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4x20 Lcds for Wilbas Kit : CLOSED

Altitude

By Altitude
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huck MIDIbox Newbie

huck

Posted
Posted

think that i made it in the nick of time. cause the invoice was still good. sorry i was last minute. forgot to do it till just now. thanks for putting this together.

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Wilba MIDIbox Guru

Wilba

Posted
Posted

Wilba, did you count me into the LCD's? If not any left over? Im up for one for sure if so!

No, I only got one for myself  ;D

Wilba MIDIbox Guru

Wilba

Posted
Posted

Haven't had the time to wire it up, but frankly I'd rather wait until I know what way of wiring it up will work out best for the CS PCB.

I've been too busy to create the LCD wiring guide, it's top of the list.

If you're adventurous, do this:

- connect IDC connector to 16 wire ribbon cable so that the red wire is pin 1. Looking at the port on the PCB, you want the cable to go away from the PIC, not over the top of it. Do not attach the extra "stress relief" bit of plastic - i.e there are three parts to the IDC connector, leave off the last part (there's no room in the PT-10 case for this!)

- ultimately you will round the cable (separate all wires and tape together into a rounded bundle instead of flat ribbon). So you can attach the rounded cable up the side of the PT-10 (top part) and then along the top edge and then down to the LCD pins. Cut the cable at 50 cms, this should be more than enough. If it's too long when you finally get your PT-10 and assemble, you can always move the IDC connector closer.

- strip and connect all wires to the LCD's pins on the bottom, coming from the top.. Yes I know this is pretty obvious but it needs saying. The LCD will be screwed to the PCB from behind, as close as it can go. So try not to let solder go into the holes and create bumps on the top side of the LCD. Don't put wires into the holes, solder them flat against the contact leading away from the LCD. Later you can put sticky tape on the front side of the LCD's PCB to prevent electrical contacts with the control surface PCB.

- the easy way to handle the LCD/J15 wiring differences is to split the wires about 15cm and use sticky tape to hold them reordered.

- you can mount the LCD to the control surface PCB with 2.5mm screws, I use flat washers and spring washers as well.

- remember it's not too bad if you have to resolder this cable, and it's more important to have this display connected when you're constructing the base PCB than waiting until you finish the control surface.

- this guide is good:

http://www.midibox.org/users/jim_henry/building_a_midibox_lcd_cable.pdf

but I advice not to put the wires into the holes, rather solder them flat against the pads, that's just to keep the other side of the pads flat (no solder blobs or wire)

DavidBanner MIDIbox Guru

DavidBanner

Posted
Posted

yippie - mine arrived in the post today!!

We've had a post strike so it's everything has been taking ages.

Thank you so much Altitude - it put a big smile on my face when I got it at the post office!

  • 3 weeks later...
MOONRAKER MIDIbox Newbie

MOONRAKER

Posted
Posted

yeppa - thanxxx

i still wait for answer my quenstion about

sending them to germany - they only sell to the us

as it seems and also only 5 of 18 left - wow - quick

robert lowell MIDIbox Newbie

robert lowell

Posted
Posted

be careful, maybe one lcd is cheap but each additional item costs 6,50$, for  what?  earning money over shipment?

be careful?  buying two is US$17.50 ... i'm no math major but that's still less than US$26.00 the price of one LCD in the group buy.  a deals a deal.

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