jojjelito

I'm in Sweden, so I guess that means more expensive postage for people who are mainly in Germany. That said, we could arrange a European bulk order for the silicone buttons in case there's any interest. I don't know if we could amass enough people for a discount, but it should be feasible and might shave off some money for those :) /Johan

Try to find the Wurth Elektronik 693063010911 instead of the 3M version. Farnell and Elfa/Distrelec should have those.

That said, my Waldorf Q, the Supernova 2 and a whole lot of other hardware would benefit from this too. Of course, one of the issues would be handling synths with odd/poorly/undocumented Sysex like the Fizmo, or those that dump the entire patch every time you change something - like the Casio CZ series. Anyways, before that lovely job happens, next week I'm off to the Bavarian countryside and Munich to say hi to mr Hawkeye, take some pictures and draw some diagrams; plus enjoy the south of Germany :) There's tons of work to do too. Like the Waldorf Q panel if we get to that... Later this fall I need to sit down and solder a fair bit before my own Programma is usable in my Stockholm lair. Of course, it will be cool to expose the controls of some DIY synths like the Shruthi, Ambika, Preen FM/2 and the P6 too. Or make a knobby Prophet VS :) This, the extra analog panel with a joystick, LED sliders and footswitch inputs and the BLM will make a kick ass starship command console. Add Ilmenator's MIDI patchbay and a Mutable MIDIpal plus DIY gear from Peter Kvitek, and I can do whatever I want with my MBseq and MIDI gear without a computer unless I wanna. More to follow. Johan

UPS slaps on a brokerage fee and VAT later for Mouser orders. using FedEx lets you pay VAT straight away on the Mouser order, and there is nothing extra to deal with. At least, it's been that way for me lately.

The effect of the downwash on the straws is seriously hypnotic! At first I had it figured for filming inside a car in a car wash :) Nicely done, the music too!

Gotta get me some of this! :) Name PCB BLM PCB miniCore Case Shift button M2 hardware 4xLED availability 4 4 - 8 5 16 latigid on 1 1 1 1 1 1 Rowan 1 1 1 1 1 1 Phatline 2 2 1 1 1 1 TK 1 1 1 1 1 1 Altitude 1 1 1 1 1 1 rwo 1 1 1 1 1 1 jojjelito 1 1 1 1 1 1 Total 8 8 7 7 7 7

A smart PCB with SMDs would be more than welcome. There's no point in having through-hole just for the sake of through-hole. It has its uses, but SMD is fine as long as the very fine pitch stuff is avoided.

Wow, nice. Gotta make me one at some future data when I'm not tied down by the artistry of traveling lots for work with various clients in the NFT/APM world... Just stick a Blaupunkt label under the OLED and your car radio is good to go

That way it will scream hand-built and hardcore assemblage, but there won't be many MBProgrammas out there unless there's PCBs and a building guide later on. Their loss in the mean time. I don't know shit from Shinola, but it's going to be a good device :)

The Yocto works fine these days. There were some ppl who complaining about the clap sound on early units, but that's been fixed. Plus, the MB-9090 can sequence that too. FWIW, the 1ms MIDI note on delay from the MIDI protocol itself doesn't make things less tight enough to be a problem. Any DAW can do latency compensation. Or, mod it with trigger inputs, it's not that hard. Thse days there are 606 replicas too, plus ppl making DIY Linndrum ROM/sample playing boxes. There's lots of alternatives out there. Shuriken has listed the most obvious ones. I'd get the Sonic Potions LXR with the trigger expansion too since it's a fun DIY-alternative to a Machine Drum.

The LED sliders look amazing! Each contains a standard 2x3x4mm LED. You can see that they look very nice, for instance in the thread over at Muff Wiggler about the clarke68 Eurorack panel for the Serge Resonant Equalizer from CGS https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=119325&start=all&postdays=0&postorder=asc Plus, you can see some pictures of the NV panel for the Klee sequencer in that thread, or Jon's TTSH Arp 2600 clone all over the internets. So, a crafty person could fit white, blue, green, yellow, amber, red, pink, UV, aqua or whatever color LED in there. Bright Components at Ebay.co.uk has all sorts of colors and LEDs that fit. For tactical reasons I stuck with green, since it follows the LED rings. YMMV, plus it's all up to future builders.

Nice Ambient-ish jam :) I just like that expression - if you Google it, it means to dance. I just like that post-LSD it sounds like a euphemism for something else. Or, you just trip the switch and something amazing happens...

If it's a COG LCD on a sub-PCB it makes sense to remove the EL foil as those things are 100% pure evil. That is, provided you can get a LED-lit LCD instead. If it's connected with the foil cable to the motherboard things are definately more tricky. I replaced the LCDs of all my old hardware with modern LED-lit LCDs. This let me remove the EL foil from most of the gear - sooner or later they will develop coil whine like the K5000s did, like the Wavestation A/D did... Plus the EL foil goes dim after some years, so that tech is trash. These days modern displays are available, back then things were grim and the LCDs poor compared to today's screens. Edit: Did some checking here: http://www.yamahaforums.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4184 and it seems it's a case of EL foil - however, that's mainly talking abvout SY77/TG77/SY99. Replacements used to be available here: http://www.zinguy.com/lcdpage.htm but that's a standard 240x64 LCD with LED backlight and a T6963 controller IC. You can get those from Artronic in Poland, from DigiKey and Mouser if you look at their Newhaven displays, from TME.eu etc. Plus, Ebay and AliExpress vendors. Guess the poor RS7000 needs to be opened and looked at.

Hola, back from a hellish project at work. I'm posting some hardware to Hawkeye, hopefully this week when I have a nice holiday break. There's some platform features like synth/bank switching that could be added, plus layout for approx a gillion synths we have. It will take a while, but in the end this will be nice :)

This is probably an old school LCD with a T6963C controller and a separate EL foil for backlight. I suggest getting rid of the EL foil and disconnecting the transformer that drives the EL sheet. No more coil whine, better readabilty and more more repairs. However, I suggest taking measurements of the screen assemblage and checking with some general forum like GearSlutz , or if there's some Yamaha forum where people might know.

I think that what nILS may have referred to is one of the older, standard switching regulators. The new ones that are drop ins for 78/79xx stuff tend to work in the 100s of kHz up to a MHz or so. Those aren't noisy in any bad way. Texas, Traco and Recom make fine parts.

Yep.The MBseq and x0xb0x want the TA12-series from E-switch or the PEbseries from C&K. NOT the TAC series like the Shruthi, Audiothingies P6 or the PreenFM2. Check for buyers on those forums if you don't want to ship international. I'm kind of tempted...

Kester no-clean rules! I like the 275 flux better than 245, but that's splitting hairs. Use 0.8mm (or thereabouts), unless you're to use it for fine pitch SMD. In that case stick with 0.2mm. My current roll is Kester 275 63/37 0.8mm and we get along just fine :)

Nice song and video as usual! It's getting harder to resist starting with FPV and drones :)

If you want to build something compact you can always use some standard 9mm 10k or 100k linear pots. Those don't eat up too much PCB area. On the other hand, encoders can pick up what the original value of a chosen patch was and go on from there. You might want to use pot takeover to mitigate such effects with pots.

Both the Anushri that had the inchoate version of the generative drums idea and Grids are amazing :) It would be very nice to have those ported over and available for MIDI output and recording. Really looking forward to see those in my MBseq. Actually I'd like all my gear to have it, but if the sequencer does it's more than good enough.

The LEDs are multiplexed, you might have more of a problem with motorfaders. I hate cable clutter as much as the next guy, but I would add a cheap and cheerful MeanWell switcher to a DAW controller just to be on the safe side. That way you get to connect to 115/230V directly using a normal 3-prong C14 inlet. I'd rather do that than having to use another wall wart.

Hawkeye and I are only using encoders with switches. Makes preset selection fast and painless if we so choose :yes: I like the LT1963! I was going to take a little peek at my project notes, plus visit with some local DIY gurus before I commit to any PSU design. I could write lots, but I don't want to expose the reader to a snow job so some research is in order.

There's a few different ways to get this show on the road. I'm looking at some compact MeanWell, with a 5V output. Then, making a separate 3.3V for the OLEDs, buffered with some uF- sized caps so that any OLED-related ripple won't spread to any critical voltage supply. /J

Haha, teh Juno :) All I say about the PSU is that I'm looking at some suitable MeanWell switcher. This is going to use a bit of power, both 5V and 3.3V. Seein this in motion is a great thing. I wanna return home to the solder station :cry: /J