Altitude

the pics on the synthage site. I appreciate the 909 style buttons and understand that has a size requirement but for me, I'd much prefer a compact device over a larger one. Right now I sequence my 9090 from my Beat707 which is very small (and battery powered) and I am quite fond of it mainly for the size aspect

is the final device going to be the same size as your prototype? Its kind of huge..

mmm, quad IIc

This is really overkill with all these crazy transformer solutions, the only thing you need for a MB6582 is something to drive the SIDs (+9V or +12) and +5V for the digital side. The C64 one is a matter of convenience and nostalgia, not necessity. You could run the whole thing off a 9VAC wall wart if you wanted to, the SIDs really draw the current, not the digital side so thats where you need the juice. I did some measurements when I installed my switching 5V regulator and without the SIDs installed, the digital side only pulls 150 mA with LCD installed at 12V DC, with the SIDs, its pulling 750 mA. The switching Vreg and unregulated DC supply will cost a third of those C64 supplies cost

make sure you get ones with the little tails that have a flat bottom that wont short to the encoder (http://www.lumex.com/specs/SSL-LXA228SGC.pdf or similar, just something that does NOT have pads on the bottom). It helps to have a variable power supply that shows how much current you will draw since it can be significant considering how many LEDs you will have (45 in my case all on permanently)

im in

Ha! I call that "Roland Funk", all the 80s x0x boxes i've worked on smell the same (stink actually) when you crack them open, I think its the conformal coating they used on the cellulose boards or the boards themselves that smell that way. I was considering bottling it and selling as a fragrance to DJs for a second.. :turned:

The US versions of the C64 PSU are all (all as far as I seen anyway, and I have had a dozen) encapsulated so you are pretty much SOL if you short it out and blow the internal fuse.

Great that you're doing this.. Ctrlr has come a LONG way. I'm running the latest windows build and all seems OK so far..

woot! Looks like I picked a good time to add some updates to mine..

Some spring cleaning going on so: $20: 115V C64 PSU. Works fine, dont need this anymore since I went with a single supply for my MB6582 I am in the USA

Just to follow up on this thread, I've been working on my sid and took a few pics to show the wiring: The +/- are wired to the outside 2 pins of the 7 pin din connector (normally the AC pins)

Title says it all... I pulled the one I had wanted to use from a 1x board and it didnt quite survive

I'm working on a kit right now, It will fit into case and will be same type (3.5mm TRS jack to midi cables) and my montribe kit. The duo is a whole different creature because the CV signals are run through a uC to be quantized so some other things need to happen for it to work right

->* Newhaven 20x4 OLED (@Mouser) in yellow or green - NOT compatible with MB6582 4-bit driver out-of-the-box Welcome to my world. Does nothing

So I finally have my 4x IIC board up and running and would now like to move on and make some changes to the app to reflect my specific hardware (all midi, no aout, no OSC) Namely: Remove unused options for midi port destinations (like OSC, which I dont have installed) Rename IIC ports Since this will be my first foray into changing up the code, I dont know if either of those is practical (or possible). Any assistance is welcome. cheers, Alt

try a 2 leg bicolor LED

tell me what to code into the app_lcd.inc and i'll give it a try when i get home

nope, I did it right :( just doesnt work. I'll play around some more with this tonight. nILS does not seem keen on the 8bit mode though..

I'm not building the custom driver in right. nILS is putting the smack down on me right now so I should be able to proper test your driver tonight.

Where are the jumpers? Am I missing something that obvious? It should be perfectly compatible with the HD44780, I use the 16x2 ones in the shruthis i build and they work perfectly without any modification, its just a drop in for the LED backlit ones

one thing I noticed looking at the guy who ran in on the arduino was that all his delays we much longer than your values, maybe thats the issue? I like the run in 8 bit mode idea though.. The MB6582 board is provisioned for it but I'll need to dig through the documentation and see if I can figure it out since I dont know anyone who's done it

TouchDAW rocks, well worth what they charge. Here is my demo with the WiFi midi driving a korg monotribe

Well, let me put a bounty on it then: I have an extra green 4x20 to anyone who helps get this up an running. They are great displays and reasonably priced

Ok, I am back on this. I tried Hawkeye's VFD driver and unless I am doing something wrong when making the hex, it does not seem to work (black screen) I simply replaced the app_lcd.inc file in the SRC folder and built the app. I did verify it was reading the file like suggested above by just putting garbage in the file. Any steps I missed here? I could not find where to set the custom LCD in the main.inc. I did not include that file in the makefile either. If anyone would like to point out any errors in my ways here, please feel free since I am clueless on how to perform steps d-g above. After some searching, I did find this site which addresses the initialization commands for my specific display: http://www.elcojacobs.com/controlling-an-oled-character-display-with-arduino/ its for arduino, but I figured someone who understands the commands might find it useful.