Altitude

This actually came up with the PreenFM2 which also uses 4bit mode and the display didnt work out of the gate but Xavier figured it out. Maybe someone who knows what they are doing may find what he said useful: http://ixox.fr/forum/index.php?topic=63350.msg63931#new

wow, great band name.. Cool effect. Reminds me of more up tempo Fax stuff.

Knock yourself out: http://www.unique-leds.com/index.php?target=categories&category_id=198

are you up to date bootloader/software wise? I seem to remember something breaking IIC if you had a firmware with old BL (mine is STM based with 4xIIC and works fine)

I found the quality of these to be mediocre at best, not even close to a newhaven or Kyocera. I tossed mine, not worth the $8 I saved and the 4 week delivery. Backlite was crazy inconsistent over the length of the part (you can kind of see the same thing in duggles pic)

wrt OLED noise: What worked REALLY well for me is to use a separate 5V supply just for the OLED (Wave 1 Rolf suggested this). I just soldered in a 78L05 in the first two pins and added a 0805 100n between them and another 10uF on the other end and it dropped the noise by at least two-thirds. I dont know how well it would work tapping behind a linear vReg (this was on a Shruthi build, the LT1054 has very good noise rejection) but i'll be using that set up when I give the 20x4 OLED another go for my MB6582 since I use a switching 5V vreg there anyway

Hmm. This sounds like a good time to take another look at going after an OLED. So for a more standard OLED, all that needs to done is to solder the SMD pads and use the custom LCD driver?

based on what nILS said, it can be done but would need to major rework of the firmware since an extra pin would be needed to take the place of the one used for the CAN interface. If I spoke better C, id do it since a 4x20 OLED for the MBSID would be really nice..

I dont know what it is with OLEDs in 4 bit mode, I looked at this a while back with the 4x20 Newhaven part and had no luck either..

They did change the layout but the steps are the same. The mac version wasn't even out when the guide was written so I cant comment on that. I did go through the process a few weeks back on the latest windows version and that worked fine

What is the functional status of this board?

If you are in the US, you cant beat http://www.fastenerfront.com/METRIC-STANDOFFS_c27.htm

I wasnt too thrilled with the buy-display part either. Crappy performance, crappy build. You get what you pay for I guess. I use the the green on black optrex parts, they are a pain to dial in to get to look good but they do look good (eventually) and dont draw a ton of current. I used the 40x2 newhaven ones also and like those a lot despite being your standard black on light background with backlite deals. One thing about the optrex parts you MUST watch for is that there MUST be a current limiting resistor on the backlight or you will blow the LEDs (i've done it more than once). They are replaceable if youre handy with tiny ass SMD stuff but its a $40 display in the trash otherwise

honestly, i dont think a front panel will help since you really have to force them in and a panel wont really help. it shouldn't be an issue with the standard tacts, eyeballing it will be fine for those

yes, but the problem was there before SP1 also

I see the same behavior as antix. I run 3 sometimes 4 GM5s and occasionally one (not always the same one) will disappear. Unplugging it and plugging it back in brings it back. I have tried everything I can think of (different midi ports, hubs, etc) and nothing makes a difference. This behavior has been around as long as I have used them (on Win7 now)

The foot prints are definitely wrong on that board for the standard 6mm tacts. They technically fit but the vertical spacing of the pads is off so the legs get bent out at angles (you probably already discovered that), it was a pain in the ass to get them all to fit consistently enough to get everything to fit the front panel. Thankfully, the caps could be put on after the front panel is installed so that help quite a bit. I have a bunch of various 6mm tacts left over from other projects and all had the same fit as the Omron parts

I used the Omron parts: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/B3F-1052/SW405-ND/44068 with these caps: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/B32-1010/SW451-ND/10805

when i first put those on it was pretty clear that there needed to be something to fill the cutout. Solution: anti static bags, transparent when looking directly at them, silver when at an angle :)

as many voices as possible without degrading performance.