nILS

Yep, sounds good. AFAIK the S&H should go ~0..5V (apparently 0.4V - 4.6V will do just fine, see sammich).

Just to keep my inbox from overflowing, here's what's gonna happen: a) Everyone who told TK, that he'd also like some gm5x5x5 is on a very secret list. TK will pass that very secret list on to me. b) I will then contact you AND post here IN THIS VERY THREAD, that I contacted everyone. c1) If you got contacted by me do whatever the PM/Email says to do. c2) If you didn't get anything from me AFTER I said I contacted everyone, THEN contact me either by mail or PM :thumbsup: EDIT: gm5x5x5 bulk order is starting NOW:

Sir, this is a german household, we don't lose files, sir :flowers:

I most certainly can. Have a schem :flowers: This is only for one of the YACs, the other one is identical. The DACs on the mbFM output a signal of 0..5V (what else could they do, they're powered by 5V). So it seemed only natural to simply buffer that signal and output it, rather than turn it into a bipolar signal (+-12V), which requires additional voltages. Since regular opamps can only have in/output voltages up to ~1.5V of their power rails, I went with a rail-to-rail amp, that lets the signal get very close to the rails. The voltage divider made up of R52/R56/R57 and R53/R58/R59 lowers the signal to roughly 0.4V - 4.6V, centered around 2.5V to prevent clipping. sammichFM_base_rev1_output.pdf

Yes and no. To voltage on the opamp limits the maximum input/output voltage they can reproduce without clipping the signal. If you simply lower the voltage from +-12V to +-5V you'll potentially clip 7V on either end of the signal. The resistors need to be adjusted, not to raise the gain, but to lower it.

Yes. You do wanna switch the opamps to some rail-to-rail opamps and adjust the gain set by the resistors. Or simply go with +5V only (like the sammichFM does).

Yes, you blowing up the PIC and having to wait for yet another part is the only drawback. Just like the only drawback of driving without a seatbelt is that you go flying out the window if you crash :-) I'd simply wait for the new opto.

I took the liberty of deleting 2 of your triple-posts.

Im Zweifelsfall gibt's hier noch ein paar schöne Erklärungen: http://www.kvraudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=263028&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=3eeac552377d97776a4cd2335cc73549 :flowers: Die Sache mit den Wavetables funktioniert fein, so lange man statische Wellenformen hat. Bei so ulkigen Sachen wie PWM wird's dann ein wenig ätzend. Für PWM ist ein anderer recht simpler Ansatz nur sehr kleine Wavetables für den Übergang von Low zu High zu haben, für verschiedene Frequenzen (mit entsprechender Anzahl von Obertönen), immer wenn eine Flanke kommt einfach statt 1 oder 0 den Übergang abfahren (vorwärts oder rückwärts, je nach Übergang). Damit ist die Phase natürlich leicht verzögert aber 16-32 Samples früher oder später ist in den meisten Fällen eher egal.

Nah it's ok, just remember for the next time :console:

Was erwartest Du denn an der Stelle noch? Hast Du dem mal ein bissel MIDI reingeschoben? Findet Dein PC das Ding? Fotos? Butter bei die Fische, dann können wir vielleicht helfen.

Meh for ebay linkage, don't promote your own auctions please.

Einfache, wenn auch kostenintensive Variante: Oversampling des Oszillators. Macht bei einem Rechteck schon ab 3x drastisch hörbare Unterschiede.

I would use 8581 or 6583. "Last, improved batch of SIDs ever produced!!!!!!!!!11111oneleven" :frantics:

Let's not start a holy war, please. Thanks. :flowers:

They're remarked. Wilba once got a batch of those: IIRC they worked and were ok, just really hard to tell what they actually are ;)

Heya alkex, noone said you stole the source or anything, no worries. It's just that Michael is a XXXXXX XXXXX of XXXXX that XXXXX XXXX XXXXXXXX XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX. At least that's my impression from the few hours I spent on the phone with him. :flowers:

Moved.

Yes.

"Proper" ftw :-)

Um ganz ehrlich zu sein: mich würde der - gemessen am allgemeinen Funktionsumfang des Synths - exorbitant hohe Preis des Display von 70+€ abschrecken. Hast Du über günstigere Alternativen (DOGXL oder so) nachgedacht?

The inverters buffer the signal, decoupling it from the sound card. Not having them may be a bad idea, if some hardware that you attach to it decides to pull a lot of current.

Merged.

Holy hell.