nILS

As a small heads-up: The stm32 on the core32 module is solderable by hand without any voodoo. And it's a good bit smaller than the gm5. The gm5 you see in the pic is my "let's see when it'll die"-gm5. It's been soldered and desoldered ~10 times using different techniques. And it's still happily doing its job. So: no worries, pay attention to what you're doing and you'll be fine! :yes:

+1 "hyper" (greek) and "super" (latin) meaning "beyond", "above" I can only assume the red is beyond red on the spectrum (towards 750nm cause otherwise it would be orange), so it's most likely hemi-semi-hypo-infra-red. :frantics:

Going back to 1.9d shouldn't be necessary. What do you get after the update (with only MIOS installed) - nothing, black bars, "Ready."? From the link I assume you wired the display in 4bit mode? Did you upload the correct mios version (for pic 18F4685)? Are you using the latest release of SIDv2? Older ones might initialize in 8bit mode by default (too lazy to check).

Welcome aboard Analog Man :flowers: It's really good that you put that in all caps, otherwise we might have missed it :rolleyes: What you want to do is fairly easy and definitely doable. Now, to answer your question: Read this and everything that's linked from the main page, then the info about the modules you found out you will need here.

[x] POIDH

All orders are shipped. I'm all out of red PCBs. There's some white ones left. Sign up now for those or preorder for bulk-order #3 :)

PSU doesn't supply enough current. Get a new/different one.

Yep, that's correct. I was just assuming that what I described was TK's intention - I might be wrong with that though. Thanks for bringing it up though, I am pretty sure TK will look into it once he gets back :)

Yes and no. The steps aren't equally spaced with 1R to ground, that's right. Every other step is a "bit higher". It does bring the benefit of being able to have different configurations (2x8 bits that are identical, 1x12 + 1x4 bits). If you don't need the options you can easily adjust the 2 resistors to ground to get equal steps.

You could alsbo split the signal from the midi input (google "midi thru schem") and put a LED on one of the outputs. With a 74HC14 you get 6 inverters and you need 3 per LED (invert -> 2x uninvert => led + midi in/out) so you could do MIDI In and Out with just one IC. Just a thought :)

If you can't find any info you can always measure the size from decent pics (like here)

[x] Switching PSU bad (way more noise, shouldn't lead to failure though) [x] 7.2 Watts (600mA @ 12V) seems to be too little for your box. Depending on your LCD and backlight you want more oomph!

That sounds like there's some stuff missing or can't be found. Since it's fairly hard to guess what that may be please do the following: 1) Open a command prompt like you usually do, and do what you do to get to the point where you try to make the app 2) Type "set mios" and post the results here 3) Type "make --version" and post the results here Then we'll take it from there :)

...and that is because your PSU is not regulated. If it were, it would _always_ output 12V, not some other voltage depending on the load.

Both the input and the output are stereo.

Simple: Cause you can.

That's correct one big upload will both update MIOS and the application. "Big" sounds slow, but in fact it's a lot faster than your average MIOS8 app upload - thanks to USB. On a blank chip you'll need to install "the uploader" via JTAG, that's correct.

Did you properly install the toolchain as per WIKI?

Yes.

Neato :thumbsup:

Was man bei den Trafos am einfachsten falsch machen kann ist etwas, das weh tut. 230V. Ich weiß nicht wieviel Erfahrung Du damit hast, daher einfach mal die pauschale Variante: Schön vorsichtig, vorm wurschteln Stecker ziehen, Sicherungen nicht vergessen, Schrumpfschlauch ist ein Muss, alles 3x mehr überprüfen (also 6x) ;)

Awwww :flowers: Looking forward to it!