jojjelito
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Everything posted by jojjelito
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And to m00dawg! Enjoy it!
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+ 1999 I don't mind waiting, but an occasional update wouldn't hurt. And no, I don't want to send e-mails every once in a while asking how things are going.
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Dayum! Congrats on a *very* nice looking build! I like how you made the buttons. We can haz some sounds? /J
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Feeling like uncle McDouche - must finish the modular... It's a wiring job of epic proportions...
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You should not use more than 8,1mm for an 8mm hole. Any hole that is too big will leads to your parts sloshing around in the hole. A hole is easy to file bigger in case it's needed. I'm looking at the ON-ON-ON DPDT switches used instead of Lorlin rotary switches, they had slightly bigger shafts than other more normal SPST/DT or DPDT switches. Also, use 3mm aluminium instead, depending on how wide your front panel is since it is a bit flexy in the middle. You can also use hex distances or internal bracing for support, but 2mm is thin, 2,5mm just there, and 3mm feels sturdy. /J
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Happy B-day, Altitude! One of the true master builders out there :sorcerer:
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Sorting components, bagging and tagging them. Organization - it's tedious.
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There are options in the code so that several signaling schemes fit. As long as it's a quadrature encoder chances are it will work. If you find something that outputs some odd Gray code you're off to coding land... Did you notice the Eagle Plastic 450-BA600? It will fit more common encoder with 6mm D-shaft and has no line. Mouser has several choices of 450-BAxxx knobs that will fit both 6mm serrated T-18 and D shafts. You'll save money on the encoders plus get to use more standard parts.
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Well done! Very clean sounding and good choice of tunes!
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Dumb questions or not: 1) Using a knob with a set screw made for 1/4" (6.35mm) axis on a 6mm D-axis won't end well. The know will wobble around some or not be centered properly around the axis of rotation. Don't do this! 2) Look at the photo tutorial on building a MB6582. Here the LCD is fixed to the PCB that is fixed to the front panel using JB-Weld and lots of hex spacers. Another, less nice-looking, option is to use the 4 screw-holes of the display PCB (assuming it has those), some hex spacers and 4 screws going through the whole shebang. Or, just do the distances behind the front panel for the display. Or, cover up the display hole with a plexi window and mount the display with hardware internal to the box. /J
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I didn't get further than tweaking the startup sequence and something lit up, but I disregarded any changes, if necessary, to the bootloader :getlost:
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We should keep in touch regarding that code transmogrification! I don't think I destroyed my display but originally I just carried all the leads straight over, before realizing that it was a 4-bit beast. I have some prototype code at work I played with last summer, then the modular grabbed my time too much...
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Oh yeah, there I was, balls deep in your mama. Oh, sorry! Is this thing on? OK... I'll get back to the driver hacking after some other things I'm doing are done. Maybe the smaller displays are more standards-compliant, I know that Altitude put a 2x16 in a Shruthi-1 without any changes to the code. Please note however, that the Shruthi is a different code-path entirely as it's written in C++ outside of the MIDIbox world so take this indication as a feasibility hint, no more. Reminds me, in 2016 or whenever I have the time, I'll do the Prophet VS and the CZ5000. They both need the OLED treatment. Especially after seeing the picture above :thumbsup: Cheers! /J
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D-shaft only... No matter, just on a whim I'll take 50 4/04/DR 110 006 of each color or until the stock is gone. /J
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Oooh, finally a chance to acquire some cool knobs in 3-shot. Are those hard finish only? Never mind. They look cool! Those 3-shot are actually 4/04/DR 110 006 for the d-shaft and 4/04/TP110 006 for the spline shaft. Gotta give this a short ponder before PM:ing later tonite... All of a sudden I wanted in. Dangnabbit! :frantics:
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Soldering all the good stuff from Reichelt. Listening to Todd Terje - Inspector Norse. So far the best EP of 2012 - post disco is the new black...
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You can also find similar knobs from other manufacturers, depending on which model it is. The P670 can be substituted with more generic knobs from Eagle Plastic (450-BAxx) available at Mouser, or alternatives from Sifam. Also, check out Tayda or www.knobs.com.tw
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1000SEK/112€ bought me a Casio CZ5000! Bring back the 80's...
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MAGjack och flervarviga trimpottar finns ganska billigt på http://www.electronic-shop.se/ I skrivande stund kostar en MAGjack SI-60024 19,98SEK eller €2,22 plus moms. Trimpottar kostar runt tian.
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MAGjacks för €2.22 or 19.98 SEK (WTF are the smoking, rate wise?)... http://www.electronic-shop.se/
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Reichelt - now with Paypal. No bank transfer that can go wrong! 188€ says bye-bye. The soldering iron is about to get hotter...
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A commercial SID synth that look damn familiar (seen on MESSE)
jojjelito replied to stuartm's topic in MIDIbox SID
Still hatin' on it. Diss! -
Yo! Appreciate seeing the nyanalyzer display in action :thumbsup: Must build one of my own nao! Plus points for a great tune, chunky bass and spacy arps! I like it. Reminds me, must tidy up the modular and post some brutal noise :frantics: /J
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2x CV/Analog in 2x CV/Analog out MIDI In/Out/Thru Dinsync USB host x2 USB device Looks promising!
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MikePig: Ahh, got you! Missed the critical extra h :pinch:
