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Posted

Quick question: Is there any reason NOT to have the tact and LED combined into a backlit button? This looks like a really good fit (i.e. LED right above the tact) for my laser cut led+tact combo similar to what Sasha was working on ways back..

Posted

Quick question: Is there any reason NOT to have the tact and LED combined into a backlit button? This looks like a really good fit (i.e. LED right above the tact) for my laser cut led+tact combo similar to what Sasha was working on ways back..

Except for the higher costs there is no reason - it will work! :)

Just only keep in mind, that duo-colour LEDs can't be used because of the way how LEDs are multiplexed.

Best Regards, Thorsten.

Posted

Except for the higher costs there is no reason - it will work! :)

Just only keep in mind, that duo-colour LEDs can't be used because of the way how LEDs are multiplexed.

Best Regards, Thorsten.

Yep, understood. Single color was all I was planning for. This is just laid out perfectly for how I wanted to make my buttons anyway. The whole "low cost" thing never really works out for my projects :P

Posted

Bug report: MIDI slave mode doesn't work if the clock is received via MIDI IN1 or IN2

A fix is in place (-> SVN repository) and will be released with the next version.

If somebody needs this earlier, just let me know.

Best Regards, Thorsten.

Posted

Hi TK,

Which resistors should I change to get the green leds brighter?

I need to do this as my leds' are coming through a solid piece of acrylic rod i am using as buttons and they (leds) are a little too soft as it is.

cheers

Paul

Posted

The brightness depends on R8-R16 - you could try if lower values help by adding a second 100 Ohm resistor in parallel (-> results into 50 Ohm)

Btw.: for "cross-readers": such a low resistor value is only allowed if LEDs are driven time multiplexed from microcontroller pins which are limited to ca. 20 mA. Never use such a configuration when LEDs are directly connected to a PSU!

I'm unsure if the buttons are still working with such a low value, your feedback is welcome!

Best Regards, Thorsten.

Posted

thanks thorsten for the info.

will be looking forward for this fix. till it´s done the sequencer must be the master .

have nice holidyas.

hope you will get nice gifts.

br,

cit aka thorsten :thumbsup:

Posted

Okay, stupid question (maybe):

- i finished building the control surface, the wirings and the LPC core.

How can i verify if the wirings and everything is correct ? (i'll have the sdcard adapter in the next days, so then stuff is probably easier).

any chance thru mios studio ?

thx

jan

Posted

The sequencer will already work without a connected SD Card. In this case, the firmware will hang for the first 5 seconds (to search for the SD Card), the LED will show an animated progress bar. Without a SD Card, Load/Store and the Copy/Paste/Undo function won't work.

In addition, you can check the system status with various commands in MIOS Terminal - just type "help".

Best Regards, Thorsten.

Posted

V4L.055 is now available for download:


MIDIboxSEQ V4L.055
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

o LPC17 build: optimized MIDI IN handling

o LPC17 build: MIDI clock can now be received over MIDI IN1..4

o SysEx forwarding via MIDI router working (again)

o MIDI router supports 16 nodes now! (previously only 8)

o added new MIOS terminal commands:
- display network informations, modify network and OSC settings
- display MIDI router informations, modify MIDI router settings
- change BLM port remotely
- "store" and "restore" the session remotely

o it's now possible to set the loop point of a track:
press&hold the LENGTH button, thereafter select the loop point with a GP button.

o BLM now supports Lemur on iPad
Example configuration (we assume that iPad IP address is 192.168.1.110):
- set osc_remote 3 192.168.1.110
- set osc_local_port 3 8000
- set osc_remote_port 3 8000
- set osc_mode 3 1
- set blm_port OSC3
- store
These commands can be entered in MIOS terminal
On your iPad, set the IP address of your MIDIbox with port 8000

o BLM now allows to record MIDI notes in the keyboard page
[/code]

More informations on the Lemur based BLM can be found under:

blm16x16+x_lemur4.jpg

It's a great enhancement for MBSEQV4L :)

Best Regards, Thorsten.

Posted (edited)

it seems that the new firmware makes some midi stucks .

The sequencer stucks when i change a parameter of my dx7. maby i change a tune of aoperator the sequencer stucks a tick /sample or two .

seems that the sequence gets to mutch information in that second.

i think there must be a sysex or cc filter when it is not in recording mode.

any how hope you have an idea.

i have too look if this also happen in the old firmware.

by the way happy new year and thanks for your work.

:sorcerer:

Edited by cit
Posted

This is a typical MIDI issue caused by the limited bandwidth.

In order to estimate, if an optional filter makes sense, I would like to know if the issue also happens if the MIDI forwarding function is disabled (-> press the "In->Out" button), and your Dx7 is working in "Local On" mode.

Best Regards, Thorsten.

Posted

@TK

The dim led problem is not a dim led problem it is a dim builder problem blush.gif.

Because of the way I have mounted the leds the light shines from the side of the led up the acrylic shaft.....like below

post-7091-0-11271600-1325465297_thumb.jp

I am going to alter it so that the tip of the led transmits the light up the shaft and hopefully it will work a lot better (brighter).

I am going to change the 5mm rod for 8mm which allows a bigger slot to be machined into the rod for the led.

cheers

Paul

Posted (edited)

Hello Folks,

its possible to use a 512mbyte SD-card ?

or its a must have to use more than 1Gbyte SD-cards ?

best regards

Patrick

Edited by DSL-man
Posted

Hello folks,

my boards are finished. (soldered and seq4l firmware is flashed successfull)

but i have a few errors:

when the seq4lite is connect the LED 1-5 goes up and down, to the same time the LEd12- Led16 goes random up and down.

but the leds 6- 11 are off !

in the mios studio are following logs:

[5347.125] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:6, Pin:3 not mapped, it has been pressed.

[5347.145] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:2, Pin:4 not mapped, it has been pressed.

[5347.265] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:2, Pin:4 not mapped, it has been depressed.

[5347.285] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:6, Pin:3 not mapped, it has been depressed.

[5349.125] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:6, Pin:1 not mapped, it has been pressed.

[5349.145] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:2, Pin:6 not mapped, it has been pressed.

[5349.241] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:2, Pin:6 not mapped, it has been depressed.

[5349.261] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:6, Pin:1 not mapped, it has been depressed.

[5349.741] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:6, Pin:2 not mapped, it has been pressed.

[5349.761] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:2, Pin:5 not mapped, it has been pressed.

[5349.805] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:6, Pin:2 not mapped, it has been depressed.

[5349.825] [sEQ_UI_Button_Handler] Button SR:2, Pin:5 not mapped, it has been depressed.

any idea ??

Posted

I just completed the build today, WOW! It's fantastic, much more so than I was expecting!

Thanks for a truly great project.

:flowers:

when the seq4lite is connect the LED 1-5 goes up and down, to the same time the LEd12- Led16 goes random up and down.

but the leds 6- 11 are off !

The J15_S jumper has to be mounted (-> select the 5V option)

Seems that I really have to improve the documentation for this topic!

Best Regards, Thorsten.

Posted (edited)

ah ok it works thanks !

next testing..

--->

LED´s run normal - but no buttons works !

p.s: in the mios console i can start the sequencer.

--> failure found -> J10 cable wrong..

Edited by DSL-man
Posted

Just started putting mine together and I have found that I have the wrong tact switches (mine have a smaller footprint):sad:

So that I don't mess up again, does anyone have a Farnell part number for the correct ones?

Thanks, Kevin

Posted

Just started putting mine together and I have found that I have the wrong tact switches (mine have a smaller footprint):sad:

Interesting, as I thought the same when I tried to use the ones recommended in the Reichelt shopping list (though with a slightly longer shaft). Either they (Reichelt) have different footprints depending on shaft length (which I doubt), or the footprint does not match at all to begin with. Has it changed during the transition from prototype to Smash-TV boards? Or are we just overly picky (I could squeeze them in somehow, but they won't sit flush on the PCB then)???

Posted

Interesting, as I thought the same when I tried to use the ones recommended in the Reichelt shopping list (though with a slightly longer shaft). Either they (Reichelt) have different footprints depending on shaft length (which I doubt), or the footprint does not match at all to begin with. Has it changed during the transition from prototype to Smash-TV boards? Or are we just overly picky (I could squeeze them in somehow, but they won't sit flush on the PCB then)???

Exactly the same - they will squeeze in, but then sit slightly proud of the PCB. As I am building two, I'll do one now, with these switches and leave the other one until I find better fitting parts.

Kevin

Posted

Same here, i just went with having them floating about 1mm above the pcb. That's the way most of them align, when pushed in. For some, a little correction is needed though.

Posted

Interesting, as I thought the same when I tried to use the ones recommended in the Reichelt shopping list (though with a slightly longer shaft). Either they (Reichelt) have different footprints depending on shaft length (which I doubt), or the footprint does not match at all to begin with. Has it changed during the transition from prototype to Smash-TV boards? Or are we just overly picky (I could squeeze them in somehow, but they won't sit flush on the PCB then)???

The footprints are identical, we used the default switch of the KiCad library.

It matches with the typical 0.01 inch grid measures, and since I'm normally using veroboards for frontpanels, I'm used to squeeze the pins. ;)

Does anybody know if there is an optimized version for these switches?

Best Regards, Thorsten.

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