Hawkeye

A while ago i researched that for some time, too... Power is usually not really the problem for "our" usage (i.e. drilling holes for LEDs or rotary encoders), precision is more of it. It all depends on what you want to do and how good it should look afterwards. You can buy very cheap ones, but those won´t give you anywhere the results from "pro" equipment, which is quite costly. Also, some are "faking precision" (e.g. with laser aiming) which just is not there and won´t help a lot. To keep things short, look for precision regarding the spinning axis (minimize diversion from the center) and the possibility to reduce the rpm for different tools.

me would be in, too :)

a few more things... * regarding c) does that short occur with the baseboard connected? if so, can you disconnect the baseboard and see if the short is still there? * regarding e) the meter depends on the patch, it is normal for some patches that nothing is displayed * how many SIDs do you have on the baseboard? are you using a standard c64 psu? could you re-check the voltages with everything connected? perhaps there is a voltage drop that causes strange behaviour... * have you checked for correct placement and orientation of the 74HC595s vs the 74HC165s? * have you checked the correct orientation of the resistor networks? best regards, Peter

Hmm.. interesting, when I measure R30 (can´t reach any other with my probe pins), I´ve got 10K between pins 1-5, also 10K between 2 and 3 for example and 20K between first and last pin, with ICs still in socket and CS not connected... Did you use the resistor networks included in SmashTVs base kit package or buy your own? Let´s wait for some more enlightened folks to give their opinion :-)

Mhm, its hard to tell, maybe some other folks have opinions on this... in the third picture, some joints do not seem to be soldered/tinned... Also for stability reasons, i would solder the stabilizers of the rotary encoders to the CS PCB. You said that you have tested this CS with another baseboard, that works fine with another CS, therefore the problem must be on this CS (Sherlock Holmes :-)), not the resistor networks (which i assumed in last mail). You can always try cleaning flux with alcohol and a toothbrush, sometimes it hides very tiny bridges. Best regards, Peter

Have you insulated the LCD display as described in the photo tutorial? If not, it can cause shorts on the CS.

Hi, Could you post higher-res pictures of the front and backside of the CS PCB? Best regards, Peter

Danke!

As Wilba said, it is possible to cut any transparent material (acrylics or glass) just roughly and glue it to the backside of the aluminum frontpanel.

Du könntest vor dem Messen den Tausch-Test machen, damit kriegste raus ob es nicht vielleicht an einem SID selber liegt. Danach miss doch mal zwischen Pins 14 und 28, es sollten ziemlich genaue 9V oder 12V, abhängig von Deinen SIDs, anliegen. Pin-Belegung u.a. hier: http://www.dopeconne...net/C64_SID.htm

Danke :-) Ich werde mal bei Gelegenheit eines der beiden Designs ausprobieren! Letzte Frage, wenn ich das obere Design wählen würde (Thrysistor-Brechstange :-)), brauch ich einen TIC106 in der N, M oder D Ausführung? Danke und viele Grüße, Peter

Haste mal die beiden SIDs vertauscht? Wechselt dann auch der "schwache" Kanal? Kannste mal die Spannung, die an den SIDs anliegt im laufenden Betrieb messen und hier posten?

Hier gefunden: http://www.retro-don...wernetzteil.php ist sehr ähnlich zu einigen anderen Designs, die hier im Forum kursieren, wollte mal bei den Elektronik-Bewanderten nachfragen, ob das Ding gut aussieht? Soweit ich das erkennen kann, ist eine Crowbar-Schaltung verbaut, die bei Überspannung (Versagen des 7805-Spannungswandlers) einen Kurzschluß erzeugt und dadurch die verbauten Feinsicherungen durchschmelzen lässt. Hab ich das richtig geschnallt? Hab ordentlich Angst, daß mein 25 Jahre altes C64-"Elefantenfuß"-Netzteil irgendwann mal zuviel Saft durch die MB6582 pumpt ;-). Danke für Euer Feedback! Ciao und viele Grüße, Peter

yeah, now it´s clear... it is more evil then "acquiring" for sure, because when "acquiring" you only lose your money... with the "b"-kind of syndrome you also lose your time :)

:-) thx! These keypads would be good for the classic 16x16 matrix, too, right? (sorry for thread hijacking) back on thread: how do you want to realise the switching between 8x16 BLM-mode and the "other sequencer functions" (such as copy/paste, play/stop), which are in the BLM area?

Gear Bragging Syndrome? heheh, scnr ;-)

Hi! Nice! You can also use the JB-Weld + Hex-Spacer method to avoid all those expensive blind holes. Also, phunk does not recommend them (in another thread) as there may be some visible signs on the front side. It is my impression that you do not need so many of them, 1/4 or even 1/16 of them in the "blm area" is sufficient, especially if the aluminum panel is thick (3mm), as ilmenator said. Which illuminated tactile switches + button caps will you use? Edit: forget that question, found the livid instruments website :-) Best regards, Peter

Ha, that´s what i call proper tutorial-following ;-) Excellent choice regarding the weight!

Die hier haben sich auf Nachbauten von cooler Technologie spezialisiert. Einfach mal nachfragen und nicht lockerlassen.

just try it and tell us your observations, dude :) if they are too different, you can probably swap it with someone else here on the forum, who needs a r3 or a r4.

Yes, it might differ, but at least for my eight 8580s (all different revisions) i cannot hear a difference... If the volume level is different, this should be adjustable in the mix. If I interpret wikipedia right, you have a R3 and a R4 without any audible difference 6581 R3 - Will say "6581" only, "6581 R3" or "6581 CBM" on the package. Had a minor change to the protection/buffering of the input pins. Made from before 2083 until 0786 or so.6581 R4 AR - Will say "6581 R4 AR" on the package. Minor adjustment to the silicon grade, no die change from R4. Produced from around 1986 (week 30) until at least the year 1990. Best regards and have fun! Peter

no problemo - make sure you do not mix different voltage types though (6581 12v vs 8580/6582 9v)