ilmenator

Nice to see some new playground projects coming along! And more than useful, I think this could be a crucial extension which could bring new life to the community! I'm excited!

Kein Problem, ich packe dir noch zwei Taster und zwei Kappen zur TPD-Platine dazu. Kannst du mir dann bitte noch 2€ "nachschieben"? Viele Grüße, ilmenator

Let's put it this way: it is still on my to do list, but this list has not become any shorter in the last years... In the meantime, and if you're in a hurry, you might want to check out the WaveRex card, which does many things the MIDIbox SCE would be able to do (plus some more, but then again not everything ;-)).

Great that you soved it!

I guess the easiest solution would be to put in the other six missing banksticks!? At least on my MBSID that seems to work just fine...

Yes, but that's all theory, grab a multimeter to check continuity between the pins and you'll know what is going on on your board!

It is pin 9 to 14 as in the schematic. If you measure anything else on your PCB, you have found a problem!

Hi, I'm not sure I totally understand what you are doing but I'll try to help. 1) The four duo-color LEDs associated with the four buttons on the TPD are not supposed to do anything in the standard setup. You will need to assign them to some functionality in the setup file to make them work (under "LED assignments to DOUT pins"). 2) It seems you are trying to extend the DOUT chain beyond the TPD, is that right? That should work if you have your hardware right, but you'll have to get the SR numbering right as well. Check which SR the above mentioned LEDs are connected to. The next DOUT in the chain has an SR number that is one higher than that of the above mentioned LEDs. If that's not what you are trying to do please let me know!

Yay, Vegas Mode is already implemented!

Hi otropom, take a look at the WIKI, PCBs are still available as well as complete kits. There is a BOM that lets you estimate the total cost, depending mainly on the switches you want to use. Best, ilmenator

For the FM a PIC18F452 is the standard option - I can provide that as well, still have some of those around I think. To the US shipping will be 7€ including tracking. It's cheaper (4,70€) if you don't want tracking, but I'm not sure I would recommend that...

I have a number of pre-programmed PIC 18F4685 for sale, already flashed with the latest MIOS. I recently flashed them to help out a fellow MIDIbox community member building an MBSID, but who is not responding to PMs anymore... Shoot me a PM if interested, asking price is 7,50€ (what I payed) per piece plus shipping. I am located in Germany. Regards, ilmenator

Interesting, as the part series is the same for all IDC female connectors. Maybe a consequence of lesser friction with fewer pins? A little hot glue or fixogum would help here. If there are further complaints/concerns I could look for another part. I can confirm enveevee's observation. Those grey 3M connectors are a very loose fit, causing the tight cables to slip off the pin headers when trying to mount the case. I had to redo this a number of times and ended up Behringer-style: hot-glueing the whole thing.

You can just tear these cables apart - if you have a 34wire one, that will give you three 10wire ones (plus a remainder).

This indicates wrong handling of self-tapping screws. (Even when inserting these the first time, usually no metal is sheared off.) When re-inserting the screws, metal shavings indicate that you have tried to cut new threads, which is bad because after the second or third time you will have basically ruined the thread or the screw (or both) and the case will no longer hold together. Therefore, to avoid this , you need to do the following: when putting the case back together, insert the screw loosely and turn it counterclockwise with the screwdriver until it sinks down into the thread (!) - only then start driving in the screw with a clockwise rotation. You'll notice that the screw moves without much resistance, as it does not cut a new thread but just enters the existing one. Now you only need to make sure not to overtighten the screw and you're good. No metal shavings and no problems even after opening up the case many times...

Nice! And you have a Shruthi there as well!

Good to hear you solved it! Any pictures of the new SEQ and the culprit LEDs?

In my studio I've had a similar problem, but I am not keen on leaving the traditional MIDI 5pin realm - I can live with physical MIDI routing (and merging), and I don't require the central point of the matrix to be a PC or Mac. All of my synths, effects and other equipment still have 5pin DIN connectors. Around four years ago I came up with the MIDIbox Matrix, a proof of concept that does MIDI routing on an FPGA. In the meantime and with the help of a few people the project has evolved into something that has 64 MIDI in ports and 64 MIDI out ports, that allows merging, and that can be controlled by a piece of java software from the PC (or by a dedicated MIDIbox control UI). The main concepts of modularity and scalability have remained, though, so that the system can be extended in groups of 4 I/O ports that sit in a break out box (BOB). I guess I should really update the documentation to reflect the current state...

I still have some PICs from the olden days and can flash them, but located in Germany. Shoot me a PM if you want to go that route.

Just for documentation purposes, here are synaptech's images:

Connecting the upper red LED to this one did not help - it was still not lighting up in the fluxtest. Replacing the LED helped, BUT: after unsoldering it, outside of the circuit, all three colors of the presumably faulty LED light up, and with the expected brightness. I'm dead sure this was not a soldering issue. Question: what was it then?

Hallo zusammen, wie die meisten hier wahrscheinlich wissen, bediene ich immer wieder Anfragen von MIDIboxern weltweit nach TPD- oder BLM16x4-Platinen. Leider hat die Deutsche Post zum 1.1.2019 die AGBs geändert und erlaubt Privatkunden (und nur diesen!) nicht mehr, im Brief International auch andere Dinge als Dokumente zu verschicken. Damit haben sich die Versandkosten z.B. für eine TPD-Platine von 1,50€ auf mindestens 16,00€ (Päckchen International) vervielfacht und stehen in keinem Verhältnis mehr zum "Warenwert". Ich habe gerade die Petition 'Einführung der Versandart Warensendung International für PrivatkundInnen' unterschrieben und würde mich sehr freuen, wenn ihr auch mitmacht. Je mehr Menschen die Petition unterstützen, desto größer ist die Wahrscheinlichkeit, dass sie Erfolg hat. Hier könnt ihr mehr über die Kampagne erfahren und unterzeichnen: https://weact.campact.de/petitions/einfuhrung-der-versandart-warensendung-international-fur-privatkundinnen Viele Grüße, ilmenator

Here you have a photo (or two). In the upper one, the culprit is in the second Mathias row, the sixth from the right (third from left) Yes, as the blue LED will work flawlessly. Yes, all buttons and encoders work as they should, on all boards. Yes, that's right. Outside of the circuit, all three colors will light up when testing. Inside the circuit, I cannot get the red LED to light up with the multimeter. Not yet, because that possibility does not seem logical to me, as the LED works as it should when removed from the PCB. Ok let's say I do this and it works, what does that tell me? In order to being able to do my own thinking as well, the schematics would be really helpful. Are these available somewhere? Thanks, ilmenator

I have a problem with the superflux LEDs, more precisely with the 6th LED of the second row (on the smaller board). I am on the red/blue color scheme. The fluxtest does not light up the red LED on the mentioned superflux LED, but everything else works. The LED itself is working, though - when I separate it from the circuit and test it with the multimeter, all three colors work, also red. Where is this specific LED connected to? Should I search for a short circuit somewhere?

Success, no more jittering and the encoder seems to behave normally. Thanks for the quick reply!