Hawkeye

Congrats on getting it working again! As you heard my grumbling passage in the video tutorial "i should really get a mac" - really meant that at that time, as Windows seems to have quite buggy MIDI-USB. Restarting MIOS Studio or even Windows can help quite often. Many greets and have fun building, Peter

@Wapata great, that's exactly its intended usecase! :) (you could optionally skip the DAW part, too and just have live fun with your loops, hehe :)) BLM = button / led matrix, usually used for its bigger brother, the SEQ v4+ - in the LoopA context, it would be smaller and consist of 6x6 backlit buttons to launch (and stop) clips individually. Plus it would contain an additional column for "full scene launching", just like in a quite well-known clip-based DAW :) Have a happy weekend and thanks for your interest in it! Many greets, Peter

All is correct! Two scenes have been removed to be able to store more notes per scene (all is held in memory) and to allow the upper left pushable encoder to cycle between two states when pushed. The active scene switching mode is visualized with the top or bottom LED around the top left encoder. These two scene switching modes are available: a) (default, as before) full scene switching - when a scene is switched, sync-to-measure-start all clips from the next scene - which would often "dramatically" change what is played back, as all six tracks' clips are launched from a new scene. b) single track scene switching - only the clip of the currently active track is switched to a new scene. This will allow for "subtle" changes - i.e. you could progress a drum track, playing different clips from it, while the other five tracks keep playing the same clips. These two principal modes of scene switching are necessary, as we have a mini BLM for the LoopA at least in our mental pipeline! :). It will allow direct playback access to every stored clip. Many greets! Peter

C'est bon! Very well done! Many greets, Peter

Das ist in der Tat ziemlich unerquicklich - insbesondere da man ca 200 Pakete/Jahr versenden muss, um sich als Geschäftskunde zu bewerben...

There is a number of possible reasons, from electrostatic discharge, shock (dropping) it, to that one not being as resistant to heat, a slight manufacturing diversion, or soldering it for one second to long - maybe the soldering iron was over the central part while soldering... We had some issues with the red ones in the current batch, that's why we test-burn all of them for a few hours in LeMEC conditions (assuming you are using 47R) and only ship good ones, Andy has built a cool testbed PCB for it - which could also be used for MIDIbox RGB pixel graphics arrays later on, we will add it to the shop, when we have a bit of time. So, to answer, either this one was bad undetected, developed the fault after shipping, or the handling caused it, it is impossible to say now - that's why we put 5 of them for free into every bag of 35, so you have replacements. Can you measure the red forward voltage and compare with the other ones you have in reserve? If my theory holds, its Vf should be significantly higher than on the others, that's why it still lights up when using your DMM in diode test mode and does not light up in the LeMEC. Many greets, Peter

Agreed, the solution with tweezers and a lot of solder works nicely, had to do this a few times, too! Just try to avoid "pull-up" movements with the tweezers, as these might lift the pads. Another trick is to use two irons at once, if you have them available, even a backup 5€ cheap one from the hardware store will work :). For that, you also use a lot of solder to tin all pins first to achieve thermal conductivity. But then you heat up both sides of the smt part at once, holding both irons flat to heat up all pins. Then you can very easily push off the smt part after just two or three seconds of heating - usually no damage done and the removed part can be reused. Many greets and good luck! Peter

Hi Gerhard, thanks a lot for your efforts and work on this! We appreciate alternative parts lists a lot, they can surely help to save quite some money! One thing i've noticed while quickly browsing it: be aware, that some LEDs may have different specs regarding brightness, for example the 5mm RGB LED for the beat indicator looks like it is a "clear variant" - i've built an early version of the v4+ with one of those and it was a lot brighter than the diffused version in the mouser BOM - therefore different SJ resistors for that LED type would be required. Or you could use one of @Antichambre 's cool aftermarket beat LED diffusors :). Generally, we'd recommend not to save too much on connectors (like MIDI ports), as your sequencer should live for many years and those connectors will be exposed to some mechanical wear and tear over time - nothing is worse than a MIDI connection going bad during a live jam! :) Many greets and have fun building your v4+! Peter

@jingo great to hear, that you are happy - could you re-ask the arpeggiator/bus question over in the MIDIbox SEQ v4 release + feedback main thread? More people using it are watching it and at least TK. should have an answer :-). @synaptech you are not the only one - checked a few other parcels we sent on their way to the U.S. - it seems customs processing is slow at this time of the year. Might it have to do with the government shutdown? I found this: https://www.miq.com/resources/news/article/u.s.-federal-government-shutdown---u.s.-customs-and-border-protection-update/ I can confirm however, that one of the first v4+ cases has reached the continent of Australia and has been successfully delivered :). Many greets, Peter

Hi @jingo a happy new year to you, too! :-) The new SHIFT button equals the old SELECT button, it just changed its naming convention, but offers the same functionality, as described in the manuals. Many greets, Peter

A great start into 2019! Looks very good in red/green and the melody flashback was fantastic! Many greets, Peter

Aha, the magic smoke release! The rite of initiation! We all went through this, some people like me even multiple times, with back then superexpensive OLEDs :) Welcome to MIDIbox! :-) (I think you might have installed the cable in reverse thus swapping a few pins around) Many greets, Peter

@the_duckchild glad to hear that all works! There is a difference of filter response between 6581 and 8580 and some patches probably were made for the 6581 SIDs. You could have a look at: http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_e.html In the Ensemble menu under "FILTERs" you can change MIN, MAX, and LOG to fit to your 8580, if i remember right, especially activating "LOG" helped. Many greets and have fun! Peter

@Carsten well done, looking very good! Also thanks for documenting it, this will be helpful for people installing similar displays and experiencing the same problems! Have a good end-of-the-year and many greets, Peter

Congrats, #6 is looking good! Sorry to hear about the display, we will get it fixed! Can you make sure, that you jumpered J15_S to 3.3V on the wCore PCB? But that is probably not the problem - as you describe it, if the OLED lights up to full brightness, when it is slightly twisted, it definitely sounds like a hardware problem/cold soldering joint on the OLED PCB, just as you said. Could you send it back to us (in a Maxibrief (Warensendung), 5cm max letter "thickness", protected by bubblewrap)? No need to uninstall the pinheaders. We will refund your return shipping costs and send you a new OLED afterwards. Then, we will talk with Sunlike, the display manufacturer - they do a quality check of every display on their side before shipping out from Taiwan, but if it is a cold joint, the problem may have manifested after their test. Many greets and have a good end-of-the-year! Peter

@rbv2 Understood! If you can convince TK. that this is a new feature, that would be used by a few people, he might implement it - an implementation possibility would be as a new option "ALL affects: All Steps/Only current measure" or to change only current-measure notes in ALL mode while pressing additionally another hotkey (to indicate that only the current measure notes should be changed). @k2z3k0 from the Handbook: Undo: an undo function for the last Paste/Clear/Move/Scroll/Random operation. So, this is intentional behaviour, UNDO is just a buffer to revert the last note edit operations. Many greets and have a greet weekend! Peter

@rbv2 this section explains the ALL modes nicely: http://wiki.midibox.org/doku.php?id=mididocs:seq:beginners_guide:start#using_fast_and_all_buttons In short, it depends on where your cursor is. I tested on a 32-step (2 measures/bars) pattern and placed the cursor on a note, then in ALL mode turned the encoder where the cursor is -> this then successfully changed the notes in all two bars. Hopefully this is helpful and what you were looking for? There are also more modes like editing with a "falloff", where only neighboring notes are affected, and there is even a selection menu where you can modify which steps are modified, e.g. for rhythmic note change, all optimized for live play! I did not know that function yet, after all this years, something new to learn every day, the software is amazing! :) Many greets, Peter

@Elektruck looking great! Congrats to the completed build and thanks for uploading the pictures! :) Many greets and have a happy weekend! Peter

Thanks for reporting this! The link should be fixed now, sorry! Many greets! Peter

In case you are looking for an inexpensive and an easy-to-build MIDI THRU solution, Andy has built a new PCB for this job! :) It is good for low-latency MIDI distribution, supports normal and TRS MIDI connectors and offers a visual MIDI traffic indication using a superflux LED. Also, it is multi-chainable to 8x MIDI DIN and 6x TRS MIDI or even more outputs. Using these boards, you can extend your SEQ MIDI OUTs to drive a lot of MIDI synthesizers with minimal latency! :-). The USB port is intended for easy portable jamming setups, or you can alternatively power it via a pinheader. We've also included a build photo tutorial. https://www.midiphy.com/en/shop-details/0/35/ Enjoy and many greets! Peter

@Antichambre Bravo! Very nicely done, Bruno! Thanks a lot also for documenting your modifications, especially the MEC switches, keycaps and the Beat LED diffusor! Cool aftermarket tuning! :) Enjoy le #4! :) Many greets, Peter

@rbv2 Congrats! Thanks for uploading the picture, great to see the first v4+ out in the wild! :) Enjoy! Many greets, Peter

Looking good, the display issue should be fixable, too! :) Andy is better in debugging this, but two thoughts come to mind: 1) Can you check that on the core on J15_S the displays are jumpered to 3.3V? 2) Can you check that R33D on the core is 560R? Many greets! Peter

@Antichambre more POIDH, this could well be 'shopped :) Many greets and enjoy the build! Peter