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Shuriken

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Everything posted by Shuriken

  1. I did use something similar to JB Weld to fix the hex nuts (its called Bison Kombi Metaal). I also have a panel with corner holes. So i ordered m3 ones looking like these from ebay:
  2. wonders what's up with all the spammers on the forum lately

  3. That's correct. raoulblues only posted some pictures and a firmware file. A schematic...or atleast a brief description of the used MB modules would be appriciated.
  4. I have the Korg TopWave 32, NEC XR385 and Terratec Wave XTable. They are all compatible connection wise.
  5. I do have a XR385 NEC board. But at the moment it is housed in a Korg NS5R. So no inputs available only output. As a coincidence i was looking into this topic again. I pm-ed Nomical to see what solution he came up with. But haven't heard from him yet.
  6. I have only come across the same info as you found. I assume you have been reading this topic But according to the datasheet of the used codec, a opamp isn't required. The line in schematic looks like: 0.47u 470 Input >--||---^^^----|----*codec | 2.2n = | GND
  7. It's not a big mystery. There are just two defining features: Size and Speed I think the size part is pretty obvious. As for the speed: The following are the ratings of some currently available cards: * Class 2: 16 Mbit/s (2 MB/s) * Class 4: 32 Mbit/s (4 MB/s) * Class 6: 48 Mbit/s (6 MB/s) * Class 10: 80 Mbit/s (10 MB/s) The highspeed ones are used in camera's where speed really matters. These are a bit more expensive. The Class 2 and 4 ones are similarly priced. So either of those should do the trick as i don't think speed is a big issue in this case. For size you will probably do fine with a 1 GB one. I don't think you can buy much smaller ones these days.
  8. Cool thanks...i took the liberty of adding a public shopping cart to the page.
  9. I kinda want to order my parts so i am able to start. I haven't found any partlist for the SSM2164 VCA yet. I guess Seppoman hasn't come round to it yet. So far i deducted from the photo's the following: P1,P2,P3,P4 - PV36W - 10K Precision Trimmer IC1 - SSM2164 IC2,IC3 - TL074CN OpAmp IC Socket - 2x 14 IC Socket - 1x 16 Single Header 3 Pin x 5 Double Header 8 Pin x 1
  10. I noticed you fixed them today. So tell us your secret :ahappy:
  11. I had to drive to the otherside of town due to some mailman mix up. But is was well worth it. Thanks Thomas :thumbsup: :heart: the black PCB.
  12. You could try the which is currently underway. I do have a YMF262 which is a pull. But you won't get very far withit without any YAC512.
  13. Have you read this page? http://www.ucapps.de/mios32_bootstrap_experts.html There is some links to JTAG Adapters.
  14. I see you killed you OPL3 board desoldering. I sure know how that feels :whistle:
  15. Open your Commodore up to be sure what type it is. You wont be murdering it...just crippling :whistle: The SID chip is in a socket.
  16. 1xSID, 1xCORE will give you what you want, but won't easily let you upgrade to MB6582 (well you can use the PIC and the SID chip...but that's it) The MB6582 won't fit a C64 case (first model) it might fit the second model but it would be a snug fit. I think you should stick with the 1xSID, 1xCORE and gain some experience.
  17. Not much you can do to test the components separatly. I would suggest replacing one DAC. If you then still have distorted sound on that channel, replace the YMF262.
  18. As my MB6582 is nearing completion, i need to start building a decent PSU. At first i thought about using Northernligthx design but there are some flaws. I spoke to him and he told me his design isn't working well at the moment. So i decided to make my own design taking his as inspiration. I want to use a 2 x 12V Transformer: On another electronics forum i was warned about latch-up. So i want to change the design and add a latchup protection. It's supposed to be done by adding some diodes. But i am not sure how. So i would be helped if anybody could tell me how.
  19. Upload the testone app and check voltages. Especially 5V. Check across different components. Also how long are your leads from Core to OPL3 board?
  20. Should work. Its not compatible with certain types of plastic. Those will probably dissolve. Probably not recommended to spray it on switches and pots. But those are usually on the otherside of the pcb. 99% Isopropyl alcohol will also do the trick.
  21. I think you should put these extra features on a nice-to-have list. And focus on the main concept. This will be hard enough to realize.
  22. At this point the front panel design is something which comes from Hurolola. As it is, it doesn't justify using a Core32. A bunch of knobs can be realized with the use of a Midibox64 as Alexk has so elegantly showed us with his I agree that with compromising on all fronts you end up with something that excel at nothing. The controller keyboard i have at the moment has the same problem you mentioned. It has a bunch of knobs, but i can never remember which one is for what :frantics: , especially when trying to control different synths with it. My idea was to create a control interface something looking more like the Arturia Origin. Less knobs and more flexible. It would be nice though to create something that would appeal to a lot of people. So any input is appreciated.
  23. I have a question about the diodes. As the choice for the 1N4008 seems a bit odd to me. The 1N4008 is 1A only. Since the current draw is theoratically 3A (7812,7809 and 7805 combined) wouldn't it be more logical to choose the 1N5401 which is rated up to 3A?
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