Altitude

You should consider just making holes for the LED rings in the front panel over the window approach. Just use the front panel as an aligning feature. You can get pretty accurate results using the FP as a template, it even works with flat top LEDs

The IRC channel is probably the best way to catch him

just ask smash.,,

get a flux pen, makes soldering to bare copper much easier.

woah, those are huge, that looks like a 6mm shaft though.. The holes are for a M7 threaded part

That's what I used and they are fine. Flatted D is 6mm, I dont think I've ever seen 4mm shafts

the ponoko friendly eps file is in the first post

yep, mono pots are your problem. They're supposed to be dual like this:http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/TW-700150.pdf

+1, sounds like something is not wired correctly. Does this have the feedback pots?

that's how it's supposed to work. One SID per channel The passive mixer only works if nothing is connected to the main outs.

looking good :)

all use the 1054 other than ambika, I wasn't implying that the 1026 should be driven with 5V though, drive with what is needed to get +/- 12 and then step down off the DC to +5 with a recom. How much current do the opamps need?

linear supplies based on 78xx vRegs are always going to be very sensitive to the DC source noise since they have a very poor noise rejection. I dont even use unregulated supplies for high current applications, switching supplies are usually cheaper, a fraction of the size, and perform much better than a huge unregulated linear one. I am just finishing a MB6582 with a 1.6A 15V switching wall wart with recom 5V and 9V switching vRegs and then a 7812 for the 6581s and it's as quiet as any big linear supply setup but no heat and a fraction of the weight

if you need gerbers, why not just generate them from the .brd file? Takes a second in eagle

Could try a charge pump like on the Mutable stuff, LT1026 does up to +/- 18V

Mike is the only person that made/offers them AFAIK, SmashTV never had the orginal Aout

case file posted..

I'll chime in here since I've designed quite a few plexi cases at this stage: 1: Decide on a clearance between the case and boards and work around that. 11mm is what I start at, most parts will clear 14mm easily and it gives you a bit more breathing room for displays 2: Decide if you want windows for displays. I personally dont like the displays exposed and always put a window in front. This also means that you need a fair amount of space between the panel and PCB, a cutout, or a thin display. In this case, going to a 20x2 OLED seems to make the most sense to match the little ones.. 3: Case colors: Personally, I dont like the clear/tint plexi since it just gets covered in finger prints instantly. The matte black is my go to but you really have to fill in the engraving which can be tricky. There are a couple of threads about the techniques people use to do it. 4: with matte black, dealing with the LED rings can be done in two different ways imo: cut holes for all the LEDs and just stick them through the top panel or you can just make a clear round piece that snaps in like a display window with a hole in the middle for the encoder shaft (or a u shaped on for that matter, keep the middle black) 100% agree on the CV/gate jacks not being on the "brain", a D connector to a breakout box is the way to do it even if it's only a foot of cable connecting the two. One other thing I dont think anyone has touched upon is the real estate that the core, aout, and any other related boards will take up behind the CS.

I personally have no interest in a tablet control surface. Several soft pots, display, a buttons and I'm happy. I guess that's a balancing game of features/complexity but if it is "limited" to a GLCD, the options open way up since the data can be displayed in a much more useful way (the little displays must stay, killer feature :)

Wow. Outstanding work.. Time for me to get ready for a new MBHP project :smile: The pactec is a nice cheap option, and there is also the smaller PT-8. For the CS, I'm in favor of a generic one unless someone comes up with a reasonable physical one.. I think the CS on the ambika is very slick and flexible with 8 pots (4 below, 4 above) around a 40x2 display so you can display 8 parameters at once

convenience, easier to do that neatly than figure out the lengths for connectors.

I did the 1/8" as well. Here is the setup before I added the level shifters:

Nice! Hopefully a green one is in the works. Dont see too many 40x2 OLEDs

Just for documentation's sake, can you post the part number of the ones you like?

$106 each is cheap?