jojjelito

Oh Goody! I was going to make sth like this, but got sidetracked. A lot. Did you print this on paper and compared it to the PCB so that everything lines up etc? One shouldn't waste paper, but wasting 32€ plus pp and some plexi isn't nice either... Going to open this at work tomorrow in Inkscape to take a peek :D Cheers!

But, does this manual go beyond old tricks like the "I just borrowed this from a friend" trick? :whistle:

Hi, Please remember that you need a rail to rail op amp if you want the output voltage to swing up to the rails. Otherwise you'd be within one diode drop (~0.7V) to 1.0V from that on the plus and minus side.

Awesome work! You, sir, are a true champion :D As always, thanks for stepping up and doing this. Best, J

Hiya! Are you in Europe or elsewhere? I have mainly Gray and White if those are of interest? Cheers! J

Music making is just short therapy, when I'm sufficiently happy I'll just build something else :D

Great track! Loved the video too :)

Hi Martin, I'm becoming a drug pusher, so there are a few knobs added to my name by Johey. Stockholm is a hungry city. Hope it all fits in a shipping box :D

Hi Martin, The Soundwell encoders were reported by Wilba to be better for modification and be of higher quality than Bourns. Here is the old thread where the detent modification is shown: It would be a good idea to get at least the minimum amount (1000) of the EC162101ZXB-HA1, more specifically EC162101E1B with switch. The variant documentation is a bit confusing, unfortunately. Link here: http://en.soundwell.cn/newEbiz1/EbizPortalFG/portal/html/ProductInfoExhibit.html?ProductInfoExhibit_ProductID=c373e91a7c13d91a8f6acbc483ecd9ba&ProductInfoExhibit_isRefreshParent=false# It could be a great future bulk to save us building LED ring boards from buying crap encoders.

So, it's not a case of the magnets acting like coils? Do you have a coil spike suppression diode connected? Just thinking out loud here. There might be a bit of an inductive kick. Or, is there a short or current rush at some point of the switching pulse? Take this for what it is, I'm just leery of anything coil like. /J

Hehe, I would say sorry if it came to be lots of n00bs causing you extra work :rofl: Hopefully it would bring a few more orders in and maybe we all could get some rebate, or you'd get some small extra rebate to keep for your trouble :yes: Something needs to be done about Soundwell encoders later... :hyper:

Awesome! Plus, thanks for the bank xfer possibility! It will save me some needed cash for other DIY insanity :blink: I took the liberty to slightly advertise this bulk over at Mutable in case some Shruthi-heads or Ambika-philes don't yet know of the awesome motherlode that is MIDIbox.

The MeanWell looks like it will do the trick. You could add some extra big and small filter capacitors at the Aout input if you're particular about switching noise.

The Kingbright WP113SRDT come with a 110deg viewing angle. OK so they're not super wide, but not extremely narrow either. Going to look further, I could always go for 3mm round LEDs since there's a larger choice but it takes some pondering this.

Wonder if I dare order 130 of those Bourns encoders, or if I should look at importing 100 plus Soundwell encoders with switch myself? The 16mm ALPS encoders are obsolete, there is some remaining stock, but none with a switch as far as I can tell. If I had the time it would be interesting to evaluate a few different encoders and set up a bulk. Then again, getting the whole load from Mouser is convenient. Also, looking at 2x5mm LEDs at Mouser, there seem to be a lot of choice around 5 and 8mcd. There's also an 80mcd red model I guess you could use if you employ serious resistors (1k or more). Hmm...

Received my boards yesterday :) They look very nice, many thanks for all your work on this!

Actually I agree with you. I wish it was easy to get hold of the good old Re'an P401 (the Sammich knob). I think that production is ongoing for their 16mm and 16mn soft-touch knobs, as well as the hard tri-color knobs. Rapid Electronics carry those at reasonable prices. All those knobs at Rapid are for T18 shafts, BTW.

Most likely the encoders come with a 6mm D-shaft. The flat is 4.5mm so this is the standard shaft, unless you go for a splined, a.k.a T18 serrated shaft. There are also 4mm and 6mm plain shafts, and 1/4" (6.35mm). Anywho, enough with the shaft sizes, it is a 6mm D-shaft if you got the recommended part. The nut that you normally want covered is either a M7 or M9 so you want a knob with a base diameter 12-13mm minimum. Of course, you should go for the aesthetically correct choice and join the Albs "Waldorf" knob bulk order that was just announced :) It is not easy to find "plain Jane" knobs without an indicator line for encoders.

Hmm, this beckons the question if I should go for backlit knobs for the LED ringery (might be over the top) or just use my stash of opaques... Decisions decisions...

Mine must have shown up while I was out and about. Many thanks for all your work! Gotta do teh saucing of all the bits now...

Welcome back!

Sure they could, but not without jumping through some interesting hoops first. What you have in the GK cable is basically audio and a couple of extra signals. This audio would have to be treated so that you can get a synth oscillator to track the frequency of the guitar string. This frequency is preferably the root note (or fundamental frequency) that the pick-up is fed. So, here you need a fast root note detection. Ok, then convert the frequency to some CV to control an oscillator somewhere, or just use the root note to reset a ramp wave which then has a different amplitude depending on how far the ramp got. Worst case: did it top out because the input frequency was lower than that of the ramp? Either way, you would then have to compensate the amplitude to be more or less constant and this is now your slave oscillator. In analog you use some kind of f-v (frequency to voltage) process. There are special chips for this even, but you'd still need to figure out the fundamental frequency first. Guitar synths are complex beasts and the task of root frequency detection and so forth is usually done with proprietary DSP algorithms these days. Or, you get a guitar that speaks MIDI, but that's another beast. You'd need some special sauce to make this process fool-proof. Then output MIDI or CV. Take a peek at Wikipedia and follow the links for some pointers, this is a complex problem

Awesome! Congrats on pulling off a kick-ass build!