Altitude

i've seen a bunch of the originals with the chips soldered in the usa

I'd recommend against that stuff, it breaks pretty easily and once you break one lead, you have to replace the whole cable which is major PITA. I use standard ribbon cable with DIL connectors along with IDC headers which allows you to disconnect everything if you need to (you only use half of the connector). It's strong and you never have to solder the ribbon to the board. Alternatively, you can just bite the bullet and use one wire per connection, its a lot of work but much more practical since if something breaks, its an easy fix

I actually found that via a post about the JREF (James Randi Educational Foundation) James Randi is a magician who's committed to debunking all sorts of BS about all sorts of things (telepathy, ghosts, magic etc) and has a whole category devoted to "audiophile" equipment. He offers a 1 million dollar prize to anyone who can prove that their cables actually "sound" better than others (via a double blind test), no takers to date. I remember a link going around for a $500 wooden volume knob that was supposed to absorb "micro vibrations in the pot shaft". These people are the all members of the royal council of morons.

http://www.pearcable.com/sub_products_anjou_sc.htm There you go, $2750 for a 3 footer :sick:

and the results:

If you have a spare, drop me a line. Smash is busy and I dont want to hump his leg about it

They are stereo pairs and effectively 4 separate synths in one box. The noise wont bleed per say but the stuck notes will stay on until another note is played so that you will hear. Personally (having had both) I wouldn't even bother with 6581s. Timbre wise, the 8580s/6582s are identical except there is no envelope bug and the filter works

I was planning on using a Meanwell, same thing as my euro setup. This will be in a SEQV4 enclosure so the +/-12 will only be used for this

I went with the 525 simply because I had the SMD parts on hand and it's supposedly a better part. JP8 is the 1:1 pin connection from the core (or it should be anyway, I'll make sure to double check that). I used the NorthernLightXs schematic from the Aout redesign page and that was one of his changes to the original design The adjustable gate is very handy, I just built a TTSH and without that, I would have needed to build another device to deal with the high level gate requirements for that thing. Figured it would be a more useful add on than the normal 5V level shifter What do you mean regulated voltage for offset correction? Is there something more needed than the 6007 in the original design?

Yeah, I've been thinking about that, the headers will provide quite a bit of friction so I would only need one or two to keep it together. The breakout board is designed to be panel mounted by the jacks so there is no need there. I went with the cool LJE0352-4R / Kobiconn TRS 8mm jacks

5.5"x1.5" I didnt really plan it for a rack. It was sized for my hammond case but 4u should be fine

So I have been working the last month or so on a new surface mount based Max525 Auot module with integrated daughter board and level shifter. The level shifter if based on the Midisizer Alf analog board and is adjustable from 5 to ~11V gates. Sync24 is also included via normaled jacks so the signals are run to the DIN port on the 4xIIC module unless something is plugged into the 3.5mm on the break out board. Critiques/comments welcomed and appreciated

Skunks: I heard no difference between the TI and Recom parts. The old TI part is long obsolete and it was twice the cost. I've been using the Recom parts for everything and I highly recommend them. No issues at all

I'll call them and see what they can do, it's an obsolete part (hence the price) but a VFD for $18 is a VFD for $18... I've never seen the regular part, how does this differ? The only difference I could spot was the little bulb on the front of the display.. I ordered a set of the colored covers so I'll snap some pics once I am up and running..

This is how I do it. I use a Triad 15V 1.5A switching wall wart which feeds a 7812, a R78C9-1.0, and a R78B5.0-1.5 (for the 9V and 5V respectively, those are switching Recom Vregs). This set up allows me to power the whole thing from a single DC supply (a very small one at that). I retrofitted my box coming from the big C64 brick and was careful to check for any noise level changes and there were none. Same thing for the 15V DC brick, initially I used a linear one but it was almost the size of the C64 one and again, no noise going to the switcher

So mounting holes match up?

you're going to need to buffer that serial line if you plan on running a cable anything longer than a few inches

couple things I would add t this: 12mm encoders vs 16mm encoders: This is fine but I HIGHLY recommend you have your enclosure/panel made at this stage so you can check the fit before soldering the parts in. Whenever you need to do lead yoga and eyeball what is a good fit, it's a lot easier to check your work against the panel before you solder everything in place. LEDS: Same thing, I never solder in LEDs without using the front panel as a template, yes it's more work to mock everything up initially but way less work than going back to fix misaligned LEDs later on. Attach your standoffs, screw in the PCB with all the LEDs fitted in their holes, then solder them in..

^ I think budget more than anything. 300+ euro for a case is ridiculous. You might get 5 people willing to pay that for a "premium" case. You're getting taxed BIG TIME for the low volume, that case should be 30 euro, not 90. It's not ill will, it's simple economics. There is a cost to set up to run those and that cost is passed to you so getting 10 cases cut will cost not that much less than getting 50 cases cut except the per piece cost will be spread over 10 cases, not 50. For that kind of money, there are dozens of one off prototype case places that will punch, fold, and silk screen aluminum however you want. I pay 130 euro TOTAL for one off prefabbed hammond cases machined and engraved front and back. I've actually had Hammond quote cases similar to this (and that means punched THEN powder coated) and it was half that in quantities over 50 pcs..

I took those holes off, they were only there for the 2 piece prototype panels where you needed to wire them together and you dont need them with the current CS PCB. Are you seriously going to do the LCD window cutouts on the back? I can understand the blind holes for the mounting (I dont really agree though, counter sunk holes with the right hardware are just as good at a fraction of the price IMHO) but the LCD window cutouts are a pretty dated concept, You can get 20 windows cut laser cut for the price of one machined one and those dont require a cutout on the back of the panel. I've been using the "snap in" plexi windows for everything project I've done in the last 5 years and those are perfectly fine (see SamichSID/FM)