to firmware required, but as mentioned in the thread, it's not perfect. Just look at the manual, you'll see how the main screen will get split in the middle of the patch name. http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_fm_manual.html With a little bit of coding, you could make it look better.

Opaque means not transparent or translucent; impenetrable to light; not allowing light to pass through. I don't know why people were expecting anything less than fully opaque... hmmm.... but I do agree that they are a little brighter than expected. Keep in mind these were taken with a flash bounced off the ceiling... in normal lighting conditions they'll appear darker. I like them a lot... I'm using the red ones on MB-6582 and I really wanted a red that would contrast well with the black and not get lost in the mix with the black panel. I'm considering using green LEDs on my MBFM, so I'll tint the white knobs with some green ink or dye so they look like green versions of the red knobs. Maybe even a yellow-green, like the backlight of the 2x40 LCDs I just bought *whack*

No, you'll need at least one 74HC165 connected and the encoder connected to two of its inputs.

*whack*

*whack*

Ahhh! That would explain it... Yeah, it's OK to use a single heatsink between V2 and V3, these share a common ground. For PSU Option A, you won't need a heatsink on V1.

There is nothing wrong with the PCB layout. PSU Option B works. You are getting confused by the 9V DC being added to the 5V DC to produce 14V DC relative to ground. No, V1 common pin is not connected to ground. In this wiring, V1 will regulate the input to 9V DC, 9V above the common pin which is 5V above ground. Thus V1 output will be 14V above ground, as stated. As above, V1 is outputting 14V above ground, which is then connected to the V2 and V3 regulators, which have their common pin on ground. You probably did not test the voltages correctly. If you test the output of V1 relative to common pin (middle pin) it will be 9V. If you test the output of V1 relative to ground, it will be 14V (for PSU Option B). To reiterate, in PSU Option B, the 9V AC from the PSU is rectified and regulated into 9V DC (by V1) but this 9V DC supply does not have the same ground as the rest of the PCB, V1 common pin is connected to 5V so that V1 outputs 14V relative to ground. As mentioned in the wiki, PSU Option B is like the "C64 PSU Optimized" wiring diagram: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_8xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf the only difference is a common 7809 and 7812 regulators supplying multiple SIDs instead of one regulator per SID module.

Pressing the Modulation Source buttons (horizontal row of buttons) jumps the menu to the corresponding modulation row. Holding Shift button while pressing Modulation Source buttons jumps the menu to the default modulation source (i.e. Env1, Env2, LFO1, LFO2, etc).

No they are too short for the 10mm gap.

Yes, they need to be 13mm from the base of the switch (i.e. the top of the PCB) to the top of the shaft. The gap between PCB and panel is 10mm, the panel is 1.5mm, leaving 1.5mm of shaft above the panel.

I don't know a French retailer, but I believe Reichelt.de have a clone of the ALPS tactile switch that will work just as well.

I'm scrolling, I don't see how I'm duplicating anything... I'm going to fork off a new thread about a CEM3372 filter module.

http://m.bareille.free.fr/modular1/vcf_multimode/extrapole.htm

I probably haven't documented this yet... the switches that overlap the LCD PCB should be soldered on the top side of the PCB and afterwards the leads cut as short as possible on the bottom side, so that the LCD can be mounted as close as possible. The electrical tape is a good idea, I used plain sticky tape on mine, perhaps even a strip of card would work better.

Hold down menu button when powering on.

Are you sure it's anodized aluminium? Looks like power coated (paint).

That case is perfect for recycling into a MIDIbox64! 16 faders with button/LED under each one... I agree it would make a nice MB-SEQ case... but it just looks so perfect for recycling everything inside too!

I think a 10mm wide strip of metal could be glued with JB-Weld on the underside, over where the two panels meet... either one along the length of the join or a few short strips perpendicular to the join (like your diagram). You can cut strips from the part of the panel you're cutting out, should work fine. What kind of material is the original front panel?

I prefer email requests please. I can't be expected to trawl through this entire forum for people's needs.

email me with an order, I will add you to the notification list.