freddy

Glad to hear it worked for you, I hope you'll go the DIY way when solving next issue

Good to know, the other one was just first google result for inspiration.

Michael, though not being an expert on this topic I don't think you'll get it working that easy with ordinary USB-MIDI converters. The reason is that with two connected USB devices one has to act as a host (controlling the communication), the other as a guest (performing the tasks). Host is usually the PC/MAC and guest is e.g. the MIDI converter or the keyboard in your case. Connecting keyboard with an ordinary MIDI converter will effectively connect two guests with no host to control the communication, so what you need is a device that acts as a host, e.g. http://www.kentonuk.com/products/items/utilities/usb-host.shtml. I'm not saying this particular one will work but in general, these are more costly devices compared to USB guest converters and more intelligent (which is a feature you probably won't use in the setup described), this particular one seems to be dumb enough so it doesn't cost you a fortune, though. Hope this helps, freddy

PM sent about the SSM2044 PCB.

AndyJot, interested in one set, can you please PM me with s&h costs to Slovakia and payment details? Cheers, freddy

PM sent, too, just in case :-)

Interested in builing 1 piece.

How about 5 EUR for "512er Banksticks"? Shipping to Slovakia.

Got mine, thanks a bunch!

Hmm, looks like the dunes of Corralejo :-) Awesome tune and awesome vid!

PM sent :-)

hi, is it the actual Yamaha or NEC clone?

mfk got 1 pair from sneakthief, if I read it right he asks for two additional pairs meaning for me only a single would remain? Did I get it right?

Count me in for two pairs, please.

bought some beers, too. Cheers, TK, thanks for all the amazing work!

Got mine, thanks a bunch! now off to building :rolleyes:

EsotericLabs, if you didn't go for the eBay way I do have both, the connector with no cable, however, but as individual components (pins, housing and straight PCB male part), no problem to crimp a cable for you if needed. Located in Slovakia, might you be interested? Cheers, freddy

alchemist, You can plug them in series, that way the step-down and therefore temperature on the individual stages will be much lower but beware that the "earlier" regulator in the chain needs to be sized for the following stages as well! This might result in a 3A package (TO3) with a heatsink for the 12V stage, maybe even the 9V. Also, the transformer needs to be properly sized. Of course, this depends on the actual power you need. Htg, freddy

Martin, did I get it right that you *might* be willing to organize a bulk order (when the time comes) for e.g. 10 Heidenreich cases with TK's dimensions as long as front panels are sorted out individually (or doing BO for that one as well)? The actual number depends on the guys who will be in, I guess. Regardless I'm still in for two cases, I already do have front panels (even without the cut out but I'll fix the CS PCB in a way orange_hand or TK have described, so no biggie for me), I only have to sort out back panel but I'll definitely do that individually. Thanks, Adrien

EsotericLabs, sorry it took so long. I found the displays (two blue ones) but didn't test them - they do not have 16pin header soldered and are vanilla ones. I see Voti has green/yellow ones for 15.25€, I found blue ones in a local parts store for 13.22€ (on sale currently and almost gone already, http://www.gme.sk/lcd-displej-everbouquet-mc4002d7-sblw-p513-168 in czech language, alas). Mine are equivalent (type says MC4002D-SBL), I can part them for 12€ each (plus actual s&h from Slovakia) if still interested. Cheers, freddy

I think I have one, let me check my spares tomorrow, I'll get back to you.

jjonas, unfortunately I found that I have no 18F4685 lying around to test the settings for you. I do have some other chips but these settings are chip-specific so "similiar" doesn't really help. Also, I just found that my programmer is an even older one - SmartProg so I'm afraid I won't be much help for you, sorry :sad:

Jjonas, I'd go for XT first. Give it a try, no problem erasing the chip and try another option if it doesn't work. Cheers, freddy

Jjonas, I do have the Elnec programmer as well (I think even version 2, definitely the LPT one, not USB) and I do remember the oscillator settings needed to be changed, not sure about the actual values though. It was definitely referring to XTAL settings. Apparently, the SmartProg is much too smart and offers way too many configuration options compared to other programmers ;-) Not sure if I have a 4685 lying arond to test, if I do find one I can test the config bits if you don't succeed, just let me know.

It's a 2x40 HD44780-compatible one, no reason why it shouldn't work like a charm.