nILS

I am usually working with variable-width fonts as well. Has lots of advantages, but makes aligning text a lot harder. A pretty nice workaround is (if you use smallish fonts and have all upper-case letters anyways) to use fixed-width upper-case and variable-width lower-case letters :)

Hotlink dead.

Combine something big and small - smaller is typically faster and bigger has more oomph - you want both. Somewhere between 10-100uF + ~100nF should work well.

Nein, aber der Verpackung nach hast Du die kostenfrei von Microchip bekommen. Das ist zu Evaluationszwecken für Firmen gedacht. Nicht für den Hobbyist, der die Dinger dann auf eBay verhökert.

Pin 8 should be Vd - was that a typo?

What kind of noise do you get? 50/60Hz hum or digital noise or? In short: No, a DI box won't remove the noise that is already in the signal. Fix that. Impedance: See http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_opl3.pdf

Only the PIC with the ID0 displays anything. The software checks for the ID and if it's not 0, it doesn't even try to do any CS stuff, since it assumes it's a slave PIC. So to use a PIC with device ID 1..3 in a sammichSID you'd need to download the change_id app from ucapps.de and use it to change the PIC ID first. Then reupload the mbSID app.

Schau am besten mal im WIKI nach der MIDI interface white- und blacklist. Da steht welche Interfaces definitiv gehen und welche nicht. Andere Frage - ist auf dem PIC schon der Bootloader drauf? Wenn nein, dann willst Du den erst mal brennen bevor Du was drauf spielen kannst.

Have a look in the source code - there's a setting for the button debouncing. Raise that until it works as expected.

Doepfer @ http://www.doepfer.de/home.htm

Ein wenig nicht ganz so prickelnd, dass Du da auch Samples von Microchip mitverkaufst...

...but but but, I already know about it ;)

Short answer: No. Long answer: Not really. Most of the settings that actually make the sound what it is are settings in the sound engine. And that is completely different for the MIDIbox SID. You could copy the basic settings (oscillator waveform, ADSR, ...) but that's about it.

Yes. There's also "Step B". Or whatever you come up with. This is DIY after all. You can always start with the full CS and remove what you don't want. They all affect the sound differently. Again, pick what you want. It would probably help a lot if you understood how the synthesis in the SID works. There's a schematic linked to from the CS pages on ucapps that shows you exactly how many you need for what. Yes. Yes. (again, that's all on ucapps.de) ;) If you want sound out of it - yes.

Switching the opto coupler and an eeprom will result in neither the bankstick nor the MIDI working, it shouldn't hurt either one of the ICs.

Nochmal am Rande: Wenn man die Opamps durch Rail-To-Rail Opamps ersetzt und die Widerstände anpasst (wie beim sammichFM), kann man sich das ganze Gewurschtel mit dem Dual-PSU sparen (siehe Anhang). opl_output.pdf

Glad you like the kit :) That should really not be the case. And I'm not exactly sure how that would happen. The current draw is typically at it's max when you power the sammich on, and your PSU might not like that. What do you mean by "all cables"? Removing the power should be enough.

[x] Patience is a virtue. Don't bump your threads after 10 hours. The people that typically answer your posts have lives, kids, wives, jobs, hobbies and friends as well. I just recompiled the hardsid.dll under Win 7 x64 and noticed that it does not seem to work with all players anymore. SIDPLAY2W for instance doesn't work anymore. Hopefully I'll find the time to look into it this weekend. Until then, have the latest version (hardsid.zip) and try that. You might want to try without the "aggressive timing" option :)

Which makes sense considering the load of an OLED depends mostly on the number of lit pixels, which can fluctuate quite heavily ;)

Vermutlich nicht.

Das sind alte Links von vorm dem letzten Update... Am einfachsten nimmst Du die ID und füllst die hier rin: http://www.midibox.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=ID_HIER http://www.midibox.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6542 Für diesen Thread hier also : http://www.midibox.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16663 http://www.midibox.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16663 und für Dein Beispiel: http://www.midibox.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6542 http://www.midibox.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6542 @TK können wir da mal ein UPDATE post SET pagetext = REPLACE(pagetext,'http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=','http://www.midibox.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=') machen?

Done :) Good luck with your thesis!

What Shuriken is getting at is "what PSU (rating) are you using"? ;)

Magic smoke is what makes the components work. If you let it out the components are dead. Some components on your sammichSID are now dead. Congratulations. Do not power it up again until you know what's wrong. Remove all ICs (SIDs, PIC, opto coupler, eeproms). Remove the CS PCB. Look for any traces of broken components (which left, btw? left as in west with the connectors facing north? oh and on which board? CS or vase?) or smoke residue. Find anything? Replace the part. When all that is done and looks good, check ALL voltages again as described in the build guide. All 5V good? Voltage for the SIDs good? Check the components around the backlight circuit next, make sure you got the right values in the right places (R3, R4, R4A, P1, T1). Report back. And remember: If there's smoke, don't start guessing and power things up again. There's been smoke for a reason.